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Appelkoos
Jul 24, 2013, 7:27 AM
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Registered: Mar 5, 2007
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Hi,
I'm looking to climb "Waking Dream" on Tioman (Malaysia) next month, and am hoping to chat to the first ascensionists about the quality of the bolts and rivets they installed.
It seems that Scotty Nelson is now based in Colorado. If anyone knows him (or Nick Tomlin, who opened the route with him) could you ask him to contact me here?
Thanks!
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bandycoot
Jul 24, 2013, 2:14 PM
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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 2028
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I have e-mailed Scotty a link to this tread. You will need to replace the old bolts. They are sea-side and deteriorated. As of 2008 they were in abysmal condition.
Josh
(This post was edited by bandycoot on Jul 24, 2013, 2:16 PM)
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Appelkoos
Jul 25, 2013, 1:48 AM
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Registered: Mar 5, 2007
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Thanks, Josh - much appreciated. I'll pack the drill.
Wondering whether the rivets are still usable, or whether those too need replacing.
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bandycoot
Jul 25, 2013, 2:06 AM
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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
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From what I saw, EVERYTHING needs replacement. I made it halfway up the route without a drill, and quickly realized that heading off into the 5.11+ dihedral that's bolt protected about 1/3 of the way up was a fool's errand judging by what I had seen so far. We bailed off bolts that I'm not sure I would even trust now, 5 years later. If you can, bring titanium glue-in, and try to update the route responsibly. I believe Scotty was about 17 when heading out there, so the bolts are not the best. With good protection, the route would certainly see more traffic.
Josh
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Appelkoos
Jul 25, 2013, 2:11 AM
Post #5 of 6
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Registered: Mar 5, 2007
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I've just picked up a batch of Ti's from the Thaitanium guys - I'll pack them and the RE500 with the drill.
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bandycoot
Jul 25, 2013, 2:21 AM
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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
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It would be awesome if you posted your updated to the route, and route condition, when you're done with it. It looked beautiful, and Mukut (sp?) Village was an amazing place to spend a week. Have fun down there, and I hope that Scotty get's back to you!
Josh
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