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texasclimber
Mar 4, 2003, 3:42 PM
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I'm headed to Red Rocks for Spring Break and I noticed lots of trad multi pitch, but no sport. Is this the case? I know about the single pitch stuff. My question is, are there any multi pitch sport routes at Red Rocks?
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jorgle
Mar 4, 2003, 3:56 PM
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Prince of Darkness....10C. 6 pitches i believe.
Oh, you need some nuts too.
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cjburchell
Mar 4, 2003, 4:04 PM
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Most of the sport in Red Rocks is one pitch but check out Prince of darkness 5.10c in Black Velvet Canyon it is a 6 pitch climb. Only the first pitch needs gear and some of the other pitches you might place a couple nuts between the long runouts.
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climbjs
Mar 4, 2003, 4:09 PM
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Registered: Mar 1, 2002
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Dream of Wild Turkeys....
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artm
Mar 4, 2003, 4:16 PM
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Dream of Wild Turkeys is NOT a sport route.
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ambler
Mar 4, 2003, 4:21 PM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2002
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Dream of Wild Turkeys has lots of bolts, but the rude surprises will start right away if you head up there with no gear! It's not a sport route.
Most parties use some gear even on Prince of Darkness, though if you can solo 5.6, and run it out on 5.9, you won't need it. The truth is that Red Rocks is *not* a particularly good place to find multipitch sport routes. That's why every time this question gets asked, it receives the same answer: "Prince of Darkness!" Nearly all the classic long climbs in the Red Rocks require some degree of trad skill.
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texasclimber
Mar 4, 2003, 4:54 PM
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That is the answer I was expecting, but not looking for :( . We will stick to the single pitch stuff.
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bandycoot
Mar 4, 2003, 5:31 PM
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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
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If you can, do prince of darkess. Borrow (or buy ~$40) a set of nuts and go with 17 quick draws. It is not a single move that makes it as difficult as it is for the first 5 pitches, but its sustained nature. There are so many bolts that I got bored of clipping them and skipped some! The crux is definitely 10c, but that is 6th pitch. If you can't do it then:
a. rappel from that belay/rappel station, since the crux is RIGHT above it
b. A0 that sucka and pull on the bolts! They are really close if I remember right. The crux is only about 10 ft.
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bigdan
Mar 9, 2003, 7:59 PM
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Registered: Jul 12, 2002
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if you're AT ALL comfortable on 5.10, you don't need nuts - it's a clip-up
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