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rideandclimbkid
Jan 5, 2003, 4:57 AM
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Registered: Dec 4, 2002
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Boreal or 5.10? I have a pair of pyros that i absolutly love, but the rubber isnt as sticky as i would like....is the 5.10 rubber stickier?
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jono13
Jan 5, 2003, 5:05 AM
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Registered: Apr 10, 2001
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Boreals are JUNK! ive owned one pair, and they were the worst pair of shoes ive ever had! 5.10 are great shoes, but my anasazis are wearing out too quick
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farmerc
Jan 5, 2003, 6:08 AM
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Registered: May 3, 2002
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I totally disagree
I hate 5.10 shoes, they always seem to fall apart really quickly, even new ones seem like shoddy workmanship. Go with the Boreals, or maybe conside LaSportiva, they are really nice (i have a pair of focuses that i love) If you are really worried about your rubber being stick enough, i would buy some boreals or lasportivas and have them resoled with stealth c4 or whatever 5.10 uses.
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xanx
Jan 5, 2003, 6:08 AM
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Registered: Aug 6, 2002
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as far as i can tell, 5.10 will wear out much faster than any other shoe and will break more often. but 5.10 will just about alway replace them if they break/wear out too quickly, so it isn't a problem, actually a plus b/c u get new shoes. rubber is great, shoes are awsome, my dragons hurt like hell while breaking them in but then they felt like a sock almost, such a nice fit. performace wise, well, i think i am not the only one who will vouch for 5.10 performance
mike
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goingtohellquick
Jan 5, 2003, 6:13 AM
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Climbing shoes wear like tyers, the better the rubber the faster they wear. Meaning that 5.10s are the best!
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rideandclimbkid
Jan 5, 2003, 6:15 AM
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Registered: Dec 4, 2002
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Yeah i thoguth really hard about the 5.10 dragons...it was a huge tossup between them, the pyros and the boreal matrix's. has anyoneelse tried these three shoes? i was thinking of buying a rubber-softening compound, liek soemthing used on racecar tires, and trying this on a few small spots on my shoes just to see how the tackiness would be.liek the backand side of the heel, under the big toe(for TINY jibs) and little places...just seeing how far i could go...
The Kid
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freudian
Mar 16, 2003, 11:52 PM
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Registered: Sep 23, 2002
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RideAndClimbKid:
re: stuff to make your rubber stickier..
With the work I do, we have "Rubber Renu". Its a liquid you rub onto rubber rollers to help photocopiers grab the paper better without changing the rubber on the rollers. Works really well for those guys... maybe it will work on rock shoes.
Andrew
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climber_monkey
Mar 17, 2003, 12:09 AM
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Registered: Mar 13, 2003
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I got the 5.10c moccasyms. THEY ARE AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! And I cant seem to find a shoe that i like from boreal.
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waggas
Mar 17, 2003, 12:17 AM
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Registered: Dec 2, 2002
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From my experience, Boreal make excellent FIRST shoes... ie, they're cheap, and you're going to trash them anyway... after hat, I don't know a single climber down here in Oz who actually bought another pair.
For myself, I find it hard to go past LaSportiva.... the Mythos were great, and the new Katana (I think) looks better, though I'm not sure about the puffier heel.....
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mowz
Mar 17, 2003, 1:12 AM
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Registered: Nov 19, 2002
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GET MADROCKS!!!!!!!!
-Mowz
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merlin
Mar 17, 2003, 1:43 AM
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Registered: Jun 5, 2002
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is it just me, or has anyone else on this site tried saltic's? what do u think of them? i got a pair of sepia's, and they seem to suit me fairly well, although better edging would be nice, i just tried my friends scarpa paranoia's... and they were sweet, but oh soo ouch... they were about 3 sizes too small i think, they were eights, and im 11's. 42 and 45 or whatever
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bouldertoad
Mar 17, 2003, 1:43 AM
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Registered: May 26, 2002
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The only thing you should consider when buying shoes is the fit. That being said I find that the boreals fit my feet the best. I have owned sportivas, 5.10's and boreal and have not noticed any difference in the rubber after climbing in them all a few times. Now out of hte box 5.10 is stickier but after climbing in them a while they are all the same as has been found by a test conducted by Rock and Ice (i think it was them). If you are falling and blaming your rubber then you are looking ofr excuses. It is more your technique than the rubber. I know a guy who got a knee bar off of a smear in his birkenstocks that i could not get in my newtons. ANyways buy whatever fits and forget about the rubber and besides chances are if your pyros fit like a glove you will probably not fit in 5.10's to well anyways.
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jt512
Mar 17, 2003, 5:15 AM
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
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Five-Ten rubber (ie, "C4") is stickier than Boreal rubber. No question. If you like your Boreal shoes, but want stickier rubber, just get them resoled with C4.
-Jay
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dano
Mar 17, 2003, 5:27 AM
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Registered: Feb 7, 2003
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I've owned cobras, rock-sox, moccasyms, and now currently climb in resoled zens. i'd have to say that right out of the box the boreal rubber is definitely NOT as sticky as that from 5.10 - but the zens are the most comfortable i've ever had on that fit nice and snug. once you wear the rubber down on the boreals it gets better - but boy - once you put that c4 on there during the resole you get comfort AND stick.
i'm with the poster above - buy for fit, resole once they wear down.
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bandycoot
Mar 17, 2003, 6:42 AM
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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
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For the same price, buy three pairs of Mad Rocks. 5.10 if you're set on the two. Of the three major brands, 5.10 > Sportiva > Boreal
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overlord
Mar 17, 2003, 9:07 AM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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well, i like boreal more then lasportiva, bu agree taht 5.10 is THE BEST. go for 5.10 if you have the money to spend on them. theyre worth it.
CLIMB ON
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alpinerockfiend
Mar 17, 2003, 6:40 PM
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Registered: Feb 3, 2003
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Boreals seem to fit folks with longer middle toes like myself better, whereas the 5.10s fit people with larger big toes more comfortably. I've climbed in the ascents for a long time, and the pyros's as well. And like everyone has been saying, the 5.10s have the better rubber but the pyros fit me better.
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