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jkjared
May 6, 2012, 5:54 PM
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Hello all.
ive got an odd question for yall.
trad climbing at ralphstover (high rocks) what should i rack? and if i want to sport, how many draws?
Thanks!
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jkjared
May 6, 2012, 6:53 PM
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18 people have seen this, none of you have answers! cooooome on!
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climbingaggie03
May 6, 2012, 8:53 PM
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I don't even know what country this crag is in. Maybe more info? or posting in the local forum, instead of the trad climbing forum? You also might specify which routes you're thinking of, as the beta you're asking for can be route dependent.
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jkjared
May 6, 2012, 11:54 PM
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ralph stover ny, usa. for any of the climbs 5.8 and up. ive never been there. dont know which routes i might be doing. im going on a trip there in a couple weeks. just thought some one might know a little more than i did.
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tomcat
May 7, 2012, 12:00 AM
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Almost every sportish route at Stover can be done with six draws. The exception would be The Problem, or perhaps Man of Science, but either of these are short.
For Trad gear I don't think you need anything more than a yellow C4.
All these routes were in place before small cams, so you have it good.
It's in Pennsylvania...
(This post was edited by tomcat on May 7, 2012, 12:02 AM)
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jkjared
May 7, 2012, 12:24 AM
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short draws? or shoulders. how small in cams should i go? ive got a sweet hook up for cheap used cams, so i can get anything really.
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tomcat
May 7, 2012, 12:26 AM
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Shoulders are runners with me. For sport as mentioned, for trad yes take some over the shoulder.
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jkjared
May 7, 2012, 12:29 AM
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are nuts hexs or tricams useful at all in ralph stover?
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tomcat
May 7, 2012, 1:17 AM
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I only carry tricams when I think I may encounter crucial solution pockets, typically slab climbing.Of course they would work there.
Almost everything there was either climbed on stoppers and hexes, or bolted since the FA.
(This post was edited by tomcat on May 7, 2012, 1:21 AM)
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gblauer
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May 7, 2012, 2:17 AM
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pick you climbs wisely. The rock is soft and can re-model if you fall on a piece of gear.
Personally, I would not trad climb at Stover. Rock quality is too suspect.
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jkjared
May 7, 2012, 2:34 AM
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ive heard there are some decent sport climbs there. do you know anything about em? bolted, pined? as far as trad climbing. i would be top roped at the same time. im new to the world of trad.
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gblauer
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May 7, 2012, 2:41 AM
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Yes, you can mock lead at Stover. But, you really can't test your gear placements because the rock can be really soft.
I think you should go to the gunks, hire a guide service and learn how to place gear. Then practice a ton. You can go to gunks and place gear within 5 feet of the ground, bounce test it etc. Stover is not the greatest place to learn.
I don't remember if there are bolted routes, I haven't been there in years. I really don't like the rock at RS.
There is sport climbing at Birdsboro. It's an old quarry, the rock can be a bit suspect there as well. Lots of bolted lines from 5.3 to 5.14. You have to lead, as there is really no top rope access.
(This post was edited by gblauer on May 7, 2012, 2:43 AM)
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Kartessa
May 7, 2012, 7:27 AM
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All the information that you seek can often be found in guidebook.
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Kartessa
May 7, 2012, 7:29 AM
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jkjared wrote: short draws? or shoulders. how small in cams should i go? ive got a sweet hook up for cheap used cams, so i can get anything really.
This post says it all for me. YGD
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tomcat
May 7, 2012, 11:22 AM
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LOL...I have fallen on a lot of gear there and never had any rock fail or "remodel". I have done several new routes that involved remodeling
It is not the easiest place to learn to lead.
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sp00ki
Jun 5, 2012, 4:30 PM
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You should buy the guidebook. It's only twenty bucks and answers these questions and more.
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toeknee
Jun 16, 2012, 12:43 AM
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Here's a link to order the latest guide book, in case you didn't see it in the area description on this site.
http://www.lulu.com/shop/paul-nick/climb-high-rocks-state-park/paperback/product-15375095.html
There are only a handful of sport routes. There are a couple routes with a bolt or two that, if led, are usually mixed trad/sport. The trad leading isn't that great anyway, most folks TR there. Watch out for the poison ivy - it grows everywhere.
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woodthrush
Aug 28, 2012, 6:40 PM
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I think you should go to the gunks, hire a guide service and learn how to place gear. Then practice a ton. You can go to gunks and place gear within 5 feet of the ground, bounce test it etc. Stover is not the greatest place to learn.
In reply to: I agree... Also set up a TR at Stover first so you can see for yourself what everyone's saying about the rock quality. It's slippery and polished on many climbs, so you may want a lot more lead experience before leading there. Practice leading first at the Gunks, or even the Water Gap.
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trisgo
Sep 24, 2012, 3:03 AM
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When on the forum, I was surprised to see High Rocks on there. I'm originaly from Hopewell NJ and that was the first place I ever climbed outside. I've since climbed all around the country, but High Rocks (in PA) will always hold a place in my heart, lol.
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