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john1987
Jan 11, 2003, 11:54 PM
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There is a crack at my gym and i have been thinking about how to climb it. When i was at the gym a couple weeks ago i realized that if I just bend my first set of nuckles i could just barely fit my hands in. I had to wiggle my hands to get them out. I havant tried to climb it yet and i won't beable to becasue i wont go down state for a couple of weeks but what is the best way to tape my hands for a crack like this so it won't hurt so much?
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camhead
Jan 12, 2003, 12:01 AM
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for all you want to know about crack technique, go to
http://flash.lakeheadu.ca/~lurock/crack.html
good luck
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sparky
Jan 12, 2003, 12:08 AM
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if your jamming make sure to get the back of your hands real good, maybe a little on your knuckles, i've got permanent scabs there
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clymber
Jan 12, 2003, 2:46 PM
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crack kills stay far far away from it
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crack_head
Jan 12, 2003, 3:16 PM
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what clymber what are you smoking crack is addicting there is nothing better than a good crack!!! a far as taping your hands goes for hand cracks, start with the tape at the top of your hand right below your big knuckle on you index finger and wrap across your other knuckles around the front of your hand then angle it down to the left side of your wrist and wraap around you wrist and tear it off
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rockjunkie
Jan 12, 2003, 5:34 PM
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i think that there's a diagram in the metolius catalog.
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winkwinklambonini
Jan 12, 2003, 7:54 PM
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taping is unneccessary. Get good jams so they don't move while your hanging on them.
Learn the hand jam, finger jam, fist jam, ring jam, thumb cam, and the ultra-secret x jam.
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the_elk
Jan 12, 2003, 9:09 PM
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I'm no crack climbing expert, but having just returned from a little climbing trip where cracks were pretty much the go, I feel I should warn you that if your hands get too stuck in the crack (which it sounds like they are) if you pop off, you might just leave part of your hands behind. Don't wanna go losing parts of fingers on a gym crack, at least save that for the real horrors of crack climbing.
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philbox
Moderator
Jan 12, 2003, 9:22 PM
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Hey Elk where did you go. What are you talking about, if your hands are that stuck in the crack then that is exactly how you want them. Crank off those hands baby. I love a good jam, I particularly love it when every jam feels like an anchor, yeah much satisfaction. Now if only my offwidth technique would feel as solid?
...Phil...
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john1987
Jan 12, 2003, 10:08 PM
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yeah my hands are really stuck in there. Could it really rip a finger off? I've never heard of that happening.
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philbox
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Jan 12, 2003, 11:02 PM
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A decent hand jam will NOT rip a finger off. If it is as tight as you say it is then yard on up on that baby. How are you feet, if you are doing it right then feet are almost inconsequential but even so your feet will be providing necessary driving power to scamper up that crack.
Don`t wear rings or watches eh otherwise you could very well rip a finger off.
Whack that hand in the crack and fold your thumb under your palm to get a bomb proof anchor jam and then yard on up. Keep yer butt out from the wall so that force is transferred down onto your feet which should also be jamming in the crack.
Don`t stretch yourself out too high, keep yourself a bit bunched up and that will see you making easier progress up that crack.
Try that and lemme know how you get along.
...Phil...
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jono
Jan 13, 2003, 7:12 AM
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tape is for tools. man up and dont use tape.
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birdbreak
Jan 15, 2003, 2:21 AM
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Uhhh....crak climbing ~ it's a love hate relationship!
http://www.uoregon.edu/~opp/climbing/crackclimbing.htm
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powers
Jan 15, 2003, 2:54 AM
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There is nothing wrong with tape . jamming always came natural to me.
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theperfectdrugsk
Jan 15, 2003, 3:16 AM
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heh...i dont find anything wrong with tape either...although i dont use it except to stop up a cut
jam it, and take its punk ass out...only problem is getting cut up if you slip and fall, or just taking it out...that shouldnt be a problem, unless youd like for us to call the waaaaambulance
-tony
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spider_woman
Jan 24, 2003, 3:10 PM
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The best technique for taping your hands for cracks that I have found is this: Go to the drug store and ask them if they carry tincure benzoin (most will have to special order it.), it only costs about $7 for a normal sized bottle. When you go to tape your hands spread the benzoin over the top part of your hand directly underneath the first and second finger, also under the thumb if desired. Then tape your hands spreading the tape vertically, in pieces from the bottom knuckle of the finger to the wrist. The benzoin causes the tape to stick like mad, protecting your hands when you go to crankin'. It works better when applied to clean hands, so wash any chalk off from earlier climbing, also water helps bring the tape off easier.......DO NOT rip it off quickly as it can and usually will bring skin off with it. Eventually calouses will form, and maybe the tape won't be as necessary for you, whatever you deem as best for you. Happy Crack Climbing!!
-r.
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