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a-e-jones
Dec 29, 2008, 9:24 PM
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so until i moved over to france in september i've always considered resin to be worse for the rock then chalk but now that i'm here its the only think i can find and the "locals" swear that its better then chalk due to "chemical reactions" (which they can't tell me what happens when chalk touches their precious sandstone) so after a quick search i wasn't able to come up with anything other then "dont use it because its bad for the rock" can someone please tell me what excatly happens when you use resin on limestone/granite or any sandstone in north america, and what happens when you use chalk on any sandstone or limestone in france
my limited experience is that resin quickly makes the rock glassy and tough to clean while chalk washes off with just a bit of water and a pat with a t-shirt so it seams that the locals are just stuck in there old ways
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sungam
Dec 29, 2008, 9:39 PM
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I think the main issues are people not washing off the chalk and the holds getting gunked out and slick, in addition to the combination of POF and chalk, which gets slick. POF on it's own is claimed to not make the rock slick. All this info is on the official fontableu site for which I have no link.
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a-e-jones
Dec 29, 2008, 9:54 PM
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ya i've been poking around the bleau.info website but i still can't find any mention of it
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IclimbNAKED
Dec 29, 2008, 10:00 PM
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There's a reason pof is almost ubiquitously prohibited. It apparently gums up the rock and the only way to achieve friction is to use more pof.
While excessive chalk can also gum up the rock and make it slick and "greasy," it is nonetheless a hygroscopic salt and will absorb water. From my experience, it appears to become suspended in water, not dissolving, but it can easily be washed away.
I've never climbed with pof, and I'm sure there are justifications people might present to advocate its use; however, chalk seems like a less destructive and more widely accepted method for keeping one's friction with respect to the rock high enough to stay on.
"When in Rome..." Just use the pof while in Fontainebleau, but chalk elsewhere; they might be stuck in an old way, but I guarantee you'll get less flack for being one of the thousands who contributes to (what we perceive as) the problem with pof, rather than trying to introduce chalk as the new convention...
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a-e-jones
Dec 29, 2008, 10:09 PM
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thank you very much
now any advocates for pof online?
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johnwesely
Dec 30, 2008, 12:07 AM
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I have always heard that resin permanently polishes the rock, and that most of the classic problems at Font were ruined from its use.
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a-e-jones
Dec 30, 2008, 12:13 AM
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ya i've been working on some projects wiht the locals in a new area and over the last 3 months (area was opened up oct) iv'e noticed the rock severely glassing up from what i look at as minimal pof use
while on that note there is a family who has a couple of boulders in there backyard and have only used chalk on them and they are in MUCH better shape and been climbed on years longer then the previously mentioned pebbles
and i just had a conversation wiht a frenchie about using pof at the gym, apparently they dont use it because it'll cake on and smooth out over the texture of there holds, maybe the gym rats here can start a revolution
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curt
Dec 30, 2008, 1:39 AM
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IclimbNAKED wrote: "When in Rome..." Just use the pof while in Fontainebleau, but chalk elsewhere; they might be stuck in an old way, but I guarantee you'll get less flack for being one of the thousands who contributes to (what we perceive as) the problem with pof, rather than trying to introduce chalk as the new convention...
Except that even most climbers at Bleau no longer use pof, they use chalk instead--and this is universally true on all of the harder problems found there. All but the most retarded Frenchies now realize just how bad pof is for the rock. I saw some absolutely beauitiul problems at 95.2 utterly destroyed by the use of pof. What a shame.
Curt
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rockie
Dec 30, 2008, 1:51 AM
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Good to know. I never heard of resin before for climbing.
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a-e-jones
Dec 30, 2008, 2:17 PM
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most locals i've met only use pof
i guess most of the locals are retarded
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curt
Dec 31, 2008, 2:09 AM
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a-e-jones wrote: most locals i've met only use pof i guess most of the locals are retarded
Maybe they're just weakmos. Are they doing the black circuits or the harder individual white problems? I bet not.
Curt
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ghisino
Jan 1, 2009, 2:08 PM
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curt wrote: a-e-jones wrote: most locals i've met only use pof i guess most of the locals are retarded Maybe they're just weakmos. Are they doing the black circuits or the harder individual white problems? I bet not. Curt
+1
also, a personal story on pof.
when I started climbing 10 yrs ago, I've read something about bleau and pof being used there, and tried to make my own : simply taking resin from a tree, drying it and crushing it.
at first it seems to really work, expecially on unusual surfaces : I used to "train" climbing a wooden window frame and it was amazing on that.
but after you use it for a while on the same surface (the door frame in my case) you start to notice odd deposits that are very hard to remove.
I stopped because my mother was complaining, before reading why pof is bad on rock as well :D
basically pof glues to whatever surface it is used on (and works as an adhesive powder, not as a drying one).
When used over rock, it fills the pores and makes it slick and glassy much faster than anything else-in comparison, standard handhold and foothold polishing takes a more time.
btw the main reason why some bleau locals are still pro-pof is a sort of subculture.
they identify chalk with strangers, expecially brits ("roastbeefs" as they call 'em).
So, since some of them locals don't like strangers, they don't like the white traces as well and fight their anti-chalk crusade.
In the most extreme form of this, they also keep using and defending pof with questionable arguments :
"it is natural" (false, the resin is treated in chemical factories before getting on the market)
"it will eventually dry with the sun and fall down" (could be, but takes years and requres tha no one adds new pof anyway)
"it doeas damage every rock type on the world excluding fontainebleau "grés" sandstone" (odd...and why for instance shoud it be bad on other sandstones, if this is true for fontainebleau? Why people in other sandstone areas will kill you if you use pof?)
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ironmike
Dec 5, 2015, 1:50 AM
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a-e-jones wrote: thank you very much now any advocates for pof online?
I think it's better than chalk, and I can honestly say I don't give a ratfu$k if it glasses up the rock.
The clueless gym rats and pad posse douchebags don't care about their impact on the rock, so I'm going to enjoy it on my terms. |
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sungam
Dec 5, 2015, 7:46 AM
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I can never decide if the "I'm a cunt and proud" crowd are hilarious to laugh at because, well, ~edgey~, or if it's just really disappointing to see someone be selfish.
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sungam
Dec 5, 2015, 7:49 AM
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sungam wrote: I can never decide if the "I'm a cunt and proud" crowd are hilarious to laugh at because, well, ~edgey~, or if it's just really disappointing to see someone be selfish.
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ironmike
Dec 5, 2015, 12:17 PM
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Oh. Name calling... you really hurt my feelings.
Ya know what.. ? My wife has two cunts and I'm one of them. Faggot.
 p
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sungam
Dec 5, 2015, 6:58 PM
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Okay, definitely back into the realm of hilarious.
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ironmike
Dec 6, 2015, 1:13 AM
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Oh how cute! Faggot can play with graphics.
Wow! You're so talented.
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sungam
Dec 6, 2015, 1:37 AM
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Don't cut yourself on your extreme edge m8r
P.s. lmfao are you actually calling someone a faggot on the internet
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ubu
Dec 6, 2015, 9:15 PM
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ironmike wrote: Oh how cute! Faggot can play with graphics.
Quoted for...well, just because.
Welcome to 2015 bro.
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curt
Dec 9, 2015, 11:03 PM
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ironmike wrote: a-e-jones wrote: thank you very much now any advocates for pof online? I just got back from Font, and I swear by poof. I think it's better than chalk, and I can honestly say I don't give a ratfu$k if it glasses up the rock...
a-e-jones hasn't logged into RC.com since January, 2011. You'll have to settle for the rest of us making fun of you.
Curt
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ironmike
Dec 9, 2015, 11:52 PM
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Curt
I know you're part bouldering's old guard, and since you used to climb with Professor Gill, I won't tell you to go fuck yourself.
Cheers
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curt
Dec 10, 2015, 12:44 AM
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ironmike wrote: Curt I know you're part bouldering's old guard, and since you used to climb with Professor Gill, I won't tell you to go fuck yourself. Cheers
Much appreciated.
Curt
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