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heidt410
Jun 28, 2014, 12:59 AM
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Ive never been to the area, I would like to approach the climbs via kayak. Where can one find a guidebook?
I read on another site that some routes have anchors now and can be done from the ground up... is this true? How many?
If the hanging belays still exist are they accessible from the ground by placing gear? How much webbing/rope should one bring to build rappel stations if thats what is done.
Any info on the area is appreciated. Other lakeshore cliffs that are worth a visit via boat aside from White Bluff?
(This post was edited by heidt410 on Jul 1, 2014, 3:20 AM)
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jumpingrock
Jun 29, 2014, 10:16 PM
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From what I remember (been a while) the bottom %50 of the crag was pure choss, and quite undercut. I wouldn't imagine being able to climb from the bottom. There might be some sections of the crag that aren't like that - but I don't know. If you're poking around at the base you might find my reverso that I dropped when coming off rappel at the start of Nimbus. Though that was 10 years ago so it might not be so useful anymore.
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granite_grrl
Jun 30, 2014, 12:21 PM
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White Bluff is easy to land your boat and get climbing, Lion's Head is okay too, but it's a bit more of a bush wack to get to the base of the cliff from the beach. That said, it's not that bad and it's a common thing to rap down, make your way down to the beach and go for a dip.
There are quite a few more things bolted to the ground now than is in the original guidebook. It really depends on the grade you climb though. As JR mentioned, a lot of the bottom of the cliff is choss and there's no way to bolt to the bottom and keep a 5.10 route a 5.10 (and in fact, the rock is so unstable you can't actually bolt it to the bottom). I have found the further down the cliff you go (away from Lion's Head) the more things are bolted to the ground.
Also consider the routes that start off ledges. It's not hard to scramble up to something like the Lost at Sea ledge and climb from there. These routes are also equipped with top anchors now.
If you're keen on doing this try going on a busy weekend when there's a decent number of climbers around to ask questions to and get your bearings. Expect to go to the cliff and spend a lot of time just figuring out where things are your first two-three visits.
Good luck!
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heidt410
Jul 1, 2014, 3:19 AM
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thanks for the info... Ill just focus on a few spots.
Any info on the guidebook?
Are there rap stations? Or do you build one? I dont want to rap off a tree if its going to create access issues.
And would it be easier to just approach Lions head by foot from the top? I dont need to use the boat.
Thanks
(This post was edited by heidt410 on Jul 1, 2014, 3:26 AM)
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granite_grrl
Jul 1, 2014, 5:02 PM
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I think it would be easier to approach from the top, but not as cool ;).
There is a new guide book in the works, they are actually working quite hard on it, but there's a lot info to gather. I would expect another year or two before it come out. MEC in toronto had some of the sport books a while ago, don't know if they still de, but it would be worth calling.
I think all the routes you can start from the bottom of the cliff (including the ones from accessible ledges) have top anchors now. Good idea to look before you start up a route though. I think there are a couple of rap stations but they're hard to find and I don't know where they're at. Most people just fix a line at the top of the cliff and collect it at the end of the day. There is also the Stinger Gully which isn't quite as gullyish as the name implies a ways down the cliff.
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heidt410
Jul 2, 2014, 2:13 AM
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thanks a bunch, your info is very helpful. MEC does have the book.
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