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beyond_gravity
Mar 15, 2003, 6:24 PM
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Registered: Jan 2, 2002
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I lead my first aid route at gym today. It was 40 foot finger crack with soild placment the whole way up and took me about 20 mins.
This is extremely faster compared to the 45mins to took me to top rope it the first time I ever aid climbed.
However at that rate to lead a full 150 foot pitch outdoors it would take me and hour and 15 mins. Is this a normal speed for easy aid?
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beyond_gravity
Mar 15, 2003, 6:29 PM
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Oh yes, everytime I say somthing about placing gear indoors people doubt it, so here are links.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=27777
http://www.kin.ucalgary.ca/Campusrec/outdoors/wall.asp
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bigdan
Mar 15, 2003, 7:29 PM
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depends on the climber, and obviously the pitch. but a little over an hour for a long pitch, generally speaking, is pretty reasonable.
regardless, you should definitely go outside and do the real thing, fast or slow. only real rock will teach you lots of the little things about aid that will come up. so just go for it.
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mother_sheep
Mar 17, 2003, 3:45 PM
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I agree with bigdan. I lead my first pitch of aid this weekend. Prior to Saturday, I've only lead 2 trad routes so it took me forever (1 hour) to make it up a 40' crack. I'm not used to weighting gear like that so I was overly anal when it came down to making every placement bomber. Something about leading in the gym gives me a false sense of security that I wouldn't necessarily feel outside. Maybe its the soft floors?
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iamthewallress
Mar 17, 2003, 5:03 PM
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I'd say double that time if the aid pitches that you are considering happen to be surrounded in other big wall logistics. If you are trying to figure out how long you need to do a first long aid/wall route, I'd add up the time that you think you'll need to do the pitches then add at least a day, better two to it to make sure that going slower than expected won't stop the show. If you are faster than that, you'll have time left over at the end of the climb for relaxing.
(The number of times that I've bailed because I wasn't going as fast as I thought I'd go and was either going to run out of supplies or time off from work = 3.)
Also, C1 in the gym will almost certainly be as straightforward as it gets and, therefore, a dubious thing to use as a meter for your speed. Sometimes C1 can still be steep, traversing, roofy, reachy, etc. and take longer. It really depends on the pitch. The fastest C1 pitch that I've led was probably about 20 minutes, but I've also spend 3.5 on C2.
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