|
lyczek
Nov 7, 2012, 2:36 PM
Post #1 of 11
(2442 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 7, 2012
Posts: 3
|
Hi,
I was recently training on a new indoor climbing wall in Berlin. It's a huge wall which is completely new to me.
I spend a lot of time asking local climbers to get to now the routes. How do you deal with this? The same thing goes for the outdoor, I always spend so much time to correctly read the topo. Do you have any tips how to deal with it?
|
|
|
|
|
kennoyce
Nov 7, 2012, 3:54 PM
Post #2 of 11
(2405 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2001
Posts: 1338
|
lyczek wrote: Hi, I was recently training on a new indoor climbing wall in Berlin. It's a huge wall which is completely new to me. I spend a lot of time asking local climbers to get to now the routes. How do you deal with this? The same thing goes for the outdoor, I always spend so much time to correctly read the topo. Do you have any tips how to deal with it?
Not quite sure that I understand your question, but in gyms in Europe, you just follow all of the same colored holds, in the US you generally follow the same color of tape. Outside, you just climb (generally it works well to follow the chalk if it's a popular climbing area).
|
|
|
|
|
lyczek
Nov 7, 2012, 4:03 PM
Post #3 of 11
(2399 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 7, 2012
Posts: 3
|
Thank you for your reply.
When I go climbing outside where is a lot of routes and sometimes confused. I'm not always sure if I follow the original concept of the author. Sometimes I'm not sure about particular hold or crack. Mostly because topos are not to good.
In the gym after a while I know most of the routes. When it happens I start to set my own with my friends (mostly for boulders). But we have a problem of sharing them. We use photos with annotations. You know better tools?
I hope this time I made myself more clear.
|
|
|
|
|
budman
Nov 7, 2012, 4:27 PM
Post #4 of 11
(2372 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 170
|
A famous climber once was quoted as saying, nothing defines the line of a climb more than a crack. If it is harder than what the route depicts then possibly your off route. But not always, grades are subjective. Chalk, bolts, booty gear, shit, pee bottles, etc. are signs that the route might go this way, but not always. You might do the route differently because not all climbers climb the same route in the same way, people differ. One fact remains that almost all routes lead to fun. So if your having fun your probably on route.
|
|
|
|
|
herites
Nov 7, 2012, 4:51 PM
Post #5 of 11
(2346 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2011
Posts: 210
|
If you can reach the bolts with your hand, then you're on the route, in my opinion.
|
|
|
|
|
kennoyce
Nov 7, 2012, 5:12 PM
Post #6 of 11
(2330 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2001
Posts: 1338
|
lyczek wrote: Thank you for your reply. When I go climbing outside where is a lot of routes and sometimes confused. I'm not always sure if I follow the original concept of the author. Sometimes I'm not sure about particular hold or crack. Mostly because topos are not to good. In the gym after a while I know most of the routes. When it happens I start to set my own with my friends (mostly for boulders). But we have a problem of sharing them. We use photos with annotations. You know better tools? I hope this time I made myself more clear.
It sounds like you are trying to climb outside like you would in the gym. Outside, as long as you can reach all of the protection (i.e. bolts, or cracks where you are supposed to place pro) you are on route. there are no holds or cracks that are off route unless the line is an eliminate (and the guide will tell you this).
Since you're from Germany lets take Action Direct in the Frankenjura as an example. Wolfgang Gullich did the first ascent of the route using a 16 move sequence, later, several other climbers did the same route using an 11 move sequence. Just because these other climbers didn't use the same sequence or holds as the FA doesn't mean that they didn't climb the route.
As far as making up your own boulder problems at the gym goes, I'd think that photos with annotations would be the best way of doing it.
|
|
|
|
|
jomagam
Nov 7, 2012, 9:12 PM
Post #7 of 11
(2273 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2008
Posts: 364
|
herites wrote: If you can reach the bolts with your hand, then you're on the route, in my opinion.
Except I've been to areas where you can reach bolts on 3 different routes. I hate that.
|
|
|
|
|
lyczek
Nov 9, 2012, 11:29 AM
Post #8 of 11
(2178 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 7, 2012
Posts: 3
|
When I see this mess:
I think of an app which could help, something like this:
What do you think?
(This post was edited by lyczek on Nov 9, 2012, 12:28 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
budman
Nov 9, 2012, 4:38 PM
Post #9 of 11
(2121 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 170
|
Were you climbing some of Magic Ed's routes in The Potrero?
|
|
|
|
|
jomagam
Nov 9, 2012, 4:39 PM
Post #10 of 11
(2119 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2008
Posts: 364
|
budman wrote: Were you climbing some of Magic Ed's routes in The Potrero?
Nope, that was in Croatia.
|
|
|
|
|
marc801
Nov 9, 2012, 5:24 PM
Post #11 of 11
(2109 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2806
|
lyczek wrote: When I see this mess: [image]http://western.edu/student-life/fitness-center/copy2_of_copy_of_IMG_6688.JPG[/image] I think of an app which could help, something like this: [image]http://i.imgur.com/BsRoH.png[/image] What do you think?
|
|
|
|
|
|
