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twrock
Mar 4, 2003, 11:53 AM
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In reply to: Sounds like a modified hook thread is in order... Contrary to Pete's beliefs, there are routes that require specialized modified hooks; without them you will be screwed. Ok, I'll bite. What kind of modifications have you done that you found useful? Not that I'll ever be on a route of sufficient difficulty to require such wizardry, but I'd like to fantasize about it. :shock: (edit-grammar)
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valygrl
Mar 4, 2003, 4:04 PM
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Adam, Please post a link to that. I won't believe it unless I see it. Anna
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fishypete
Mar 4, 2003, 4:05 PM
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Thanks to adam for yet another off topic troll.... It has been months since you last had the urge to drop a not-so-subtle flame in the middle of an otherwise constructive thread - but it seems the plague has returned. I only have a simple request - if you need to satiate your desire to bring Pete down in flames, how about choosing an appropriate place, and leaving the rest of us to carry on a constructive and informative discussion without inane side-tracks and interruptions. Thanks for your help! Now back on topic.... I saw some pics of spectacular hooks copperhead made for pounding into small holes (in soft sandstone if I remember correctly) - they were impressive! Do you have the designs available for those??
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epic_ed
Mar 4, 2003, 7:13 PM
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I don't take that as "enhancing" a placement. If you tap a hook to help "seat" it and it doesn't enlarge the hole, then the original hole has not been enhanced. Then again, isn't hammering in a piton enhancing a hole? The process of pounding one in and removing it certainly makes the hole larger. Most aid climbers (me included) have no problem with that if no clean gear will work. The topic (both this one and the one you reference above) is actually about how to modify or enhance the HOOK (not the placement) for specialized use. And I'm still curious as to CHeads input on this one. Are they different from the one's Pete uses? And how do you make the modifications? Ed
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base104
Mar 4, 2003, 11:38 PM
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Adam, Have you ever even SEEN a bathook hole? Everybody on God's green earth taps the hook a little to seat it. PTPP isn't coming up with anything new there. It isn't an enhanced placement either, it's just a HOLE, that should have a rivet in it. Give one instance where Pete pulled out his drill and enhanced a hook. Not used one that somebody else already put in. 1/2 of El Cap routes probably have enhanced placements either from wanker followers or the FA. This was a raging argument in the 70's and the 80's. It has been decided that if you can't do it without enhancing, you put in a rivet. Pete did Jolly Roger, which I've heard has about the hardest hooking on the Captain. None of which has to do with your accusation. Really now. Tell me which route he drilled all over. The purpose of this thread is how you can modify stock hooks to get away with some rad hooking. I oughta know. I started it. It has nothing to do with enhancements. It has to do with enhancing the HOOKS THEMSELVES. M
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spike
Mar 5, 2003, 12:44 AM
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In Chongo's Book you can see a drawn picture of this enhanced hook. Its called a Finger Hook. A modified BD Sky Hook. http://www.rockclimbing.com/...mp.cgi?Detailed=8956 This modified hook works great in worn out bat hook holes on sand stone like P7 the "Amoeba Pitch" on Lunar Ecstasy - Zion Utah.
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copperhead
Mar 5, 2003, 3:07 AM
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I think I am being put 'on the spot.' To divulge or not to divulge; that is the question... Nice pic Spike!
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addiroids
Mar 5, 2003, 3:23 AM
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Divulge you mo'fo! TRADitionally yours, Cali Dirtbag
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twrock
Mar 5, 2003, 3:35 AM
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C'mon, enough with the tease already. "Show me the money!" ...,please. (Mom taught me to always ask nicely.) Very funny movie scene, by the way. What was that flick's name, "Jerry McGuire" or something like that? (edit) I picked up a Cassin Captain Hook recently that came "pre-modified," much like spike's pic.
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copperhead
Mar 5, 2003, 4:07 AM
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I don't have any pictures, nor a digital camera. I'll try to write something.
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twrock
Mar 5, 2003, 4:09 AM
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base104 wrote:In reply to: The purpose of this thread is how you can modify stock hooks to get away with some rad hooking. I oughta know. I started it. Actually, I started this thread because I was hoping I could get Bryan to spill the beans on some of his trickery. Since he hadn't told us in the "Ask Dr. Piton" thread, I hoped starting a new one might catch his attention and twist his arm just a little. :) (And since changing the title of the other thread implies that it is now for "Dr. Piton" to answer, I saw no harm in implying that I wanted Bryan to answer this one; hopefully he will give us at least a scrap from the table.) :wink:
In reply to: Everybody on God's green earth taps the hook a little to seat it. I suppose that if you do tap it in with a hammer then it can't count as a "clean aid" ascent. So I'm guessing that at least some people aren't doing that, right?
In reply to: It has been decided that if you can't do it without enhancing, you put in a rivet. I'm quite sure there are still people who practice enhancing hook placements. You and I might not like that, but they don't think "it has been decided." I suppose you might even call rocking the tip of the hook back and forth a few times to seat it a little better to be "enhancing" the placement. Tapping with a hammer or even putting it there at all is going to move some molecules. It's all a matter of degrees, definitions and local ethics.
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passthepitonspete
Mar 5, 2003, 4:19 PM
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It's all Big Wall Theory, Ron, til you actually get up there and start hooking for yourself.
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twrock
Mar 5, 2003, 4:27 PM
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Interesting assumptions, Pete. Of course there's no way I've hooked as much as the Dr., but I have hooked. But please do enlighten me as to what part is BWT. I'm eager to learn.
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