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Raiden
Aug 7, 2013, 3:54 AM
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I'm considering moving to Brazil in a year or two for work (to Taubate in the state of Sao Paulo). Taubate is about an hour and a half northeast of the city of Sao Paulo.
I was wondering if anyone has information on climbing in this area. The information on mountain project and rc.com isn't very complete.
It seems like there is a climbing gym in Taubate ( http://www.pedraeaventura.com.br/index.html ) but I'm having trouble finding information on outdoor climbing in the area.
Anyone have any beta on climbing in Brazil?
Thanks.
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Gmburns2000
Aug 7, 2013, 1:51 PM
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Raiden wrote: I'm considering moving to Brazil in a year or two for work (to Taubate in the state of Sao Paulo). Taubate is about an hour and a half northeast of the city of Sao Paulo. I was wondering if anyone has information on climbing in this area. The information on mountain project and rc.com isn't very complete. It seems like there is a climbing gym in Taubate ( http://www.pedraeaventura.com.br/index.html ) but I'm having trouble finding information on outdoor climbing in the area. Anyone have any beta on climbing in Brazil? Thanks.
I don't know about Taubate, but Sao Paulo state has a lot of great climbing, as does Minas Gerais to the north. I found this guide (see bottom of the page):
http://www.summitpost.org/pedra-do-ba/154378
I live in Parana and I haven't climbed north of here yet, but everyone tells me that the south-east (Sao Paulo state, Rio de Janeiro state, Minas Gerais, Mato Grosso do Sul, etc) have a ton of great, high quality climbing.
Not sure how your portuguese is, but trying using the words escalar or escalada.
Also, not sure what your familiarity with Brasil is, but in general things work on relationships. You'll be much better off finding good places to climb once you meet people who are willing to take you out. There aren't a lot of guidebooks (there are some, and you can find them in the stores here...maybe), so getting to know people is your best bet.
Some advice, bring ALL your gear here. Gear is INSANELY expensive (US$200 rope = US$450 - $600 in Brasil, for example). It's not uncommon to find ropes for R$850, but it depends on the store and what you buy.
Also, try to learn some commands in Portuguese. You really don't want to get dropped due to a communication issue.
Best of luck.
Greg
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Raiden
Aug 8, 2013, 12:15 AM
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Registered: Nov 24, 2010
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Gmburns2000 wrote: I don't know about Taubate, but Sao Paulo state has a lot of great climbing, as does Minas Gerais to the north. I found this guide (see bottom of the page): http://www.summitpost.org/pedra-do-ba/154378 I live in Parana and I haven't climbed north of here yet, but everyone tells me that the south-east (Sao Paulo state, Rio de Janeiro state, Minas Gerais, Mato Grosso do Sul, etc) have a ton of great, high quality climbing. Not sure how your portuguese is, but trying using the words escalar or escalada. Also, not sure what your familiarity with Brasil is, but in general things work on relationships. You'll be much better off finding good places to climb once you meet people who are willing to take you out. There aren't a lot of guidebooks (there are some, and you can find them in the stores here...maybe), so getting to know people is your best bet. Some advice, bring ALL your gear here. Gear is INSANELY expensive (US$200 rope = US$450 - $600 in Brasil, for example). It's not uncommon to find ropes for R$850, but it depends on the store and what you buy. Also, try to learn some commands in Portuguese. You really don't want to get dropped due to a communication issue. Best of luck. Greg
Hey Greg, thanks for the info. I'm not familiar with Brazil at all and I don't speak any Portuguese but I would learn some if I go there. Good beta on the price of gear. I figure the gym would be a good place to meet some people in the community to go outside with.
In general, what is the balance between sport and trad climbing? I'm not much of a trad climber.
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Gmburns2000
Aug 8, 2013, 1:41 PM
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Raiden wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: I don't know about Taubate, but Sao Paulo state has a lot of great climbing, as does Minas Gerais to the north. I found this guide (see bottom of the page): http://www.summitpost.org/pedra-do-ba/154378 I live in Parana and I haven't climbed north of here yet, but everyone tells me that the south-east (Sao Paulo state, Rio de Janeiro state, Minas Gerais, Mato Grosso do Sul, etc) have a ton of great, high quality climbing. Not sure how your portuguese is, but trying using the words escalar or escalada. Also, not sure what your familiarity with Brasil is, but in general things work on relationships. You'll be much better off finding good places to climb once you meet people who are willing to take you out. There aren't a lot of guidebooks (there are some, and you can find them in the stores here...maybe), so getting to know people is your best bet. Some advice, bring ALL your gear here. Gear is INSANELY expensive (US$200 rope = US$450 - $600 in Brasil, for example). It's not uncommon to find ropes for R$850, but it depends on the store and what you buy. Also, try to learn some commands in Portuguese. You really don't want to get dropped due to a communication issue. Best of luck. Greg Hey Greg, thanks for the info. I'm not familiar with Brazil at all and I don't speak any Portuguese but I would learn some if I go there. Good beta on the price of gear. I figure the gym would be a good place to meet some people in the community to go outside with. In general, what is the balance between sport and trad climbing? I'm not much of a trad climber.
Depends on the region. Brasilians actually prefer to protect the rock and tend to gravitate towards the American perspective of not putting bolts where gear can be used. However, due to the price of gear and the relative income of the general population, bolts in South America are often donated to various climbing communities so that routes can go up cheaply (thus helping get more people involved with the sport). In short, it's a mix and depends on where you climb and who you climb with.
Brasilians are really friendly people, so you won't have a problem making friends, and they easily forgive people who don't speak the language, but learn something. You'll be FAR more productive if you learn portuguese. Brasil is also a dangerous place to live, and knowing Portuguese could save you. I don't want to scare you, but Brasilians have an internal radar that allow them to avoid trouble. It's a radar that most North Americans and probably Europeans don't have. It's a lot more dangerous for us because we don't pay attention to potential violence in advance of a situation so as to avoid it. It's just not a part of our culture / make-up. Knowing some portuguese will help you adjust to this.
And oh yeah, learn how to make a good caipirinha. If you can do that, folks will love you here. They'll be impressed that you took time to learn something about their culture. (also go to grooveshark and search for MPB - musica popular brasiliera and give that a good listen). Maybe rent these two movies: Central do Brasil and Cidade de Deus. The first movie gives a good representation of culture here. There are crooks everywhere, but they'll travel half the country to help you find your family. The second is about corruption and violence in the favelas. Both are pretty accurate depictions of life here, and people will like the fact that you saw these movies.
Best of luck. Brasil is a great place, but unless you've been to a place like it before its massive cultural contradictions will probably knock your socks off.
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Raiden
Aug 8, 2013, 8:48 PM
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Registered: Nov 24, 2010
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Cool, thanks for the info.
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slapstick
Sep 5, 2013, 2:52 PM
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Raiden,
Me and my buddies are here in Sao Paulo on a secondment. We climb every week, though only indoors (Sao Paulo, Casa de Pedra and 90 Graus), we are also looking for outdoor locations in SP state.
We are thinking Bau Rock (quite close to you) which, after Pao da Acucar, is said to be the best location for outdoor climbing. You also have so called pousadas that cater for climbers, have guides and guidebooks etc.
The Bragança Paulista region is another popular climbing area for Paulistanos (Visual das Águas, Guaraiúva, Pedra Bela, Maria Antonia). This is an hour from Sampa.
Don't worry about safety in Brazil, it's pretty okay (though be alert and work on your internal radar), we haven't had any problems and been here for almost 9 months already and even visited favela parties. Language is a must but you can be conversational in 6-7 months (my buddies from the US can lead a conversation over beer pretty easily). Plus you won't stay single for long and a brasiliera is the best teacher you can find.
Minas means mines, so expect great outdoor climbing locations in Minas Gerais.
Good luck!
(This post was edited by slapstick on Sep 5, 2013, 2:54 PM)
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Raiden
Sep 5, 2013, 5:41 PM
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Registered: Nov 24, 2010
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slapstick wrote: Raiden, Me and my buddies are here in Sao Paulo on a secondment. We climb every week, though only indoors (Sao Paulo, Casa de Pedra and 90 Graus), we are also looking for outdoor locations in SP state. We are thinking Bau Rock (quite close to you) which, after Pao da Acucar, is said to be the best location for outdoor climbing. You also have so called pousadas that cater for climbers, have guides and guidebooks etc. The Bragança Paulista region is another popular climbing area for Paulistanos (Visual das Águas, Guaraiúva, Pedra Bela, Maria Antonia). This is an hour from Sampa. Don't worry about safety in Brazil, it's pretty okay (though be alert and work on your internal radar), we haven't had any problems and been here for almost 9 months already and even visited favela parties. Language is a must but you can be conversational in 6-7 months (my buddies from the US can lead a conversation over beer pretty easily). Plus you won't stay single for long and a brasiliera is the best teacher you can find. Minas means mines, so expect great outdoor climbing locations in Minas Gerais. Good luck!
Thanks for the info. How are the gyms in Sao Paulo? I think I have been on their websites before. Do you know anything about the climbing gym in Taubate by chance?
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