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lena_chita
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Sep 18, 2015, 2:41 PM
Post #105176 of 105309 (6247 views)
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Re: [granite_grrl] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
So I wuz out for a longerish ride yesterday. Was almost at 45km, 15 km left to go, when some bug hit my in the face, went behind my sunglasses and stung me!

So now I'm in a bad mood, and the last 15km sucked, but other than it being a little sore where I got stung (between my eyebrow and eyelid) it wuz okay. Noticed a bit of swelling before I went to bed last night, but still not a big deal.

Eye is totally swollen this morning and I Ned to go over to the states and pick some stuff up. Even though I'm kinda ugly right now, there are still far uglier people who cross every day. I just don't want to be hassled about the stuff I'm bringing back to Canada,

Oh noez!

The stings around the eye swell horribly. I got stung by a bee in the eyelid when I was a little kid, and then again in college in the corner of the eye close to the bridge of the nose. Total shut-eye miserableness for couple days.

Are you a big sunglasses kinda gal? Does help some with people not staring you in horrible fascination.


Partner cracklover


Sep 18, 2015, 3:42 PM
Post #105177 of 105309 (6241 views)
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Re: [granite_grrl] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
So I wuz out for a longerish ride yesterday. Was almost at 45km, 15 km left to go, when some bug hit my in the face, went behind my sunglasses and stung me!

So now I'm in a bad mood, and the last 15km sucked, but other than it being a little sore where I got stung (between my eyebrow and eyelid) it wuz okay. Noticed a bit of swelling before I went to bed last night, but still not a big deal.

Eye is totally swollen this morning and I Ned to go over to the states and pick some stuff up. Even though I'm kinda ugly right now, there are still far uglier people who cross every day. I just don't want to be hassled about the stuff I'm bringing back to Canada,

Unless you plan to smuggle diamonds under an eye patch, and this will make your bulge bigger, I think you're probably safe.

GO


dr_feelgood


Sep 18, 2015, 5:50 PM
Post #105178 of 105309 (6232 views)
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Re: [granite_grrl] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
So I wuz out for a longerish ride yesterday. Was almost at 45km, 15 km left to go, when some bug hit my in the face, went behind my sunglasses and stung me!

So now I'm in a bad mood, and the last 15km sucked, but other than it being a little sore where I got stung (between my eyebrow and eyelid) it wuz okay. Noticed a bit of swelling before I went to bed last night, but still not a big deal.

Eye is totally swollen this morning and I Ned to go over to the states and pick some stuff up. Even though I'm kinda ugly right now, there are still far uglier people who cross every day. I just don't want to be hassled about the stuff I'm bringing back to Canada,

Just fill a bunch of balloons and swallow them. The border patrol rarely induces vomiting.


granite_grrl


Sep 18, 2015, 10:12 PM
Post #105179 of 105309 (6221 views)
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Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
So I wuz out for a longerish ride yesterday. Was almost at 45km, 15 km left to go, when some bug hit my in the face, went behind my sunglasses and stung me!

So now I'm in a bad mood, and the last 15km sucked, but other than it being a little sore where I got stung (between my eyebrow and eyelid) it wuz okay. Noticed a bit of swelling before I went to bed last night, but still not a big deal.

Eye is totally swollen this morning and I Ned to go over to the states and pick some stuff up. Even though I'm kinda ugly right now, there are still far uglier people who cross every day. I just don't want to be hassled about the stuff I'm bringing back to Canada,

Oh noez!

The stings around the eye swell horribly. I got stung by a bee in the eyelid when I was a little kid, and then again in college in the corner of the eye close to the bridge of the nose. Total shut-eye miserableness for couple days.

Are you a big sunglasses kinda gal? Does help some with people not staring you in horrible fascination.

I have no bee allergies so the swelling was just a bit inconvenient, mostly been feeling like heavy eye lids. Swelling has gone down since this morning too.

One more thing was coming tomorrow so I'm waiting till Sunday to run over and do my pick up. Going to declare this stuff, but when the fridge comes in I think I'll make plans for a weekend trip.


lena_chita
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Sep 21, 2015, 5:38 PM
Post #105180 of 105309 (6192 views)
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Re: [granite_grrl] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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Weak-end report:

Conditions are starting to get nice. Woo! Spent couple days almost-sending (and we know what THAT means!). But still felt good about it.


granite_grrl


Sep 23, 2015, 2:02 PM
Post #105181 of 105309 (6131 views)
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Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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Truck Fridge is here... Well not here, in the Bufferzone at a friend's place but still.....

It's Nathan's birthday weekend, and I don't really have anything for him (other than a sweet van). Going away up North I think....maybe first weekend of October I should head south? Would love to get to the Gunks.


snoopy138


Sep 27, 2015, 11:18 PM
Post #105182 of 105309 (6068 views)
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Re: [tripperjm] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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tripperjm wrote:
camhead wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
tripperjm wrote:
camhead wrote:
Then, went hard on the permadrawed cave routes this weekend. Citizens of B_ET, get your everything ready cuz Ima SPRAY...

Saturday: climbed at the Hole. Sent Blood Raid (13a) and Lactic Acid Bath (12+) back to back. Rested, talked shit, then flashed Devil Doll (12+). Then one hung the short, bouldery Against the Grain.

Sunday: Coleseum. Warmed up on Apollo, then one hung both Pod and MRSA Seat (both 13a/b). Drank a beer, did Apollo again, drank another beer, did Apollo yet again.

Monday: Was fucking thrashed.

mumbles under breath..... Gawd I fuking hate sprayers!!!1

smiles Hummm.... Must be sum other, softer Hole, cuz I don't remember ewe sending anything at teh Real Hole?

Just an idea.... Cut teh spray, until ewe actually due a root that is knot as soft as your penish was, walking out of teh Real Hole that last day?

[micdrop]

Teh Gnu is just soft.

sighs...... yea I get that,

Still, why ewe has to drop awl those numbers? WHY??????

Awl I could think of, while I was getting soaked down, was that teh clamhed has become teh medusa....... And it sickened me.

wow, that is awfully cruel.


climbingtrash


Sep 30, 2015, 9:16 PM
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Re: [climbs4fun] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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climbs4fun wrote:
camhead wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
Walking to work this morning, looking at the frozen footprints in the ice, I noticed that I am DEFINITELY not the only person wearing crampons over my shoes.

I was really happy to have them, too. Sigh... I wish this winter would end already!

No schit. It has snowed essentially every day since I've arrived in NYC. We're having some great ski days and ice climbing, but I'm missing those occasional days of crisp sun at the NRG. Am getting stronger in the gyms here, though. It will pay off.

almost makes me feel guilty for having all the windows open. almost

guilt iz fore loozers.


climbingtrash


Sep 30, 2015, 9:19 PM
Post #105184 of 105309 (5975 views)
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Re: [camhead] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
camhead wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
Walking to work this morning, looking at the frozen footprints in the ice, I noticed that I am DEFINITELY not the only person wearing crampons over my shoes.

I was really happy to have them, too. Sigh... I wish this winter would end already!

No schit. It has snowed essentially every day since I've arrived in NYC. We're having some great ski days and ice climbing, but I'm missing those occasional days of crisp sun at the NRG. Am getting stronger in the gyms here, though. It will pay off.

it's supposed to be a high of 80 in the santa monicas this weke end. just yore weekly socak weather update.

Sunny and 50s out here. Can you send us some of your snow?

I'll send you some snow if you send us some mountains. After running around the Alps for the last couple of weeks I think I'd like to try skiing.

Pretty psyched on skiing now myself right now too, though it's pretty pathetic that I grew up in Yewtaw, but didn't really downhill ski until moved East.

I knew there wuz something a little weird about ewe.


climbingtrash


Sep 30, 2015, 9:22 PM
Post #105185 of 105309 (5975 views)
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Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
camhead wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
I guess that's why I bring it up here. I do feel I get some gains out of what I'm doing, but I'm not pushing hard enough to see anything significant.

That's why I like repeaters; they actually factor in a bit of the endurance aspect, and leave you feeling like you just got off a pumpy route at your limit by the end of the day.

The Manderson book will have better details, but the most important part of hanging bored is establishing your true failure point. Figure out how many reps you want to do (6 reps in a minute, each rep = 6 seconds hanging + 4 seconds rest), and then using the proper hold and/or weight added to get you to the failure point.

Failure point usually means that for the second or third to last rep, you start quivering and being REALLY tired. Then, for the very last rep, your fingers literally can't hold onto the edge. It might take a few seshes to gauge your failure point, but once you've got it, you can tailor all your workouts and weight additions to it.

+1

I like manderson book a lot. But I feel like you should take it as a starting point and then modify a bit (they suggest that, too, and Iv'e had discussions with mark and Mike over specifics)

For example, I don't add weight in 10lb increments on all holds. On most holds, I do 7.5 lb between set 1 and set 2 (or set 1, 2, and 3, if you are doing the advanced one). But for the smallest holds I actually only go up 5 lb between sets 1 and 2. And from one session to the next, I go up by 5 lb, until I start getting a lot of failures, towards the end, and then I start increasing by 2.5lb.

Also, I used to do 7 reps of (7 sec on/3 seconds off) in set 1, and then 6 reps, with increased weight, of (7s on/3s off). This is what mandersons call "intermediate workout".

Last cycle, I tried going to advanced workout, and I just couldn't do 7 reps, then 6 reps, then 5 reps. because in order to pick weights that i would be failing on on the 3rd set, I ended up with way too light a weight on the first set of 7 reps, it didn't feel like a good workout. then talking to Banz, he suggested that instead of 7 reps, 6 reps, 5 reps, I do 6 reps, 5 reps, 4 reps. It seemed to work much better for me (this is what I did in this cycle). I feel like I was getting a workout even on the1st set, and failing by 3rd set.

I guess we will see how, and if, the results pay out. I just finished the last set on hangboard this week. Starting campusing and bouldering now. (scared... but excited, too)

For me, taking 3.5-4 weeks to do dedicated hangboard, instead of fitting hangboard with climbing is SOOOO worth it. I think you should do that, instead of hangboard once or twice a week between climbing. I had started on january 13th, and the only climbing I had done in the past 4 weeks was just a little bit of easy stuff to warmup, with the emphasis on not getting pumped.

Well, yesterday I got on a bunch of new routes, in the grade that I would have been able to do after couple tries, but maybe not on the first go, and it was like, wow, this route-setter used to set much harder, his routes seem so much easier now... oh wait, this 2nd route-setter routes have gotten easier, too. Oh wait, this 3rd guy also seems to be setting easier now...
It is possible that 3 different route-setters set 8 new routes, and graded all of them softer than they used to grade before, but maybe a likelier explanation is that I am just a little bit stronger. Tongue

And I get so much more psyched with the changing cycles, too...

I'm knot reading ^^that^^


climbingtrash


Sep 30, 2015, 9:25 PM
Post #105186 of 105309 (5975 views)
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Registered: Jan 19, 2006
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Re: [dr_feelgood] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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dr_feelgood wrote:
macherry wrote:
camhead wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
camhead wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
Walking to work this morning, looking at the frozen footprints in the ice, I noticed that I am DEFINITELY not the only person wearing crampons over my shoes.

I was really happy to have them, too. Sigh... I wish this winter would end already!

No schit. It has snowed essentially every day since I've arrived in NYC. We're having some great ski days and ice climbing, but I'm missing those occasional days of crisp sun at the NRG. Am getting stronger in the gyms here, though. It will pay off.

it's supposed to be a high of 80 in the santa monicas this weke end. just yore weekly socak weather update.

Sunny and 50s out here. Can you send us some of your snow?

I'll send you some snow if you send us some mountains. After running around the Alps for the last couple of weeks I think I'd like to try skiing.

Pretty psyched on skiing now myself right now too, though it's pretty pathetic that I grew up in Yewtaw, but didn't really downhill ski until moved East.

that is pathetic. what's up with that!

no snow anywhere out west. we've had rain for the past week. it's craptastic

I feel your pain. I do.

If that pain lead to a lyfe ending self inflicted wound that wood be grate.


climbingtrash


Sep 30, 2015, 9:27 PM
Post #105187 of 105309 (5975 views)
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Re: [dr_feelgood] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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dr_feelgood wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
camhead wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
Walking to work this morning, looking at the frozen footprints in the ice, I noticed that I am DEFINITELY not the only person wearing crampons over my shoes.

I was really happy to have them, too. Sigh... I wish this winter would end already!

No schit. It has snowed essentially every day since I've arrived in NYC. We're having some great ski days and ice climbing, but I'm missing those occasional days of crisp sun at the NRG. Am getting stronger in the gyms here, though. It will pay off.

it's supposed to be a high of 80 in the santa monicas this weke end. just yore weekly socak weather update.

Sunny and 50s out here. Can you send us some of your snow?

do we haz any to zend ewe?

When ya'll are drinking yore own urine, then we can say the Califronia drout is official.

every tyme I pee into teh Virgin river I feel good knowing I'm helping a Californian owt.


climbingtrash


Sep 30, 2015, 9:31 PM
Post #105188 of 105309 (5975 views)
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Re: [granite_grrl] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
Another question - how strict are you guys on your training? During a training cycle do you still get out climbing much, or is it only during certain phases on stuff that compliments that phase?

Oh fore Hells sake, just go climbing already. Becuz yore only cheating yoreself.


climbingtrash


Sep 30, 2015, 9:33 PM
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Re: [dr_feelgood] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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dr_feelgood wrote:
Sunny and 60. I'm wearing shorts and chacos.

Fuck you, February.

I remember that! Good tymes climbing in teh desert in February.


climbingtrash


Sep 30, 2015, 9:34 PM
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Re: [camhead] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
Sunny and 60. I'm wearing shorts and chacos.

Fuck you, February.

Fuck you doc. I don't remember the last time I was truly warm.

Poynts and laffs! And it's knot far off again either.


climbingtrash


Sep 30, 2015, 9:43 PM
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climbingtrash


Sep 30, 2015, 9:45 PM
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Re: [cracklover] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
It's 49 in my apartment, and likely to get colder before it gets warmer. The furnace repair guy was here for the fourth time today. Each time he was sure he fixed it (this time included). Still not working. It has been over a week.

GO

jez-ust! yore still here?!?


climbingtrash


Sep 30, 2015, 9:47 PM
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Re: [caughtinside] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
I think the Creek might be prime right now too.

stay outta teh creke dead beat!


climbingtrash


Sep 30, 2015, 9:50 PM
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Re: [cracklover] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
I think the Creek might be prime right now too.
I bet it is....

Ya, I picked a shitty time to move back east. Not that there's any good time, but... seems like CO and UT are just perfect rock weather, have been most of the winter.

Grr.

Oh, did I mention our pipes froze over the weekend? Ya, that was fun. Only plus in all this is that our landlord gave us a break in the rent this month because of all the crap we've been dealing with.

GO

Angelic


climbingtrash


Sep 30, 2015, 9:53 PM
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Re: [camhead] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
I'm still waiting for the cell phone vid of me firing your project.

Zent. The vid, not the prodge.

In other camhead weakness gnus, I think my friend Pat, who's an unmitigated badass, might be psyched on doing Moonlight Butt with me in April. Woo!

Looking back it seem there should have been moar emphasis on teh werd "might"?


climbingtrash


Sep 30, 2015, 9:55 PM
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Re: [epoch] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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epoch wrote:
camhead wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
I'm still waiting for the cell phone vid of me firing your project.

Zent. The vid, not the prodge.

In other camhead weakness gnus, I think my friend Pat, who's an unmitigated badass, might be psyched on doing Moonlight Butt with me in April. Woo!
you going to meet up with bandyjosh out there? seems like that rowt is going to see some akshun in apr.

It wuz a phucking Conga line.


climbingtrash


Sep 30, 2015, 9:58 PM
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Re: [granite_grrl] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
Ah. I know jak had one of the lower crux. Oh well.

Geerz tawk: I've been sharpening my picks and pons... Hahaha!!! That is not true. I have been climbing with my friends ange draws for about s year now, and they are amazing!! I think they weigh half as much as my spirit draws and you don't feel them when climbing and hanging draws. So I looked at getting some, but they are $27 a draw!! Holy crap.

They are crap to clip.

I've heard they are a dream to hamfist! Angelic


climbingtrash


Sep 30, 2015, 10:05 PM
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durp


climbingtrash


Sep 30, 2015, 10:05 PM
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Re: [dr_feelgood] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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????


climbingtrash


Sep 30, 2015, 10:05 PM
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Angelic

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