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cracklover
Dec 21, 2012, 5:47 PM
Post #28 of 42
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hyhuu wrote: Since I started climbing in 2000, I touched the real rocks the least number of times in 2012 due to kids, works and deadth in the family. I think I got outside may be 6 times and 5 of those were just day trip. The only one of note worthy was a 1 week long, first time trip to Yosemite. It was my first time experiencing big-wall climbing. I had 5 days to climb and somehow we managed to climb Half-Dome Regular NWF and Washington Column - The Prowl. It was quite an amazing experience. 2013 is reserved for the Nose.
Two walls in five days is a pretty sweet highlight for the year. Especially for a very first experience wall climbing! With how little time you have, did you hire a guide, or do you have a wall partner? Anyway, good luck on the Nose in 2013! From what I've seen of it, it's way worthy.
GO
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cracklover
Dec 21, 2012, 5:51 PM
Post #29 of 42
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gblauer wrote: A solid year for me. My husband is injured so he was unable to climb with me all year. I love climbing with him and it's hard to not have him as a partner.
I remember reading about that when it happened. How's he doing now?
In reply to: I lead my first gunks 10 and I hope it will help me develop the confidence to lead many more.
That's a huge step up, congrats! C'mon, spray a little - which one? And which ones are you salivating over for next year?
In reply to: Goals for next year: I want to grow my confidence so that it is equal to my physical climbing ability. It's time to regularly take on greater challenges.
You go girl! Sounds like you've come to some workable detente with the feet. Good to hear.
Cheers!
GO
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cracklover
Dec 21, 2012, 5:55 PM
Post #30 of 42
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blueeyedclimber wrote: I was gonna say, "Hey, this is my job!" But you linked mine so I guess I'll let you have it this year 
Yeah, but I think I might've been the year before. Tag team.
In reply to: As far as next year goes, I am not sure what that will bring, so I hesitate to commit to any goals, except to try to climb as much as possible. Josh
Well let's make sure you and I (and Tiff and Allison) at least get together once this year. So far, we're one for one for ticking off great climbs (descents notwithstanding). I'm ready to hop back on that send train!
GO
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cracklover
Dec 21, 2012, 6:00 PM
Post #31 of 42
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
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wonderwoman wrote: I finished grad school, which allowed me to start climbing again. Then I went to Thailand.
Those are both awesome right there!
In reply to: Despite being out of climbing shape, I managed to onsight my hardest sport route and redpoint my hardest trad this year. That's something, I suppose.
Nice! With the training all winter, you'll be unstoppable come spring. Just stay healthy!
Hope to climb with you and Josh in 2013 - it's always fun.
GO
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cracklover
Dec 21, 2012, 6:03 PM
Post #32 of 42
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Edge, 21 FAs, and all that development at Longstack is really awesome. Talk about leaving New England on a high note!
Hope to hook up with you guys out here. I still owe you one for your loan when I did The Prow.
GO
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cracklover
Dec 21, 2012, 6:19 PM
Post #34 of 42
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camhead wrote: Thanks for starting this thread, Cracklover, ad strong work on Quarter of a Man! These end-of-the-year reports always get me psyched to keep training and climbing more.
You mean give you a guilt-free opportunity to spray? You're welcome. ;) And yeah, I was super-psyched on QoaM. For guys with big hands, that thing can be just brutal.
In reply to: The area I was living at (Torrey, UT) was surrounded by amazing Wingate on all sides, and unlike a lot of Wingate, was nice and cool throughout a lot of the summer. Unfortunately, I had a VERY hard time finding partners. <snip> Can't wait to get back to that area to do more.
If our schedules line up and you're back out here, I'd love to check it out. Andrew can vouch for me, I'm not nearly as annoying in real life as I am here. Desert splitters you can climb in the summer sounds almost too good to be true.
Sorry about the foot. Hope it heals well, and speedily.
GO
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Dip
Dec 21, 2012, 6:20 PM
Post #35 of 42
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Registered: Jun 16, 2009
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cracklover wrote: Dip, sounds like a fantastic year! Dip wrote: And so help me god I will not injure any more fingers! Okay the last one is probably a pipe dream but it can't hurt to be optimistic. Finger injuries suck. I'm finally fully recovered from a pulley rupture (and another partial) last year. May we all be done with them forever. Please? GO
Dude i know. I hurt my right ring finger in april. Literally one day after it was fully recovered i did the same thing to my left middle. At that point all i could was laugh. I mean i could've probably cried but a grown man crying is unsightly. Seems to be steep plastic that does it to me.
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cracklover
Dec 21, 2012, 6:23 PM
Post #36 of 42
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
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Andrew, much as I miss you, it sounds like moving back to Utah has been awesome (no surprise for you there, I'm sure).
atg200 wrote: I got my first ever gym membership at a bouldering gym in SLC, and aside from the summer months i've gone consistently 2-3 times a week. Consequently i'm in better shape and climbing better than I ever have before. I've been guily of being satisfied leading 5.8 and 5.9 and pushing it by just doing very long routes, high altitude peaks, and big walls over the years. I'm now getting motivated more by pushing climbing difficulty. Starting to lead 5.10 now, and hope to push into 5.11 by the end of next year. Its really made me change my entire approach to climbing, which is difficult but healthy after so many years.
Holy crap! Good for you!
GO
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cracklover
Dec 21, 2012, 6:56 PM
Post #37 of 42
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Dip wrote: cracklover wrote: Dip, sounds like a fantastic year! Dip wrote: And so help me god I will not injure any more fingers! Okay the last one is probably a pipe dream but it can't hurt to be optimistic. Finger injuries suck. I'm finally fully recovered from a pulley rupture (and another partial) last year. May we all be done with them forever. Please? GO Dude i know. I hurt my right ring finger in april. Literally one day after it was fully recovered i did the same thing to my left middle. At that point all i could was laugh. I mean i could've probably cried but a grown man crying is unsightly. Seems to be steep plastic that does it to me.
Ouch. Hard crimps in awkward (and steep) positions seem to be a roll of the dice for me. I've started a training regimen on the campus board. Yes I hope to get stronger, but the real reason is that I hope to (almost) never have to crimp again.
GO
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hyhuu
Dec 21, 2012, 7:43 PM
Post #38 of 42
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Registered: Jul 25, 2001
Posts: 492
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cracklover wrote: hyhuu wrote: Since I started climbing in 2000, I touched the real rocks the least number of times in 2012 due to kids, works and deadth in the family. I think I got outside may be 6 times and 5 of those were just day trip. The only one of note worthy was a 1 week long, first time trip to Yosemite. It was my first time experiencing big-wall climbing. I had 5 days to climb and somehow we managed to climb Half-Dome Regular NWF and Washington Column - The Prowl. It was quite an amazing experience. 2013 is reserved for the Nose. Two walls in five days is a pretty sweet highlight for the year. Especially for a very first experience wall climbing! With how little time you have, did you hire a guide, or do you have a wall partner? Anyway, good luck on the Nose in 2013! From what I've seen of it, it's way worthy. GO
I did the walls with 2 friends. Even though we know each other for a number of years, we never actually climb together as party of 3 let alone doing a big wall. We didn't even practice together except for a brief of exchange on emails about how we'll climb as a team. The first day, we were soooo slow but things went much better after. I can't wait until next year.
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shotwell
Dec 22, 2012, 4:34 AM
Post #39 of 42
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Registered: Jan 6, 2009
Posts: 366
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cracklover wrote: Dip wrote: cracklover wrote: Dip, sounds like a fantastic year! Dip wrote: And so help me god I will not injure any more fingers! Okay the last one is probably a pipe dream but it can't hurt to be optimistic. Finger injuries suck. I'm finally fully recovered from a pulley rupture (and another partial) last year. May we all be done with them forever. Please? GO Dude i know. I hurt my right ring finger in april. Literally one day after it was fully recovered i did the same thing to my left middle. At that point all i could was laugh. I mean i could've probably cried but a grown man crying is unsightly. Seems to be steep plastic that does it to me. Ouch. Hard crimps in awkward (and steep) positions seem to be a roll of the dice for me. I've started a training regimen on the campus board. Yes I hope to get stronger, but the real reason is that I hope to (almost) never have to crimp again. GO
Just stop crimping. Climb everything with an open hand and accept the step back for a few months. You can be just as strong on open hand edges pretty quickly, though you will probably need the half crimp still. Nicole gave up crimping at the start of the fall season and now finds it more secure. You have to learn to trust it more than anything.
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dagibbs
Dec 23, 2012, 1:44 PM
Post #40 of 42
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Registered: Oct 1, 2007
Posts: 921
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cracklover wrote: dagibbs wrote: How can I post a year-in-review? I'm currently in Las Vegas, I climbed Birdland 2 days ago, and I'm heading to Joshua Tree next week! Okay then, hope you send lots, and report back on all your crushage in a few days! GO
It's been a pretty big year for me. 73 days of outdoor climbing, and I don't count or log gym days. First day of local (Ottawa, Ontario, Canada) climbing was March 31st, and last day of local was November 17th -- so that's a long season for Ottawa.
I've done two major trips -- the first in March for 2 weeks in El Potrero Chico, and the 2nd just ending now, to Red Rocks and Joshua Tree. I've also done my first trip to Rumney -- I spent three long weekends in New Hampshire, mostly climbing at Rumney, but also getting a couple days in at Whitehorse Ledge. I also did a trip to Thunder Bay, Ontario which included some climbing at Crags up that way, too.
New crags this year: Rumeny, Whitehorse Ledge, Red Rocks, Joshua Tree, Urban Crag (Las Vegas limestone), Gun Club Crag (Las Vegas limestone), Keyhole Canyon (Las Vegas granite), Mount Doom (Sudbury, ON), Mt Helen (Thunder Bay), Pass Lake (Thunder Bay).
I've also continue development on a small crag near Ottawa, Lac Sam. Scrubbing granite of moss and lichen, trundling rocks, and all that sort of exciting, dirty, work.
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ChalkIsCheap
Dec 23, 2012, 6:37 PM
Post #41 of 42
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Registered: Oct 27, 2010
Posts: 93
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This year was a pretty bad year. My fiancee spent the whole summer in Toronto working and every free weekend we had was completely booked up so we managed to get out only a dozen or so times.
I looked at my log book from work that I wrote down any climbing event that I remembered to log. Made it to our first Multi-pitch granite climb in June at Bon Echo, nothing in July or August, got out a lot in September, once in October on the only good day of weather (luckily) to propose to my girlfriend at the top of a climb at Rattlesnake Point, and a few times in November. Not bad actually considering our busy schedule this year and all the bad weather on the days that we were free.
This year was mostly dedicated on learning new skills. I spent a lot of time placing gear and climbing at slightly easier grades to get my placements down. Climbing easy polished limestone is actually harder then climbing harder graded routes as they aren't as slippery from traffic. I spent so much time climbing easy trad that I forgot what it was like to climb harder sport routes. The weekend that we made it to The Swamp I forgot that I could actually do 10's and 11's on sport.
This year I am in the worst shape I have been in a while and next year I am going to train much more and dedicate more time to climbing outdoors. I am gaining more confidence leading on gear and will hopefully get out on the ice this year. Then at least I can climb more then just the summer months. My on call schedule no longer conflicts with good weekends and are planning a trip to Red Rocks for March break.
Everything looks like it will be lining up this year, I now have a gym built in my basement and I am going to whip myself into shape and project some harder grades. My fiancee is getting her lead head back on and gaining much more confidence on the rocks. I feel much more confident taking on harder projects with just her. 2013 is going to rock!
Kevin
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robdotcalm
Jan 24, 2013, 7:05 PM
Post #42 of 42
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Registered: Oct 31, 2002
Posts: 1027
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As usual I begin by mentioning that at 82, I most proud that I’m still walking. I had 53 days of outdoor climbing and a small number of gym days in 2012. It felt good for a change to be climbing stronger at the end of the season than at the beginning. I didn’t take any trips in this year mostly because of family obligations (all those grandkids) and a trivial muscle pull in the thigh that kept me from climbing for a couple of weeks. I have a sense of spiritual gratitude that I’m still able to climb.
My partner Ben and I established a first ascent, Barbed Wire at Vedauwoo, which as you can note from my description will probably see few second ascents (to get through the last part of it, I had to remove all my gear, except for the harness, attach a sling to the gear and pull it up when I got to the top). Details at:
http://www.mountainproject.com/...playground/105972860
At this site, you can see Day of Wrath, which we established in 2011 and finally got around to posting. The story of the non-existent swastika can be found there along with some disparaging remarks mostly about me. It’s like Hollywood, I don’t care what they say as long as they spell my name right. Anyway, at my age, there is a perverse pleasure in stirring up controversy. Note that Vedauwoo work days require some heavy lifting
http://www.mountainproject.com/...-6-cam-/107760078__3
My most exciting adventure was having to down climb the East Slabs at Eldorado on a night with no moonlight and our not having headlamps. Come up with all your dumb reasons for getting so late on an easy 6 pitch climb, which I’ve climbed several times before, and my partner and I (60 years combined experience) probably made all of them.
I hope to get a few trips in this year, and my partners and I have will attempt a couple of lines we started working on last year. Otherwise, it’ll be weight lifting and hiking with my wife, trying to avoid injuries and to postpone the inevitable stigmata of aging.
Gratias et valete bene!
RobertusPunctumPacificus
(This post was edited by robdotcalm on Jan 24, 2013, 7:07 PM)
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