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rocupdjb60
Apr 15, 2013, 4:48 AM
Post #1 of 2
(4502 views)
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Registered: Apr 15, 2013
Posts: 1
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My name is David Blevins and I think I am almost in shape physically and 100% mentelly ready. I am an old timer that does not believe in, bolts, petons and trash (ect).Leaving wherever you have been so that nobody else can tell you have been there. I have made first assents that I gave no name for and other climbers watching understood that what me and my partner/er's did was not for fame or to name a route, rather, that it was a mental and physical journey between us and the rock. I tremendiistly appreciated it, but somehow it seems someone tells a tale about it. Royal Robbins books (are great) and one of the few books about climbing 40 years ago.
I need information about wired hexcentries? I could use a hex placed in a horizontal crack (not very deep), and rope drag would not pull them out). Or using them in a horizontal crack as apposing force method. I did not push for leading, but everyone always knew, I was always up for leading. It is a mental trip that part of my brain would always hope and pray for. Using the least least amount of of the muscles nessary to moves upward, by using your feet, ballence, spreading out what is a group of all your body parts; especially your mental state of mind!!!!!!!
I hope there are some climbers with experience that can tell me if the wired hexcentrics can be used as effecently as the roped ones.
I am not some old koot, I climbed for twenty years and had a 60 foot fall through a 3'x 3' hole, landing on concrete, while doing the electrical work on an an elevator eddition to Duke Hospital. I have been going through many medical proceduries, and now I am ready to lead again. So if there are any older climbers or younger climbers that understand the original use of hexcentries, please give me a response.
Climb with your mind and your body will follow.
Thanks, David Blevins
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Rokjox
Aug 20, 2013, 5:27 AM
Post #2 of 2
(4138 views)
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Registered: Nov 14, 2006
Posts: 71
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well, this is fun. a question with only a 6 month lag before getting so much as a flag. The guy probibly died since the post.
Sounds like you David are my kind of climber, climb'm and forget'em, let somebody else think they got to do something nobody else has, catch and release, we don't need no stinking names or ratings.
I hit 60 early next spring. You'll do fine, the average age of a internet posting rock climber nowadays is 57.
Look, wired hexes is cool, except that they tip around a little more around the short axis, the wire is very stiff and doesn't lay against the rock so close so you got to carry runners anyway. Meaning a single placement is usually heavier than we used in the old slung days. Likely too is the wired hex is less problematic to the manufacturer as the wire needs no replacement until its damaged somehow. But you don't get to make them different lengths like we used to, and using them in stacked or opposing placements can be much more tricky as the darn wires impose their limits. You could stack the hexes on a cord, but few ever tried that.
Corded hexes had some uses, the wired ones are different and more expensive but in small sizes I like the cables better. Larger sizes, cord. But you knew that.
Welcome back old timer, hope you had fun.
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