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cjb41191
Apr 28, 2015, 6:32 PM
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Registered: Sep 15, 2010
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Hi,
I am planning on going sport multi-pitch climbing this summer. I have been sport climbing for about a year now and want to make the next step to sport mulit-pitch. I get the general idea and plan to practice on the ground but what gear do you recommend for the anchor? Cordelette? double length sling? Two single length sling? BD guide ATC or Petzl Reverso? Also do you know of any good videos that explain the anchor?
Thank you all for the info!
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granite_grrl
Apr 28, 2015, 6:53 PM
Post #2 of 6
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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cjb41191 wrote: Hi, I am planning on going sport multi-pitch climbing this summer. I have been sport climbing for about a year now and want to make the next step to sport mulit-pitch. I get the general idea and plan to practice on the ground but what gear do you recommend for the anchor? Cordelette? double length sling? Two single length sling? BD guide ATC or Petzl Reverso? Also do you know of any good videos that explain the anchor? Thank you all for the info!
It really depends on what your anchor is. Two bolts I would probably go for a double length sling and then hook yourself to the power point using the rope. There could be a tree on the ledge instead though, or a maybe a pile of tat and an inconveniently placed bolt, or a combination.
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dagibbs
Apr 29, 2015, 12:26 PM
Post #3 of 6
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Registered: Oct 1, 2007
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cjb41191 wrote: Hi, I am planning on going sport multi-pitch climbing this summer. I have been sport climbing for about a year now and want to make the next step to sport mulit-pitch. I get the general idea and plan to practice on the ground but what gear do you recommend for the anchor? Cordelette? double length sling? Two single length sling? BD guide ATC or Petzl Reverso? Also do you know of any good videos that explain the anchor? Thank you all for the info!
If it is multi-pitch sport, I would expect a pair of bolts for the anchor. What I would use is a double-length sling and three lockers -- one locker into each bolt, double length sling into both lockers, over-hand knot for a power-point, locker in power-point. Carry two of these setups, one for each end of the pitch. You can then either belay your partner in guide mode, or with sling shot, depending on what feels best for each belay. I would also have a PAS (or equivalent) with locker for both climbers, and just clip in to the power point, or shelf, again as convenient for length. You can keep the knot tied the whole climb -- you don't really need to worry about equalization on a pair of bolts.
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sungam
Apr 29, 2015, 8:51 PM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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bring some tat in case you have to bail, too! Always sad to leave some expensive slings behind if something goes wrong (wet/loose, weather, scared, snake-in-the-crack).
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cracklover
Apr 30, 2015, 1:07 PM
Post #5 of 6
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
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dagibbs wrote: cjb41191 wrote: Hi, I am planning on going sport multi-pitch climbing this summer. I have been sport climbing for about a year now and want to make the next step to sport mulit-pitch. I get the general idea and plan to practice on the ground but what gear do you recommend for the anchor? Cordelette? double length sling? Two single length sling? BD guide ATC or Petzl Reverso? Also do you know of any good videos that explain the anchor? Thank you all for the info! If it is multi-pitch sport, I would expect a pair of bolts for the anchor. What I would use is a double-length sling and three lockers -- one locker into each bolt, double length sling into both lockers, over-hand knot for a power-point, locker in power-point. Carry two of these setups, one for each end of the pitch. You can then either belay your partner in guide mode, or with sling shot, depending on what feels best for each belay. I would also have a PAS (or equivalent) with locker for both climbers, and just clip in to the power point, or shelf, again as convenient for length. You can keep the knot tied the whole climb -- you don't really need to worry about equalization on a pair of bolts.
The above would be a reasonable setup. But if you don't want to invest in the PAS's, just know that you absolutely don't need them. Learn to anchor in with your tie-in rope.
The plus side of at least knowing how to anchor in with you rope, even if you find the PAS to be a convenience you like, is that eventually you will run into a situation where you do not want to be that close to the anchor. Being able to extend your anchor five, ten, fifteen feet to the edge of a ledge so you can see (and feel, and hear) your second will become an issue at some point, I can guarantee it. Either at a big ledge that breaks up a climb, or at a top-out.
GO
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dagibbs
Apr 30, 2015, 1:44 PM
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Registered: Oct 1, 2007
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cracklover wrote: dagibbs wrote: cjb41191 wrote: Hi, I am planning on going sport multi-pitch climbing this summer. I have been sport climbing for about a year now and want to make the next step to sport mulit-pitch. I get the general idea and plan to practice on the ground but what gear do you recommend for the anchor? Cordelette? double length sling? Two single length sling? BD guide ATC or Petzl Reverso? Also do you know of any good videos that explain the anchor? Thank you all for the info! If it is multi-pitch sport, I would expect a pair of bolts for the anchor. What I would use is a double-length sling and three lockers -- one locker into each bolt, double length sling into both lockers, over-hand knot for a power-point, locker in power-point. Carry two of these setups, one for each end of the pitch. You can then either belay your partner in guide mode, or with sling shot, depending on what feels best for each belay. I would also have a PAS (or equivalent) with locker for both climbers, and just clip in to the power point, or shelf, again as convenient for length. You can keep the knot tied the whole climb -- you don't really need to worry about equalization on a pair of bolts. The above would be a reasonable setup. But if you don't want to invest in the PAS's, just know that you absolutely don't need them. Learn to anchor in with your tie-in rope. GO
A double-length sling with a couple over-hand knots in it is an inexpensive substitute for a PAS -- which is what I meant by "or equivalent".
But, yes, I agree that learning to tie-in with the rope is also a useful skill to know. I find it comes up a lot more on trad multi-pitch than sport multi-pitch.
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