Falling rocks? A straight downwards impact to the top of the head if you are not looking up? I don't mean to be sarcastic, but if I'm leading, does wearing a helmet protect me from anything? I wear a BD something or other that is a thin plastic shell. Maybe there is some protection if I were to invert on a fall and hit the back of my head? Someone help me here. I'm just thinking that a side impact would not be protected in any way shape or form

Falling rocks? A straight downwards impact to the top of the head if you are not looking up? I don't mean to be sarcastic, but if I'm leading, does wearing a helmet protect me from anything? I wear a BD something or other that is a thin plastic shell. Maybe there is some protection if I were to invert on a fall and hit the back of my head? Someone help me here. I'm just thinking that a side impact would not be protected in any way shape or form

What you should be asking: "have you ever come away from a day of climbing, regretting that you wore a helmet?"

Good comment, but there times when I've been sorry I've worn a helmet. Two days ago I was climbing a chimney in Boulder Canyon and I could not make the exit move with my helmet on. I took it off. When my second came up, I lowered a sling and hauled up her helmet and mine. When I started the route, I looked at the exit, which appeared wide enough that the helmet would not be an issue. I was wrong.

r.c

UIAA 106:
http://www.theuiaa.org/...106_helmets_2009.pdf

EN 12492
http://www.satrappeguide.com/EN12492.php

Surely, Jim Titt is the man you're waiting for to reply to this thread but meanwhile you can check the requirements in these docs.

That said, I've always wondered when manufacturers start advertising potential advantages of foam helmets for fall protection.

Me? I worn a helmet once in the last 15 years. The protection they offer from impacts is so pathetic compared with the normal race helmets I´m used to I can´t be bothered (and I don´t fall of much anyway) and the impact protection from falling objects doesn´t seem much related to the size of the rocks I play around on.
There are other ways to protect oneself such as don´t stand around chatting at the bottom of the cliff when bumblies are going off route, don´t follow incompetent parties on long routes, belay under nice overhangs and so on.
Wear a hat or not, I´ve no real opinion but one should have no illusions it will keep you alive when you ab off the end of the rope or when a fridge-block comes down the mountain.

Depends on the helmet. Helmets with harnesses in them are designed to protect against objects from above. The design deflects objects as opposed to absorbs impact...

Foam helmets are designed absorb the impact and don't deflect object very well...

I climb in an area with a lot of lose rock. I have personally knocked a block the size of a cooler on my belayer (it hit her knees) ...

As Jim says, there are other ways to protect yourself. In an area such as you describe, if you are climbing single pitch routes, it would make a lot of sense to use an indirect belay, with a ground anchor some distance form the base of the route, safe from rock fall. A direct belay would increase the load on the belayer in a fall. Most commonly, belayers think that standing underneath the climber is a good thing to do, often with claims of dynamic belaying to help the climber in falls. Dynamic belaying is a myth IMHO. Testing here http://user.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/Simulation_of_Climbing_and_Rescue_Belays.pdf shows: "Only a small amount of belayer lifting is helpful (~20 cm). More lifting increases fall distance and does not decrease peak force. " Importantly, this is a passive movement rather than an active dynamic belay in response to a fall. It is impossible to time a dynamic belay sufficiently accurately, and to jump sufficiently high (rather than being pulled upwards), to have any useful effect. For this reason it makes sense, to belay away from the base of the cliff when possible.

As Jim says, there are other ways to protect yourself. In an area such as you describe, if you are climbing single pitch routes, it would make a lot of sense to use an indirect belay, with a ground anchor some distance form the base of the route, safe from rock fall. A direct belay would increase the load on the belayer in a fall. Most commonly, belayers think that standing underneath the climber is a good thing to do, often with claims of dynamic belaying to help the climber in falls. Dynamic belaying is a myth IMHO. Testing here http://user.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/Simulation_of_Climbing_and_Rescue_Belays.pdf shows: "Only a small amount of belayer lifting is helpful (~20 cm). More lifting increases fall distance and does not decrease peak force. " Importantly, this is a passive movement rather than an active dynamic belay in response to a fall. It is impossible to time a dynamic belay sufficiently accurately, and to jump sufficiently high (rather than being pulled upwards), to have any useful effect. For this reason it makes sense, to belay away from the base of the cliff when possible.

For a helmet to get the CE or UIAA certifications they have to pass three basic tests, one for top impact and penetration, one for side impact and one for strap configuration and strength.

Suspended test with plastic helmets usually fare well in the top impact and penetration tests but barely pass the side impact test. Foam helmets flip it around and pass the side impact tests with flying colors and barely pass the top penetration tests.

Most injuries from falling rock are from the top and most that occur during a fall are side and back blows.

So you decide; are you more likely to be in a falling rock situation or a falling situation? As fas as I know, there are no suspended helmets with a significant foam "ring" surrounding the head. Im not sure why, other than the geek factor.

Climb safe,
Mal

As Jim says, there are other ways to protect yourself. In an area such as you describe, if you are climbing single pitch routes, it would make a lot of sense to use an indirect belay, with a ground anchor some distance form the base of the route, safe from rock fall. A direct belay would increase the load on the belayer in a fall. Most commonly, belayers think that standing underneath the climber is a good thing to do, often with claims of dynamic belaying to help the climber in falls. Dynamic belaying is a myth IMHO. Testing here http://user.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/Simulation_of_Climbing_and_Rescue_Belays.pdf shows: "Only a small amount of belayer lifting is helpful (~20 cm). More lifting increases fall distance and does not decrease peak force. " Importantly, this is a passive movement rather than an active dynamic belay in response to a fall. It is impossible to time a dynamic belay sufficiently accurately, and to jump sufficiently high (rather than being pulled upwards), to have any useful effect. For this reason it makes sense, to belay away from the base of the cliff when possible.

and NO you dont want to belay away from the base of the wall on many instances ... if you belayed climbers who constantly whipped on lead or did so yourself you would know this ...

belay away from the wall down low can mean you can get pulled in and slammed if your climber falls at the start of the route, and can cause a decked climber ... especially if you are a lighter belayer