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majid_sabet


Apr 24, 2012, 12:03 AM
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Transitioning to outdoor and trad climbing
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In the past 10 years, number of accidents related to first time outdoor climbers or those with very low experience in outdoor climbing has significantly increased and I like to hear from you guys on what you think these problems are.

As one old-schooler told me " the previous generation knew WTF was going on but today's freshes are clueless on the wall".
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(This post was edited by majid_sabet on May 8, 2012, 5:25 AM)


lofstromc


Apr 24, 2012, 12:20 AM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Transitioning to oudoor and trad climbing [In reply to]
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I think the volume of people climbing has increased and is a big part of the question. I think it is compounded by the number of "classes" being offered.


justroberto


Apr 24, 2012, 3:49 AM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Transitioning to oudoor and trad climbing [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
In the past 10 years, number of accidents related to first time outdoor climbers or those with very low experience in outdoor climbing has significantly increased and I like to hear from you guys on what you think these problems are.

As one old-schooler told me " the previous generation knew WTF was going on but today's freshes are clueless on the wall".

Source?


majid_sabet


Apr 24, 2012, 3:56 AM
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justroberto wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
In the past 10 years, number of accidents related to first time outdoor climbers or those with very low experience in outdoor climbing has significantly increased and I like to hear from you guys on what you think these problems are.

As one old-schooler told me " the previous generation knew WTF was going on but today's freshes are clueless on the wall".

Source?


you don't read accident reports do you ?


danull16


Apr 24, 2012, 3:58 AM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Transitioning to oudoor and trad climbing [In reply to]
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i think part of it is the fact that many young climbers are "learning" from the internet, then thinking they can place protection and belay properly.

i've been climbing for 8 years, and learned a lot of basic information from the interweb. but i had a couple of good friends that are climbers that took me out before i started going on my own. but then again that was 8 years ago.


majid_sabet


Apr 24, 2012, 4:17 AM
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Re: [lofstromc] Transitioning to oudoor and trad climbing [In reply to]
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lofstromc wrote:
I think the volume of people climbing has increased and is a big part of the question. I think it is compounded by the number of "classes" being offered.

you have very valid point and I seen this problem often in gyms. obviously most gyms are not interested on offering anything educationally advanced or outdoorsy and they rather offer birthday party n00b events and make more money than a solid day of anchor class or how to prusik up alead rope etc.


majid_sabet


Apr 24, 2012, 4:19 AM
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danull16 wrote:
i think part of it is the fact that many young climbers are "learning" from the internet, then thinking they can place protection and belay properly.

i've been climbing for 8 years, and learned a lot of basic information from the interweb. but i had a couple of good friends that are climbers that took me out before i started going on my own. but then again that was 8 years ago.

give me some examples of what you learned in interweb vs outdoor and how is it differ .


danull16


Apr 24, 2012, 4:36 AM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Transitioning to oudoor and trad climbing [In reply to]
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i learned how to tie some knots. and basic belaying, and clipping from the interweb. but when i went with my friends i learned more in-depth. really i just researched that stuff to have some knowledge leading up to actual climbing.

the main point is seeing/reading something on the internet and then trying to put that into practice by yourself.

a specific example is the communication between climber and belayer. the "correct" language is "on belay, belay on...etc." but it reality, you and your partner have your own way of acknowledging readiness. to sound cliche, knowing something and practicing it are two different things.


shockabuku


Apr 24, 2012, 2:17 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Transitioning to oudoor and trad climbing [In reply to]
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One big difference is that when I learned to climb I started climbing outside and transitioned to the gym. I didn't have any significantly experienced mentors and I mostly learned from people with +/- a similar level of experience to myself as well as from books and trial and error.

What I didn't have when I started was the ability to climb 5.9 or 5.10 and put myself into a jam because my physical climbing skills and some prior experience in a much more safe and simple environment made me overconfident with regard to the potential dangers.

Though certainly I experienced my own share of luck in some rather foolish adventures.


olderic


Apr 24, 2012, 2:54 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Transitioning to oudoor and trad climbing [In reply to]
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In the past 10 years there has been an increasing tendency to rag on gym and sport climbers and blame them for pretty much everything that goes wrong. Why do you think that is? Could it be related to the fact that the sport climbers can typically climb circles around they nay sayers? Do you remember how the Appies preached that the Vulgarians were grossly inexperienced, unsafe and accidents waiting to happen? And coincidentally the Vulgarians could climb circles around the Appies.

In the past 10 years there has been an increasing tendency to misrepresent statistics and ignore simple things like accident rates and just use totals because it seems to make a point.

In the past 10 years ANAM has become increasingly marginalized in terms of overall statistics. It's still an excellent learning tool but to use it as a bible for overall accident statistics is hopeless.

In the past 10 years Majid's trolls have been getting weaker - running out of gas?


majid_sabet


Apr 24, 2012, 4:39 PM
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Re: [olderic] Transitioning to oudoor and trad climbing [In reply to]
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olderic wrote:
In the past 10 years there has been an increasing tendency to rag on gym and sport climbers and blame them for pretty much everything that goes wrong. Why do you think that is? Could it be related to the fact that the sport climbers can typically climb circles around they nay sayers? Do you remember how the Appies preached that the Vulgarians were grossly inexperienced, unsafe and accidents waiting to happen? And coincidentally the Vulgarians could climb circles around the Appies.

In the past 10 years there has been an increasing tendency to misrepresent statistics and ignore simple things like accident rates and just use totals because it seems to make a point.

In the past 10 years ANAM has become increasingly marginalized in terms of overall statistics. It's still an excellent learning tool but to use it as a bible for overall accident statistics is hopeless.

In the past 10 years Majid's trolls have been getting weaker - running out of gas?

my troll are getting weaker but name has been published in books here and there and that is scary.


bill413


Apr 24, 2012, 4:53 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Transitioning to oudoor and trad climbing [In reply to]
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I think olderic raises a valid point.

However

I do think gym climbers come outdoors without experience in setting up anchors, or even thinking about them very much. I know that when I'm in the gym I don't think a lot about them, after all, they're set up for us and are all the same.

Also, in a gym, because I'm standing right next to my partner at the start and end of the climb, we get lax about out belay signals. This does tend to carry over into outdoor settings with similar geometry.


wonderwoman


Apr 24, 2012, 5:02 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Transitioning to oudoor and trad climbing [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
justroberto wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
In the past 10 years, number of accidents related to first time outdoor climbers or those with very low experience in outdoor climbing has significantly increased and I like to hear from you guys on what you think these problems are.

As one old-schooler told me " the previous generation knew WTF was going on but today's freshes are clueless on the wall".

Source?


you don't read accident reports do you ?

I would like to know the source, too. I actually enjoy statistics (rather than accident reports) for some sick reason. If you have the source, please share.


JimTitt


Apr 24, 2012, 5:38 PM
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IŽd also like to see the statistical justification for your statement, we are seeing a general reduction in accidents per participant over the years in Europe but there is no breakdown of experience available. The impression I get from the accident reports over here is that is not particularly the beginners at risk and a quick trawl of the accident reports on RC.com also gives the overwhelming impression of a large proportion of experienced/very experienced climbers getting killed.


olderic


Apr 24, 2012, 5:57 PM
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bill413 wrote:
I think olderic raises a valid point.

However

I do think gym climbers come outdoors without experience in setting up anchors, or even thinking about them very much. I know that when I'm in the gym I don't think a lot about them, after all, they're set up for us and are all the same.

Also, in a gym, because I'm standing right next to my partner at the start and end of the climb, we get lax about out belay signals. This does tend to carry over into outdoor settings with similar geometry.

For sure there are some who when they emerge from the gym into the great outdoors have a swelled head from all the ego boosting gym grades - see some relatively low angled rock - figure "how hard can it be - it's only rated 5.X and I climb 5.2xX in the gym" - and launch themselves into trouble.

But I think far more typical is that they will come out with an overly nervous nelly approach - agonize over their anchor setup - get everyone within 3 counties to check it twice - post pictures on the Internet and ask for feed back etc. And never really become confident or comfortable trusting their own gear. Same scenario often transpires from those that started sport climbing and try and take up trad.

So I don't believe the accident RATE has increased at all and I think the accident volume is proportional to shear numbers.

In the old days (here goes the old guy on one of his pontifications again) when some one went out to learn to climb - the very first thing they did was set up an anchor. No biggie. Much more complex to learn to belay.


majid_sabet


Apr 24, 2012, 6:04 PM
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JimTitt wrote:
IŽd also like to see the statistical justification for your statement, we are seeing a general reduction in accidents per participant over the years in Europe but there is no breakdown of experience available. The impression I get from the accident reports over here is that is not particularly the beginners at risk and a quick trawl of the accident reports on RC.com also gives the overwhelming impression of a large proportion of experienced/very experienced climbers getting killed.

the reduction of accident can be caused by several factors, from lower number of participant to gaining more experience due to outdoor activities but but my question is mainly focusing on the early transitional period where text climbers (what you learn online/in gym etc) are beginning to explore the real world.


majid_sabet


Apr 24, 2012, 6:07 PM
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wonderwoman wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
justroberto wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
In the past 10 years, number of accidents related to first time outdoor climbers or those with very low experience in outdoor climbing has significantly increased and I like to hear from you guys on what you think these problems are.

As one old-schooler told me " the previous generation knew WTF was going on but today's freshes are clueless on the wall".

Source?


you don't read accident reports do you ?

I would like to know the source, too. I actually enjoy statistics (rather than accident reports) for some sick reason. If you have the source, please share.

The source is not in one place rather, 100s of reports I read per month from all over the world and in 12 years of me monitoring climbing accident, it does not take much to see where things are going.


wonderwoman


Apr 24, 2012, 6:21 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
wonderwoman wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
justroberto wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
In the past 10 years, number of accidents related to first time outdoor climbers or those with very low experience in outdoor climbing has significantly increased and I like to hear from you guys on what you think these problems are.

As one old-schooler told me " the previous generation knew WTF was going on but today's freshes are clueless on the wall".

Source?


you don't read accident reports do you ?

I would like to know the source, too. I actually enjoy statistics (rather than accident reports) for some sick reason. If you have the source, please share.

The source is not in one place rather, 100s of reports I read per month from all over the world and in 12 years of me monitoring climbing accident, it does not take much to see where things are going.

Sorry, that's not going to cut it. Show me the relationship. Show me significance.


JimTitt


Apr 24, 2012, 6:52 PM
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wonderwoman wrote:

Sorry, that's not going to cut it. Show me the relationship. Show me significance.

Like the lady says.
Can you justify your statement or not?


majid_sabet


Apr 24, 2012, 8:32 PM
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JimTitt wrote:
wonderwoman wrote:

Sorry, that's not going to cut it. Show me the relationship. Show me significance.

Like the lady says.
Can you justify your statement or not?

I have my own records and you guys are welcome to go back to I&A and review 10 years of accident postings and come up with your own analysis.


mojomonkey


Apr 24, 2012, 8:39 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
JimTitt wrote:
wonderwoman wrote:

Sorry, that's not going to cut it. Show me the relationship. Show me significance.

Like the lady says.
Can you justify your statement or not?

I have my own records and you guys are welcome to go back to I&A and review 10 years of accident postings and come up with your own analysis.

Translation: "No"


shotwell


Apr 24, 2012, 8:47 PM
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mojomonkey wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
JimTitt wrote:
wonderwoman wrote:

Sorry, that's not going to cut it. Show me the relationship. Show me significance.

Like the lady says.
Can you justify your statement or not?

I have my own records and you guys are welcome to go back to I&A and review 10 years of accident postings and come up with your own analysis.

Translation: "No"

Tell Sungam to bring in the ponies, there is nothing else to see here!


healyje


Apr 24, 2012, 8:48 PM
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JimTitt wrote:
IŽd also like to see the statistical justification for your statement, we are seeing a general reduction in accidents per participant over the years in Europe but there is no breakdown of experience available.

What's the sport / trad ratio in Europe? Maybe you just don't have much trad climbing going on as a percentage of the total demographic.

Sport climbers crossing over to trad are far and away the scariest thing I see out climbing these days.


JimTitt


Apr 24, 2012, 9:33 PM
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mojomonkey wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
JimTitt wrote:
wonderwoman wrote:

Sorry, that's not going to cut it. Show me the relationship. Show me significance.

Like the lady says.
Can you justify your statement or not?

I have my own records and you guys are welcome to go back to I&A and review 10 years of accident postings and come up with your own analysis.

Translation: "No"

I read it that way as well.


Partner rgold


Apr 26, 2012, 12:04 AM
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I seriously doubt Magid had statistics that contain clear information about the experience background of the victims.

As for Jim's observations about a decrease in accidents/participants in Europe, that might very well be due to the enormous growth of sport and plaisir climbing in Europe, which one would expect to increase the denominator without a corresponding effect on the numerator.

Old Eric thinks that folks who perceive differences between current practices and what happened BITD are just bitter old-timers pissed that they have been eclipsed by the younger generation.

Two observations about that. The first is that a whole bunch of climbing generations followed the Vulgarian era, and I don't think there was even a hint of O.E.'s predicted outcry from those older generations, who were also definitively surpassed by the youngsters.

I'm not speaking just about the Vulgarians here. The country went through a gear revolution and and least two trad climbing grades and there was no bitter grumbling from the elders of the tribe. A number of them (Jim McCarthy comes to mind), enthusiastically "apprenticed" themselves to the younger generation to learn whatever they could from the next wave. The Appies were a very different phenomenon and nothing like them has appeared since.

Having a younger generation perform circles around you comes with the territory of aging in every sport. By and large, the elder generation mouths off about real issues, and dismissing the entirety of it as the self-serving mutterings of has-beens is a useful way for younger folks to act rebellious (and so extend their learning curves about some aspects of the sport---ha, they sure showed us!) But O.E should know better than to use that sort of argument, already noted as fallacious, since he may be rebellious but he ain't no youth.

The second observation is that the younger generation doesn't and cannot have the experience of their elders and so are not in a position to make comparisons with former times even if they wanted to. The only people who can speak about the differences between now and BITD are the people who were around BITD. If we took O.E. seriously, those voices would be automatically excluded as being nothing more than self-serving, which would leave us with...nothing.

So, statistics aside, most of us old folks can see real differences in the way people come to trad climbing, and some of those differences surely increase the danger level for transitioning climbers.

1. Shockabu has already mentioned one condition: brand-new trad climbers can now have a very high level of climbing skill, so that their climbing and gear skills are hugely out of sync, instead of developing together as they did BITD.

2. Sport and gym climbing is generally low-risk climbing, and so fosters attitudes about falling that are appropriate for those disciplines but are not right for trad climbing. I think a beginning trad climber shouldn't be taking leader falls for the first three or four years of their trad career. Ha! How likely is that nowadays?

3. "Attitudes about falling" doesn't really describe all the issues. Sport and gym climbing teaches that all problems are solved by moving up. An experienced trad climber faced with difficulties is going to have a more sinusoidal elevation function. Sport and gym climbing also doesn't inculcate any of the self-discipline needed to hang on and get in gear in difficult spots. It might take climbing with an experienced trad climber to even realize what the appropriate practices are.

4. Cams have made things much easier for sure, but there are still many subtleties about placements, at least in areas not dominated by parallel-sided splitters. Just stuffing a cam in a crack and tugging on it a little doesn't mean you have reliable protection, most especially in the smaller sizes. Bolted climbing conditions climbers to thinking in terms of a discrete set of protection points, but hard trad may require clusters of gear in order to obtain enough redundancy to be secure.

5. In addition to anchors, there is a whole collection of issues involved in protecting the second and eliminating rope drag, things that aren't on the radar of sport and gym climbers at all.

A year or two ago I did a climb with someone who can climb circles around me, but who didn't place a piece before easy climbing left to a belay, and so left me, the second on that pitch, with a pendulum that would have ended in a very serious ledge fall. Experience on dangerously run-out climbs (something I had assumed was behind me at this late stage of my career) came in handy as I had to essentially solo the finishing vertical section. There was no accident that day, no thanks to my circle-climbing partner.

I'm sure there is more to be said. The main point is that there is a lot to learn and some things actually working against climbers who are already physically skillful but who are making the transition to trad. My observation, since we are all dealing with unsupported generalizations, is that many of these climbers go from being fearful about everything to a sense of confidence that is far from justified.

I have no idea whether the problems confronting transitioning climbers are detectable in accident stats, but anyone who says these issues are not a concern for beginning trad climbers does a substantial disservice to that group.

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