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repete
Jan 10, 2003, 12:43 AM
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What is the difference between offset and regular nuts? What are some examples? What are the advantages and disadvantages of both?
[ This Message was edited by: repete on 2003-01-09 16:44 ]
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jt512
Jan 10, 2003, 2:03 AM
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When I was a kid and asked a question whose answer I could figure out on my own, my mother would always, say, "What do you think, Jay?". So, in this case, I'm going to borrow the tactic handed down from my mom and ask, "What do you think, Repete?".
-Jay
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yossarian
Jan 10, 2003, 2:08 AM
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I agree with you in full. This information could have been found through a simple google search, or even better, a small dose of common sense. There IS such a thing as a dumb question.
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rprp
Jan 10, 2003, 2:59 AM
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Right you are.
But if he had asked if we use them....
I own some, I see placements for them on the rock, but at the start of the climb when I'm loading up on too much gear and looking for something to cut, the offsets get cut. Unless I know that the climb really kind of needs them.
[ This Message was edited by: rprp on 2003-01-09 19:00 ]
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jt512
Jan 10, 2003, 3:02 AM
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It depends on where I'm climbing. At J Tree, offsets are generally the only nuts I carry.
-Jay
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holdplease2
Jan 10, 2003, 5:55 AM
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I find offsets perplexing. I have some, but, well, lets just say they are still pretty shiney and new looking. For where I climb, give me good 'ole stoppers ANYTIME!
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milesdesbrie
Jan 10, 2003, 6:18 AM
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I bought my HB Offsets for aid climbing but find I use them a lot in trad climbing too. They're the sh*t for pin scars and flaring cracks.
[ This Message was edited by: milesdesbrie on 2003-01-09 22:19 ]
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epic_ed
Jan 10, 2003, 6:27 AM
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Tough crowd tonight. It is better to see them than try to describe, but I bought a set after climbing in Yosemite last year. My partner had a set and they were ETS for the flaring pin scars. The bonus is, I've found they work well on most trad route I climb, too. If I'm only carrying one set of stoppers, I pick my HB offsets.
Ed
[ This Message was edited by: up2top on 2003-01-09 22:28 ]
[ This Message was edited by: up2top on 2003-01-09 22:28 ]
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nailzz
Jan 10, 2003, 7:39 AM
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Yeah tough crowd indeed. So, before I try to put a helpful reply on this thread I'll rant a bit.
I'm getting really tired of seeing basic questions followed by the usual string of flame replies such as, why don't you find the answer yourself or somesuch reply. For |=|_||<5 sake does it really take that long to explain the difference between a regular taper and an offset? Do you really need to reply with non-productive posts? Does it do any good at all?
This is a user-supported website. The ongoing health of this community depends on the contributions of its users. So, do we want to drive people away by making them feel dumb and/or lazy for not attempting an exhaustive search of the web before posing a question to our so-called experts here? I don't. But maybe I'm in the minority here.
Now, to shed some light on your question, an offset is basically a nut/stopper that has asymmetrical faces. It is kind of hard to explain without having a picture. They fit well in cracks and features that don't come down with evenly tapering sides. One face is set at one angle and the other face at a different angle. Check out John Long's 'How to Rock Climb' book. He has pictures of offsets in there.
Viva La Q-Ratings!
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jt512
Jan 10, 2003, 6:48 PM
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So, to sum up:
Yossarian and I suggest that the answer is either self-evident or that the original questioner should do a little research on his own.
Nailzz tells us we're being hostile, attempts to answer the question, admits it's hard to explain, and ends up telling the original poster to look it up.
I love it.
-Jay
[ This Message was edited by: jt512 on 2003-01-10 11:23 ]
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jumaringjeff
Jan 10, 2003, 7:14 PM
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disco...
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winkwinklambonini
Jan 11, 2003, 4:39 PM
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If you can go to a store......metolious=offset;BD=normal.
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repete
Jan 11, 2003, 5:56 PM
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I thought Metolius nuts were curved not offset.
[ This Message was edited by: repete on 2003-01-11 10:02 ]
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trangok2
Feb 13, 2003, 4:49 AM
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I completely agree with Nailzz. Enough with the hardass comments, so just answer the questions. You are impressing no one with your snide remarks.
Concerning the real post, here is a helpful link that shows the benefits and overall appearance of an offset nut.
http://www.dmmwales.com/dmm/pages/peenuts.htm
Hope it helps!
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caughtinside
Feb 13, 2003, 6:14 AM
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jt and yossarian sure are smart. maybe I should start posting unhelpful crap and sound real smart too.
If you aren't interested in helping someone out in the gear forum, you don't need to be a pecker about it.
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