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devkrev
Oct 8, 2005, 8:16 PM
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Is there anyone who has climbed it? I was wondering if there are any established lines? Grades? Gear? Anyone?
thanks
dev
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ne_dan
Oct 8, 2005, 9:02 PM
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It's been climbed, but I don't know about how many routes there are. It's supposed to be loose, and bad gear. Along with covered in poison ivy.
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samanddusti
Oct 8, 2005, 10:57 PM
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Registered: Jun 23, 2005
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Ive climbed it. Its pretty tretcherous at the bottem so we just bellayed from the top. This requires very long anchors. There are somewhat established routes however I do not know their grades or wherabouts. There is a bounch of info on the web. Just search google. Sry i cant be of more help.
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trainor
May 17, 2006, 1:35 PM
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Registered: Jan 5, 2005
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300Ft? maybe we could convice some people this place is awesome and draw some traffic away from the gunks, right dev?
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charlieliu
May 17, 2006, 5:29 PM
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Registered: Dec 16, 2004
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West Rock is open for climbing, East Rock is not.
I hope you're talking about the area overlooking the baseball fields-the quarry area while potentially nice climbing is a deathtrap due to loose blocks up top.
There's a clean-up project of the area going on right now (and opportunities for FAs)-contact Martin Torresquintero at New Haven parks and rec.
That said, my experience has been unless you're prepared to get on a 10+ R line, you might want to stick to toproping....all the black stuff that looks like crack will unfortunately prove to be just black lines/ surface angles on a closer look (seriously)-you can literally have zero pro in many many places that might look reasonably protected from the bottom.
And it's definitely not 300 ft cliffs, maybe 150-you will have to belay from the top :>.
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mtmountainguiding
May 19, 2006, 10:34 PM
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Registered: May 19, 2006
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We have climbed dozens of routes since the 1980's on the BD wall at West Rock. The longest route was a 3 pitch 283 vertical feet 5.9+ on The Barked Daniels wall.
We had also used this wall to do rescue training with the New Haven Fire Dept. There is plenty of good routes, and also plenty of loose rock like in any other undeveloped area.
About 60 routes have been cleaned. From 5.3 to 5.11+
Poison Ivy is abundant while in season (mostly at the bottom of the cliff), but bees are more of a problem. We always wear long pants and use common sense.
The southern part of the ridge has some superb routes like Passage to India a 2 pitch 5.8 and the classic ATX aid crack. 5.8 A2
Dave Fasulo's book listed some of the developments, and we are currently working on a guide book with line drawings and pictures.
Please note that Judges Cave is a Historical Monument, therefore chalk is not allowed! So yes you can climb it, but you can also get in trouble with the law by defacing the monument with chalk. Please refrain from using chalk since it may jeopardize access.
We will be happy to give you more beta. In addition, we are looking for climbers to help us with the clean ups and to confirm the routes.
next cleaning is scheduled for early June.
Cheers
MT Mountain Guiding
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dudemanbu
May 19, 2006, 11:29 PM
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Registered: Jun 3, 2005
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I'd love more information about west rock.
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mburke225
May 20, 2006, 12:17 AM
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Registered: Apr 18, 2004
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I live right next to it. Great mtnbiking trails, some of the best in the state. The south face has a couple areas that would clean up pretty well, but right now are pretty overgrown w/ poison ivy and everything else. Also, there are a couple awesome 60-80 foot, 100 yard long slabs which would be some of the best in the state if the were another 10 degrees steeper. Purely beginneer stuff now though. Shoot me a pm when the guidebook comes out.
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trainor
May 20, 2006, 4:42 PM
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Registered: Jan 5, 2005
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i'm finding it hard to figure out what to think about this place. too many different opinions.
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dudemanbu
May 20, 2006, 9:12 PM
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Registered: Jun 3, 2005
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maybe we should just head down there and check it out for ourselves.. and bring weedkiller, bee killer, and crowbars.
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devkrev
May 25, 2006, 1:01 PM
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Registered: Sep 28, 2004
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AND GAS POWERED DRILLS!!!
nah, just kidding about the drills....
dev
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xbrianx1990
Aug 20, 2010, 12:09 AM
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Registered: May 24, 2009
Posts: 41
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Bringing up a dead thread because I'm looking for info on this crag and people interested in devolping it.
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chugach001
Mar 19, 2013, 1:06 AM
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Registered: Oct 21, 2002
Posts: 311
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Bump.
I just drove by this today and was amazed. What a great looking piece of rock when I wasn't expecting it. Sounds like the mtb might be a better choice if I ever finagle some free time in the area.
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