|
|
|
|
andyk
Jan 5, 2003, 11:02 PM
Post #26 of 37
(5889 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 4, 2002
Posts: 26
|
The first solo I ever did was Auroa - which was quite a trip and a steep learning curve! I used the coninuas loop method and the main mistake I kept doing was crossing my haul/lead line with my lead line so I coudn't pull up my tag rack. I did this 3 times on pitch 13 and had to rap back every time!
Anyway I didn't bother with a slippery knot as I just thought it was asking for trouble. Anyway I was on the long hook traverse on the last pitch that leads to the Trip. All I rember is hooking for a long way to a tiny fixed head. I sudenly hear a noise and look back to see my 70 metre 10.5 spilling out of my rope bag, going faster and faster. The next thing that happens is my fifi pops and my tag racks drops 70 metres, followed by my haul line! All I could do is stand on that tiny head and watch it happen and wate for the plumet. Somehow the head held! Since then I've been using a Verm cargo hook instead of a normal fifi which seems to reduce thoes kinds of %@#$ ups.
Andy
|
|
|
|
|
twrock
Jan 6, 2003, 12:24 AM
Post #27 of 37
(5889 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 8, 2002
Posts: 223
|
Chad, if you don't find that Verm hook, have a look at the fifi on the ClimbAxe website: http://www.climbaxe.com/big_wall_gear/big_wall_gear.html If they actually sell you the one pictured (ask first), it looks like it has a very pronounced hook.
|
|
|
|
|
passthepitonspete
Jan 9, 2003, 4:42 PM
Post #28 of 37
(5889 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2001
Posts: 2183
|
Holy frig, Andy! I got sweaty hands reading about that one!
Yes - on traverses, the lead rope can often come flying out of the bag! Its weight will pull out the slippery overhand knot, too. This happens routinely on traverses, but has never resulted in my tag rack falling off.
At least not yet.
This is a technique for experts only as you can die using this system if you don't have it properly dialled. Practise it first on easy stuff. I haven't fully explained it because of its complexity. I need to write the post.
As for not charlie-foxtrotting it, after six big wall solos I finally have it dialled so I don't blow it. But back in '99 on the fifth pitch of Native Son, I blew it and had to aid back sideways to fix it!
Please read johnhenry's comments above because he is Spot On.
"On a toujours la choix."
|
|
|
|
|
iamthewallress
Jan 9, 2003, 8:29 PM
Post #29 of 37
(5889 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 2463
|
Simple tech tip for keeping your rope in the bag and mitigating snarls:
Run it out of the bag through a velcro quickdraw placed a couple of feet above bag (or however high it needs to be to counteract the weight of the slack coming out). It helps keep it in the bag and busts out the small kinks, yet will break apart if you get a true knot or tangle. Make sure that breaking strength is very, very, very low...like 10 lbs, so that you can break it if it hangs up on a knot.
|
|
|
|
|
eclarke98
Feb 25, 2003, 5:16 AM
Post #30 of 37
(5889 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 23, 2001
Posts: 127
|
I think there is seriously something wrong with me because I can't figure out how to tie this slippery knot correctly without the rope ending up through the biner after it comes untied. I understand what the knot is for and where it is supposed to go, I even know how to tie the specific slippery knot (unless there are two slippery overhand knots?) we are talking about, but no matter what I do the rope ends up through the biner. Could someone please just take a picture of the damn thing or just draw something to explain it. I know it's not supposed to be this difficult. Thanks in advance.
|
|
|
|
|
twrock
Feb 28, 2003, 2:02 AM
Post #31 of 37
(5889 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 8, 2002
Posts: 223
|
Ok Eddie, since no one who claims to know how to tie the slippery overhand knot has answered (I don't claim to know), I'll show you what I came up with. If this isn't "the" SO, maybe someone else will give you the real goods. So, please don't get mad at me if this is all wrong and you get yanked off the wall by your tag rack falling at terminal velocity. I'm just trying to be helpful.
http://www.geocities.com/taiwan_rock/so.html
(Geocities won't let me link directly, so you have to click.)
BTW, you do not open the gate while tying this knot. You start by simply pushing a bight of rope though the biner. The rope going down would be to your tag rack/whatever, and the rope going up would be to you.
Hope that helps.
|
|
|
|
|
passthepitonspete
Feb 28, 2003, 2:23 AM
Post #32 of 37
(5889 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2001
Posts: 2183
|
Hmmmm......
Let's have a click on this thar thang....
I would recommend you change to a wider-gate crab. I use these monster DMM guys. The knot is tied correctly because when you pull it from above, I can see that it falls free from the crab.
[Note - if you opened the carabiner gate when you tied the knot, you have blown it! Novices who wish to avoid rappelling to free their snagged tag rack might be advised to tape the gate shut before tying the knot, just in case. Take it from this former novice who has rappelled many times in the past....]
Also, you should chain the lower free end about five times through itself, so that you have a chain of knots, rather than just a single one. This is handy because as you pull the rope out of the bag, you will start to feel the chains popping, warning you that you have to tag NOW.
Now, here is a PERFECT Dr. Piton Mini Big Wall Tutorial subject.
The scene: The bear boxes of Camp 5, Yosemite, in the middle of the Curry Village parking lot - spring 2003.
The crowd gathers, and someone hands the doc a piece of cord and a carabiner.
He selects a willing participant from the audience [preferably]hottie] and stands her in the middle of the parking lot with arm outstretched holding the carabiner in hand.
In seven seconds flat, Dr. Piton AMAZES the crowd as he ties a slippery overhand knot with multiple chains, the very same knot he learned as a Boy Sprout that was a cool way to tie up his canoe.
Meanwhile, the camera pans round the crowd. The faces are nodding, and eyes are rolling.
The consensus is, "I can't fricking believe how easy that is! Why the heck didn't I get it before?! Sheesh!"
Miraculously, a cold beer appears in Dr. Piton's outstretched hand [HINT].
The lesson is concluded, as various BWT's and BWG's try their hand.
[At the knot, not the hottie....]
|
|
|
|
|
valygrl
Feb 28, 2003, 2:51 PM
Post #33 of 37
(5889 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 8, 2002
Posts: 247
|
Ron, you have proven a picture IS worth a thousand words. Thanks!
Pete, can you explain why you say to use a wider gate 'biner? Is it something about the chain? And I'm thinking that what you chain is, like, a series of slip knots in the part of the rope that is heading up to the leader, not the lower end... I tried it last night (ok, i tied it around the handle of my coffee cup) and that was the only thing that seemed to make sense.
Cheers, etc.
Anna
|
|
|
|
|
copperhead
Feb 28, 2003, 5:57 PM
Post #34 of 37
(5889 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 26, 2002
Posts: 668
|
Pete,
When will your next video be available?
|
|
|
|
|
passthepitonspete
Feb 28, 2003, 10:12 PM
Post #35 of 37
(5889 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2001
Posts: 2183
|
Oh, right - good question, Bryan. I nearly forgot.
You can click here to order my first video.
You might have seen it before:
http://www.gx.starvedrockoutfitters.com/...0000001/aidvideo.jpg
I hate to tell you, but the video's really no hell, though if you managed to stick it out to the very end you will hear me sing a few bars of "I've got the Big Wall Blues". Chris Falkenstein rapped off the summit during my solo ascent of Native Son A4+. He filmed the video at the same time as he took this photo of me climbing on hooks.
I just faxed Chris my release form for the next video [you know, we *Big Wall Movie Stars* have to sign such things, since there are so many producers clambering for the footage .... yeah, right! :roll: ] so keep your eyes peeled! As to when it will be available, your guess is as good as mine.
Now, as for the knot, Anna is right:
The chain of knots is indeed a series of slipknots that go up towards the leader. I like the chain because as it begins to pop, you feel it, can release your backup knot, and get ready to tag.
You need a wide gate crab to make the untying easier. On the photo that buddy linked above, he used a thin cord. If you are using a fatty rope, as you should be on aid, then you want the greater clearance that a wide-gate crab provides.
I recommend that novices tape the gate shut, to avoid blowing it, both during release, and more importantly, during tying.
[Any]hottie who ties slipknots round her coffee cup, instead of doing work, is my kind of hottie. I love your way of thinking. {WEG} C'mere sweetie, would you mind holding up this crab for my tutorial....?]
|
|
|
|
|
mikeehartley
Mar 1, 2003, 12:26 AM
Post #36 of 37
(5889 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 25, 2003
Posts: 118
|
Sure is uncanny how much the “slippery overhand” looks like a Mule knot…
|
|
|
|
|
whipper
Mar 1, 2003, 1:39 AM
Post #37 of 37
(5889 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 21, 2002
Posts: 241
|
If all this is a little confusing, but you still want to solo tag then just get a 100' tag line, dynamic, static I dont care( I would like a 9 mill) and tie your tag rack onto it with your real haul line attached. climb up to 100 feet, haul you tag up, get what you need, finish the pitch. haul it up to the anchor then go conventional, easy huh. I have come up with tons of other uses for that 100' chunk of rope too, such as chopping up when you retreat(Due to the 50 years storm on a sandstone route)
|
|
|
|
|
|
