Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing:
Best trad climber?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Trad Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 
First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All


fiend


Jun 25, 2001, 4:06 AM
Post #1 of 38 (14233 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 25, 2001
Posts: 3669

Best trad climber?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Trevor started this in the sport forum so I thought I'd throw it around the others.

Who, in your opinion, are the greates trad climbers, both past and present?


kagunkie


Jun 25, 2001, 4:46 AM
Post #2 of 38 (14233 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 14, 2000
Posts: 731

Best trad climber? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The best Trad climbers hmmm thats an interesting question.Maby we could take a look at Climbing In North America to find a few candidates or no maby we could look in Czechoslovacia or Germany or Italy. Its a matter of opinion. I know one thing the greatest climbers iv ever met usually had the smallest egos.


nctxcllimer


Jun 29, 2001, 5:25 AM
Post #3 of 38 (14233 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 1, 2000
Posts: 10

Best trad climber? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In my small opinion, I like to stay with the Americans. My number 1 would be Lynn Hill with her unrepeated one day free assent of the worlds most famous rock climb, THE NOSE. I also have a lot of respect for Tommy Caldwell for his trad acheivements.


wandt


Jul 10, 2001, 10:09 AM
Post #4 of 38 (14233 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 3, 2000
Posts: 341

Best trad climber? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I think for the top trad climbers we have to look across the pond to Great Britain. With their bolting ethics (or more prevalent anti-bolting ethics) their trad game is the best there is. Leo Houlding has put up the world's technically hardest trad routes- some protected with skyhooks rather than cams or nuts!! The others' names slip my mind at the moment.


ramylson


Jul 12, 2001, 5:23 AM
Post #5 of 38 (14233 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 17, 2000
Posts: 317

Best trad climber? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Lynn Hill definitely take my vote for best trad climber in the States.. but, I have the biggest respect for all the grit stone climbers over in England. Talk about mental edge. I believe it was the last issue of Climbing that covered a bit of the grit ethics.. Otherwise, definitely get your hands on the flick, Hard Grit. I'm just in awe, no matter how many times I watch it.

"ramylson"


fiend


Jul 12, 2001, 5:35 AM
Post #6 of 38 (14233 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 25, 2001
Posts: 3669

Best trad climber? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Those grit guys are pretty hardcore but Tommy's got some achievements going for him to.

I also agree that Lynn Hill is up there. Nose all free in a day, anyone remember that one?

Ron Kauk is high in my books Magic Line, 5.14 Trad, and not grit free solo to piece 5 feet from top trad either.

Peter Croft? Known fro soloing sure but he's a tradman at heart.

What about the old schoolers? Harding and Bridwell, and Robbins.


wandt


Jul 12, 2001, 8:29 AM
Post #7 of 38 (14233 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 3, 2000
Posts: 341

Best trad climber? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Peter Croft is a local boy! From Whistler I believe. His stuff is all over the place here, including a 5.13+ trad line in Murrin!


wandt


Jul 12, 2001, 8:36 AM
Post #8 of 38 (14233 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 3, 2000
Posts: 341

Best trad climber? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

And guys... the Nose has bolts. it's not pure trad. It involves a lot of trad, but there are still a lot of bolts.
Is this still a trad route? Or is it a "bastard" route?
Hey! Maybe someone from this site can be the first to free climb the nose all trad!


woza


Jul 13, 2001, 8:56 AM
Post #9 of 38 (14233 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 3, 2001
Posts: 15

Best trad climber? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I AM


kolby


Jul 17, 2001, 7:59 AM
Post #10 of 38 (14233 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 22, 2001
Posts: 25

Best trad climber? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Ray Jardine, the inventor of Friends climbing protection, the 5.13, and hangdogging. He is an outdoor visionary who has gone on to completly revolutionize long distance backpacking and paddeling. Quite possilby the greatest outdoorsman of all time.

-Kolby Jardine


compclimber


Jul 18, 2001, 3:52 PM
Post #11 of 38 (14233 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 22, 2001
Posts: 683

Best trad climber? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

 I'm surprised no one mentioned Hidetaka Suzuki the guy did 13c trad in like 85 or 86


learnintoclimb


Jul 23, 2001, 8:12 PM
Post #12 of 38 (14233 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 30, 2000
Posts: 36

Best trad climber? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

My list is pretty much the same as Fiends earlier post

Lynn Hill, Tommy Caldwell, And Ron Kauk
and you can't forget those guys back in the olden days

[ This Message was edited by: learnintoclimb on 2001-07-23 13:14 ]


climber1


Jul 25, 2001, 5:31 AM
Post #13 of 38 (14233 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 5, 2000
Posts: 484

Best trad climber? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I would say Peter Croft. There are many others to choose from


jds100


Aug 23, 2001, 3:11 AM
Post #14 of 38 (14233 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 5, 2001
Posts: 1008

Best trad climber? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'd go with the Hubers, from what I've read about the trad routes they've put up: LONG multi-pitch, 13+; and many more than one such route!

Hard Grit is the scariest climbing video I've seen, but when you add in the continuous and sustained nature of the Huber climbs.....

By the way, what about Bernd Arnold in the former East Germany?


benjo


Oct 12, 2001, 9:37 PM
Post #15 of 38 (14233 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 28, 2001
Posts: 40

Best trad climber? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

There are routes with bolts that are trad routes. The nose is a trad route. What about runout friction climbs that the only gear there is are bolts. Those are trad routes too. Just because there are bolts doesn't always mean that it's a sport climb. The difference has to do with commitment more than anything else. At least in my opinion.


clipngo


Nov 16, 2001, 2:17 AM
Post #16 of 38 (14233 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 12, 2001
Posts: 66

Best trad climber? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I agree with benjo. Just because there are some bolts, doesn't mean that it is not a trad route. There are some trad route that could not be climbed without bolts, especially when you get into the multipitch side of the house. Some guide books will go as go as far as not calling it a sport route if there is as little as one piece of gear needed for the climb.


Partner rrrADAM


Nov 17, 2001, 2:42 AM
Post #17 of 38 (14233 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 19, 1999
Posts: 17553

Best trad climber? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Lynn Hill this era, and Royal Robbins for the Old Schoolers.


wallhammer


Nov 17, 2001, 3:48 AM
Post #18 of 38 (14233 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 26, 2001
Posts: 265

Best trad climber? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

ditto fiends list with bridwell at top as he is still climbing and setting very hard routes.


crackwhore


Nov 19, 2001, 8:00 AM
Post #19 of 38 (14233 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 19, 2001
Posts: 195

Best trad climber? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Beau Geste ?

Moonlight Buttress?

Trench Warfare?

all groundbreaking routes ahead of thier time.
no fanfare,no spray- just core.

who am i?

maybe not the greatest but...


crackwhore


Nov 20, 2001, 11:42 PM
Post #20 of 38 (14233 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 19, 2001
Posts: 195

Best trad climber? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

you win an all expense paid trip to-

THE HALL OF MIRRORS


froggy


Nov 21, 2001, 12:31 AM
Post #21 of 38 (14233 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 4, 2001
Posts: 244

Best trad climber? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Lynn Hill Rules! and she is a girl too!!!
YEAH!!!!!!!
Sorry boys, I think it is sooooo bad ass that a girl has the record for such an incredible achievement! She ROCKS!


kadoj26


Nov 21, 2001, 3:11 AM
Post #22 of 38 (14233 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 24, 2000
Posts: 15

Best trad climber? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Best Trad Climbers I think have to be Hidetaka Suzuki and Bob Scarpelli (Laramie Local).


crackwhore


Nov 21, 2001, 3:12 AM
Post #23 of 38 (14233 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 19, 2001
Posts: 195

Best trad climber? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Lynn Hill... ahhh yes

peristroika in a long historic day...

levitation 29...

coatumundi whiteout...

a brilliant and shining star.


rocmonkey


Nov 23, 2001, 9:53 AM
Post #24 of 38 (14233 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 26, 2001
Posts: 292

Best trad climber? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

No one can deny that the two best trad climbers in the world (while they were still climbing) were:

1. Dan Osmond
2. Bart Simpson

Not necessarily in that order...

Dan tragically died doing what he did best - Ignoring Respect
Bart was grounded by Homer for - chucking cherry bombs into the toilet

breathe stone
R C


mnutz


Nov 24, 2001, 4:38 AM
Post #25 of 38 (14233 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 22, 2001
Posts: 334

Best trad climber? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Any Dean Potter fans out there? Man, that guy is awesome!

First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All

Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Trad Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook