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djnibs
Feb 26, 2003, 1:02 AM
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I have taken a course and have done lots of top ropin and know how to tie using webbing. i have enough (i think) webbing to setup a nice top rope. I have purchased a new rope and with it came a nice 20' section of 7mm cord. My question is, can i use this cord as an anchor, and if yes, how????
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vegastradguy
Feb 26, 2003, 1:10 AM
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yes, you can. and for how, go buy Climbing Anchors by John Long or Freedom of the Hills for some nice pictures on how to do it, or (even though i'm sure people are sick of hearing it) get someone who knows how to do it to show you how. hands on is the best way to learn that.
this way, you can actually see what you're supposed to do, because i don't want to confuse you in any way at all.....
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godsmybelayer
Feb 26, 2003, 1:35 AM
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I would never use cord, unless maybe, and I mean maybe it was that stuff that holds more than your carabiners....spectra something I think, but it's really slick so watch your knots. I would use sewn runners if anything other than webbing!!!
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josher
Feb 26, 2003, 1:35 AM
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I climbed with a guy who said he knew his stuff. When I topped out and say his rats nest of criss-crossing slings and knots on knots, i had to slap the dude and give him a lesson. Any one part of his set-up could have come apart at any time.
Get a book, or instruction to make sure. Cordletts are good, just know your area. In Joshua Tree, webbing or even heaver static line is much better then a skinny cord.
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rokshoxbkr19
Feb 26, 2003, 2:12 AM
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cordelettes are awesome!!! They started over in Europe and then American guides starting using them. Nothing to worry about as long as you equalize your system. That John Long book is a really good investment too.
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cobra652004
Feb 26, 2003, 2:43 AM
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http://www.gunks.com/index.php?pageid=65&pagenum=1&smGroup=2&smID=6
has a good article about constructing anchors w/ cordolettes. Check it out.
-Brian
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arrettinator
Feb 26, 2003, 3:29 PM
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Is this for TR with natural anchor points at the top of the climb, or fixed/placed gear? For natural anchor points, trees & rocks, I go with 10.5mm static line as one big frickin cordalette. With fixed/placed gear refer to the above post. Runners and spectra are good, but like said above, watch your knots w/ spectra.
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valygrl
Feb 26, 2003, 4:35 PM
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Cordalette is OK, but there is a potential issue of it wearing against the rock. Don't use it if it will be touching the rock - it can wear through FAST. Yeah I'm speaking from experience - no epic, but a 50% worn-through toprope anchor at JT taught me that lesson. If it is free hanging, go ahead and use it. Webbing is not so susceptible to this problem, so it is prefereable if the anchor stuff touches anything.
I do use cordalette as part of anchors for multi-pitch trad climbs, love it for that. I tie the cordalette in a loop, attaching the ends to each other with a double fisherman know, not tie loops in the ends as shown in beyond_gravity's post above - "webolette style". I think that would be a mistake. Can't quite put my finger on why I think that right now...
Good luck!
Anna
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jumaringjeff
Feb 26, 2003, 5:36 PM
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It all depends on the situation.
If I'm climbing somewhere and the anchors are a fair distance from the edge of the cliff, I'll use long webbing or static line.
If I'm somewhere that has anchors near the edge and a cordelette reaches, I'll use just that. Please note, when I use this rig, I use spectra or Maxim Tech Cord (they are more resistant to abrasion). Back up yer knots and make sure they have long tails (6" or more).
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vegastradguy
Feb 26, 2003, 6:43 PM
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there was a long discussion on how using it 'web-o-lette' style that wasnt built at the manufacturer could be dangerous. i'm going to be lazy and not look it up. however, coming from the manufacturer, it's bartacked and rated. if you tie it yourself, you're reducing the strength of the system by 20% with each figure 8 knot you tie.
basically, tie your cordlette in a loop with double or triple fishermans, leave long tails and use a figure 8 or overhand to statically equalize the system.
however, make sure to buy a book and try it at home to make sure you are familiar with the systems before you try it on real rock.
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pywiak
Feb 26, 2003, 6:53 PM
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I prefer a 30' chunk of climbing rope for setting toprope anchors. It can be rigged many different ways to provide redundancy in the anchor system, and doesn't wear out nearly as fast as webbing or a cordalette. After it is too beat for toproping, it is still good for towing those ultra dependable climber vehicles.
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jumaringjeff
Feb 26, 2003, 7:30 PM
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On the contrary, I've got 2 lengths of webbing and 2 'chunks' of 11mm static rope for the last couple of years. Both has seen equal use, and the rope is worn out a lot more than the webbing.
Plus, static rope is a lot heavier to carry, and costs more.
I'm not necessarily saying one is better than the other, because both do the same job properly. Just pointing out the pros and cons. I think it comes down to personal preference.
If your anchor hangs over a sharp edge, a good practice is to pad the edge OR use a protective sheath on your webbing/rope (there are various methods used out there; search the forums, I'm sure there's a discussion about it). This practice lessens the concern for abrasion.
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beyond_gravity
Feb 27, 2003, 12:56 AM
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you don't have to worry about how strong a cordelette is when you are top roping.
I tie the cordelette in a loop if it is a 2 point anchor, or a 3 point anchor with all points relativly close together.
If it's a 3 or 4 point anchor with pieces all over the place, I set it up as the picture above. Weakist point on a cordalette is going to be the figure on the main point...2 strands of cord at 10kN each = 20kN. Subtract 20% because of the knot...you have an anchor that can withstand 16.7 kN....plenty strong.
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vegastradguy
Feb 27, 2003, 1:32 AM
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beyond-
yes, but learning to do it, you should learn to do it the best way, one that will work in any given situation, that way there's no confusion over which way is best. then, over time, as you learn more about anchors and climbing, you can make the call as to what risks you are willing to take when building an anchor.
just my humble opinion.
ps- you should always worry about anchor strength when top roping. you are putting your life on it, you know.....
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