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climbing13
Feb 14, 2013, 4:56 AM
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I am fairly new to climbing, (21F) and over the months I've been climbing I've progressed from very minimal strength and ability to now being able to clean climb a 5'10/ boulder V1- V2. I recently went to a climbing gym in a different city and found the vast majority of routes were rated higher than my ability (5'11's and 5'12s mostly) and couldnt send many routes there.
I'm wondering if this is an indication of a common trend? Should I expect that until I can climb higher ratings that my options will be somewhat limited?
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Syd
Feb 14, 2013, 9:34 AM
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Certainly not here. I reckon the average route at most gyms would be around 5.10d. There's generally more business with poor climbers/beginners.
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gblauer
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Feb 14, 2013, 1:19 PM
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Most gyms have a nice range of routes. In fact, it's often the opposite. Too many moderates, not enough 12's/13's.
Anyway, you don't have to stick to route to have fun. You can make up your own problems and routes and still get a great workout.
Work on your technique (foot work, body tension, dynamic movement etc), strength and endurance; your ability to climb more difficult routes/problems will follow.
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lena_chita
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Feb 14, 2013, 3:34 PM
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climbing13 wrote: I am fairly new to climbing, (21F) and over the months I've been climbing I've progressed from very minimal strength and ability to now being able to clean climb a 5'10/ boulder V1- V2. I recently went to a climbing gym in a different city and found the vast majority of routes were rated higher than my ability (5'11's and 5'12s mostly) and couldnt send many routes there. I'm wondering if this is an indication of a common trend? Should I expect that until I can climb higher ratings that my options will be somewhat limited?
It is not true in most gyms, but it is somewhat more true outside.
Still, you haven't been climbing for very long, and you can already do 5.10/V1-V2. I am sure you will progress beyond this point, and will enjoy the new climbs that get opened to you as you are able to climb harder stuff.
You should occasionally get on stuff that is harder than what you think you can do. Route grades are not absolute. there may very well be a 5.11 out there that will feel easier to you than some of the 5.10s that you have already done, depending on what your relative strengths/weaknesses are.
Besides, what do you lose by trying, especially in a safe gym environment, where you don't have to worry about abandoned gear, weather, etc. etc.? Get on that 5.12, try it! If you can't do a move, after several tries, skip it, and try the moves above it. And again...
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dagibbs
Feb 18, 2013, 6:47 AM
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I've climbed at some 40+ gyms, and I have yet to come by a gym that is mostly in the 5.11 and up range for the climbs it has set.
I have found a moderately wide variance in how difficult a climb is for its rating, though.
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chadnsc
Feb 18, 2013, 5:30 PM
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As other have stated I think your experience with the new gym isn't typical. I've found that most gyms tend to set there routes using a bell curve with the .10 in the middle of curve with the very easy and very hard routes on either end of the curve.
Of course when a city has a larger number of gyms (say six) I've found that at least one gym tends to have a higher number of harder routes and is geared more towards training for more accomplished climbers.
I personally wouldn't worry about not being able to climb many more routes until you can crank harder. It's been my (limited) experience that once you can lead in the upper .10 range there is a lifetime of routes out there for you to enjoy.
Have fun climbing and keep safe!
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dagibbs
Feb 20, 2013, 6:29 AM
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chadnsc wrote: I personally wouldn't worry about not being able to climb many more routes until you can crank harder. It's been my (limited) experience that once you can lead in the upper .10 range there is a lifetime of routes out there for you to enjoy.
I think there's probably a lifetime of routes out there leading at 5.9.
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chadnsc
Feb 20, 2013, 2:57 PM
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dagibbs wrote: chadnsc wrote: I personally wouldn't worry about not being able to climb many more routes until you can crank harder. It's been my (limited) experience that once you can lead in the upper .10 range there is a lifetime of routes out there for you to enjoy. I think there's probably a lifetime of routes out there leading at 5.9.
Very true. I meant to say that when you can lead in the .10 range you'll be able to show up to nearly any crag / climbing area and find plenty of routes to climb within your ability. 
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lena_chita
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Feb 20, 2013, 4:57 PM
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chadnsc wrote: dagibbs wrote: chadnsc wrote: I personally wouldn't worry about not being able to climb many more routes until you can crank harder. It's been my (limited) experience that once you can lead in the upper .10 range there is a lifetime of routes out there for you to enjoy. I think there's probably a lifetime of routes out there leading at 5.9. Very true. I meant to say that when you can lead in the .10 range you'll be able to show up to nearly any crag / climbing area and find plenty of routes to climb within your ability.
I don't think it is true at all. While a large multi-crag sport climbing area will definitely have some walls in that range, there are also plenty of crags that don't have anything at all below 5.11, 5.12, or even 5.13.
You are more likely to find plenty of routes in 5.10 and below range if you are talking about gear routes. But usually newer climbers coming out of gyms will be thinking of sport climbing, not trad.
It varies with location, of course, but in a place like New River Gorge, I can think of maybe 8-9 walls/crags that will have "plenty" (as in, a day's or weekend's worth) of sport climbs in 5.10 and below range.
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dagibbs
Feb 21, 2013, 4:45 AM
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lena_chita wrote: chadnsc wrote: dagibbs wrote: chadnsc wrote: I personally wouldn't worry about not being able to climb many more routes until you can crank harder. It's been my (limited) experience that once you can lead in the upper .10 range there is a lifetime of routes out there for you to enjoy. I think there's probably a lifetime of routes out there leading at 5.9. Very true. I meant to say that when you can lead in the .10 range you'll be able to show up to nearly any crag / climbing area and find plenty of routes to climb within your ability. I don't think it is true at all. While a large multi-crag sport climbing area will definitely have some walls in that range, there are also plenty of crags that don't have anything at all below 5.11, 5.12, or even 5.13. You are more likely to find plenty of routes in 5.10 and below range if you are talking about gear routes. But usually newer climbers coming out of gyms will be thinking of sport climbing, not trad. It varies with location, of course, but in a place like New River Gorge, I can think of maybe 8-9 walls/crags that will have "plenty" (as in, a day's or weekend's worth) of sport climbs in 5.10 and below range.
I think that may depend on how narrowly you define "crag". If you consider Waimea at Rumney -- no there's almost nothing for a 5.10 sport leader. But if you consider Rumney as a whole -- yup, there's lots of climbing for the 5.10 sport leader.
But, I also agree that there tends to be a lot more trad in the under 5.10 range.
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curt
Feb 21, 2013, 5:48 AM
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lena_chita wrote: chadnsc wrote: dagibbs wrote: chadnsc wrote: I personally wouldn't worry about not being able to climb many more routes until you can crank harder. It's been my (limited) experience that once you can lead in the upper .10 range there is a lifetime of routes out there for you to enjoy. I think there's probably a lifetime of routes out there leading at 5.9. Very true. I meant to say that when you can lead in the .10 range you'll be able to show up to nearly any crag / climbing area and find plenty of routes to climb within your ability. I don't think it is true at all. While a large multi-crag sport climbing area will definitely have some walls in that range, there are also plenty of crags that don't have anything at all below 5.11, 5.12, or even 5.13...
His statement is true in general, but not perhaps with respect to sport crags.
Curt
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chadnsc
Feb 21, 2013, 3:00 PM
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curt wrote: lena_chita wrote: chadnsc wrote: dagibbs wrote: chadnsc wrote: I personally wouldn't worry about not being able to climb many more routes until you can crank harder. It's been my (limited) experience that once you can lead in the upper .10 range there is a lifetime of routes out there for you to enjoy. I think there's probably a lifetime of routes out there leading at 5.9. Very true. I meant to say that when you can lead in the .10 range you'll be able to show up to nearly any crag / climbing area and find plenty of routes to climb within your ability. I don't think it is true at all. While a large multi-crag sport climbing area will definitely have some walls in that range, there are also plenty of crags that don't have anything at all below 5.11, 5.12, or even 5.13... His statement is true in general, but not perhaps with respect to sport crags. Curt
Yeah that's what I meant, trad.
Sorry for the extra poor writing, I've been using RC.com as a study break and me mind is jello.
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lena_chita
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Feb 21, 2013, 4:42 PM
Post #13 of 14
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dagibbs wrote: lena_chita wrote: chadnsc wrote: dagibbs wrote: chadnsc wrote: I personally wouldn't worry about not being able to climb many more routes until you can crank harder. It's been my (limited) experience that once you can lead in the upper .10 range there is a lifetime of routes out there for you to enjoy. I think there's probably a lifetime of routes out there leading at 5.9. Very true. I meant to say that when you can lead in the .10 range you'll be able to show up to nearly any crag / climbing area and find plenty of routes to climb within your ability. I don't think it is true at all. While a large multi-crag sport climbing area will definitely have some walls in that range, there are also plenty of crags that don't have anything at all below 5.11, 5.12, or even 5.13. You are more likely to find plenty of routes in 5.10 and below range if you are talking about gear routes. But usually newer climbers coming out of gyms will be thinking of sport climbing, not trad. It varies with location, of course, but in a place like New River Gorge, I can think of maybe 8-9 walls/crags that will have "plenty" (as in, a day's or weekend's worth) of sport climbs in 5.10 and below range. I think that may depend on how narrowly you define "crag". If you consider Waimea at Rumney -- no there's almost nothing for a 5.10 sport leader. But if you consider Rumney as a whole -- yup, there's lots of climbing for the 5.10 sport leader. [/qupte] True. I tend to think Rumney = area, Waimea or Hinterlands, or Jimmy Cliff =crags/walls at Rumney. Rumney is more compact than the New. It is hard for anyone to think of Endless Wall and Summersville lake and meadow River as the SAME crag. But, I also agree that there tends to be a lot more trad in the under 5.10 range.
(This post was edited by lena_chita on Feb 21, 2013, 6:51 PM)
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