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jo247
Nov 8, 2012, 10:09 PM
Post #1 of 3
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Registered: Oct 6, 2010
Posts: 30
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Hi guys,
I'm new to bigwall climbing, and I'm still learning new stuff pretty much every day. All help is appreciated. I have this question about docking your bags to the anchor. Here it goes:
let's say I have only 1 single haul bag clipped to my haul line, and I just finished hauling that bag. Easy stuff : I dock it using a munter hitch, locked with a mule knot, backed with an overhand knot. And then, I simply put weight on my ascenders, in order to release the Microtraxion above it, so all the loads goes into my second chord (with the munter hitch and everything).
I got this part covered and visualised, it's alright.
However, what am I supposed to do if I have 2 others bags (a second bag + a portaledge) clipped UNDER my first bag? What am I supposed to do with these guys? What's the best way to dock them directly to the anchor, so they rest right next to my first bag?
I can't seem to get this straight..!
Thanks a lot you guys, your help is really, really appreciated !
Cheers!
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majid_sabet
Nov 8, 2012, 10:37 PM
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Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 8390
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jo247 wrote: Hi guys, I'm new to bigwall climbing, and I'm still learning new stuff pretty much every day. All help is appreciated. I have this question about docking your bags to the anchor. Here it goes: let's say I have only 1 single haul bag clipped to my haul line, and I just finished hauling that bag. Easy stuff : I dock it using a munter hitch, locked with a mule knot, backed with an overhand knot. And then, I simply put weight on my ascenders, in order to release the Microtraxion above it, so all the loads goes into my second chord (with the munter hitch and everything). I got this part covered and visualised, it's alright. However, what am I supposed to do if I have 2 others bags (a second bag + a portaledge) clipped UNDER my first bag? What am I supposed to do with these guys? What's the best way to dock them directly to the anchor, so they rest right next to my first bag? I can't seem to get this straight..! Thanks a lot you guys, your help is really, really appreciated ! Cheers!
you create a master haul point with 2-3 uneven short cord and they hang from the master point. once one bag is up, you clip it to anchor then you pull the next one up and so fort. Whatever you do, never jug a haul line with mini or protraxion loaded on top.
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Mark_Hudon
Nov 10, 2012, 1:10 AM
Post #3 of 3
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Registered: Jan 6, 2010
Posts: 82
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The only thing I ever clip to the bottom of my haul bag is slag gear I'll never need, gear I pull off the route for example. My portaledge bag, Waste Case, Gear bag, Day bag, all hang from Tether cords. Those bags hang below the haul bags with the tops of their tether cords all clipped to the Main Haul Bag Biner.
Dock your haul bags as you describe (Your technique is good but I think I have a better way) and then when you need your ledge, waste case, day bag or gear bag, simply pull them up, get what you need and drop them back down.
Clipping stuff to the bottom of your haul bags will pull them tight and make them hard to unpack and real hard to pack.
I pretty much always go with two haul bags. With a partner, each person has his own bag and they hang side by side. When I'm soloing, I usually have a Metolius Half Dome and one of their smaller bags, usually a Quarter Dome. From there, in each case, I have my ledge, waste case, garbage and gear bags tethered below. It's a lot less clustery than you would think, although for a lower angle route, the Salathe, Nose, etc, I might try to have less bags tethered.
Go to my site http://www.elcappanos.com and download the "All things Haul Bag" tips sheet. I have a few other tricks in there that you might like.
(This post was edited by Mark_Hudon on Nov 10, 2012, 1:21 AM)
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