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johnwesely
Mar 14, 2012, 12:10 PM
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Registered: Jun 13, 2006
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Yesterday I was climbing at the Tierrany Roofs at the Obed and got my rope stuck. Yeah, I got my rope stuck on a steep sport climb. The weird thing is how the rope got stuck. My rope is new, so it still had the plastic sheath on the ends with the rope information. While my partner was pulling the rope form the free hanging end, the end of the rope wrapped around it self and cinched over the plastic tube on the second to last draw. The rope got hopelessly stuck. Even with the weight of three people, it wouldn't budge. Has this happened to anyone before?
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Rudmin
Mar 14, 2012, 1:02 PM
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no, but while pulling, I have had a rope tie itself into an overhand knot between the first and second draw. I've also had a rope wrap itself three times around a tree stump.
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shockabuku
Mar 14, 2012, 2:09 PM
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Registered: May 20, 2006
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Yep, happened to me once. It's amazing how much holding power that one inch, stiff piece of rope can create.
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cracklover
Mar 14, 2012, 4:29 PM
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I saw it happen, except the end was just flipped over a little plate of rock - about two inches long. Craziest thing. This was near the start of a long multipitch rappel in Red Rock. Lucky we were doing the same rappel as them, and were right after them. We were the only two parties in that whole canyon that day. When we got there, the two of them had been jumping up and down on the rope for an hour. All they had was their thin pull line, and the rappel didn't follow the route (or any route - it was a blank face, aside from one or two plates), and required two ropes. If we hadn't come along when we had it would've been a very cold and lonely night for the two of them. GO
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herites
Mar 14, 2012, 8:13 PM
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I regularly (1 in 8 or 10 times) have knot(s) in the rope when I pull it (not the remains of a tie-in knot) or uncoil it from a normal butterfly coil probably because it's a kinky beal edlinger, used on short cliffs (can't do a full length rap to get rid of the kinks) It even manages to knot itself after flaking it. Hopefully my new tendon rope will behave itself, no kinks and magic knots :)
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bearbreeder
Mar 14, 2012, 8:20 PM
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ive had weird things happen ... now i try to -keep the rope clean when pulling it ... not crossed over, not tangled -watch very carefully where the rope path will go ... away from cracks, horns, trees, etc ... - pull it very quickly when it nears the top and away from the wall ... less chance of getting caught if it runs clean
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Rudmin
Mar 15, 2012, 2:00 AM
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Registered: Mar 29, 2009
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I've had a friend tell me to pull really fast if it looks like it's going to fall down and coil on a ledge. Apparently the idea is that it's more likely to tie itself in a knot if the far end piles up on top of the pulling end.
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blogs
Mar 15, 2012, 12:11 PM
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Registered: Mar 15, 2012
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I've also had a rope wrap itself three times around a tree stump.
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timstich
Mar 22, 2012, 8:23 PM
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Registered: Feb 3, 2003
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I have had the very end of the rope somehow jam in the eye of the hanger on a welded shut while it was being pulled. I also had a rope get stuck in a crack by only a curl that didn't undo itself while the rope was being pulled. You see some crazy stuff eventually. Hopefully it won't happen on some heinous retreat in a storm. (It will!)
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majid_sabet
Mar 22, 2012, 11:16 PM
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Registered: Dec 13, 2002
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most importantly, never climb a stuck rope without proper belay and safety backup .
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