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kyhangdog
Apr 21, 2003, 4:39 PM
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Registered: Oct 4, 2001
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I and some friends are developing a new area and I just ordered some stainless steel hangars. I get an email from the company saying they are out of the stainless and will send plated steel hangars with corresponding price reduction. My question: I know the plated steel aren't as strong as the stainless and won't last as long. Are the plated steel ok (22kn) or should I cancel the order and get stainless. Oh, and we're developing a huge area and price is a concern. The plated are $1.50 and the stainless are $2.50.
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aarong
Apr 21, 2003, 4:48 PM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2002
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If it is a big area and there is going to be lots of traffic - I'd say go with the stainless - that's the only way to go for outside routes. They may be more but they will last longer and the routes will be higher quality because of them. It is more expensive but worth it in the long run.
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petsfed
Apr 21, 2003, 5:05 PM
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
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Indeed. There is a real difference between paying half the cost because you're not paying for the logo and paying half the cost because you're paying for half the materials. Plating does not make anything corrosion proof. In fact, once the plating gets abraded at all such that the non-stainless interior is revealed, rust begins. Secondarily, plating is an electrical process. Anyone remember nickel plating a penny in high school chemistry? Same thing. If the current is off the standard for even a moment the process will be all jacked up. No matter what, plated hangers will not last as long, but I can't speculate as to how much less. Of course, that's strictly from a chemistry point of view. I have little experience with actual bolt lifetimes. Too few data points to do an empirical study.
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jds100
Apr 21, 2003, 5:58 PM
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Registered: Aug 5, 2001
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As a rule of thumb, yeah, stainless is definitely the preference. Price is the only "advantage" that plated steel products, hangers and bolts. Ideally, you would select stainless bolts, as well. If you have already selected stainless steel bolts, then plated steel hangers could be a problem in that there could be electolysis corrosion between the different metals. It's extremely rare, except in limestone, and I believe Greg Barnes of the American Safe Climbing Association has said to me that he has only seen it in limestone. If you're developing limestone, you might want to check around for opinions about using stainless hangers on plated bolts, too. I would really recommend going with Fixe brand stainless steel glue-in eye-bolts (not the P-bolts or U-bolts), with their glue capsules. They don't need hangers, and they're going last forever, and be stronger than the surrounding rock. Just like any other bolts, you should practice setting them, but they're no more complicated than the typical Rawl style 5-piece expansion bolts, now made by Powers (sold by various distributors and retailers). BOLTS: http://secure.serverlab.net/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=K00100&Product_Code=014&Category_Code=Glue_in_bolts GLUE: http://secure.serverlab.net/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=K00100&Product_Code=173&Category_Code=Glue_in_bolts If you want to stay with expansion bolts, you might check into Fixe Triplex, which are stainless steel and include the hanger. Pretty cheap from Pull Down Climbing (http://www.pulldownclimbing.com/catalog.mgi?page=bolts) or the stainless Fixe double-wedge, which has two wedges so makes more contact with the wall of the hole; hangers are extra. Hey, don't mean to lecture. Stainless is far superior, and I'd love to see plated steel NOT being sold at all.
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boltdude
Apr 21, 2003, 6:42 PM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2002
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Use the stainless steel hangers. The plated steel should only be used indoors. And definitely use stainless bolts. Yes, they are more expensive - but if it's worth bolting, it's worth doing it RIGHT. Better to put up fewer classic lines with good gear than a ton of lines with gear that will rust in 10-20 years. You should see some of the way rusted bolts that are LESS than 10 years old at Owens River Gorge (not exactly a "wet" climate). Please don't forget that portable power drills were invented about 15 years ago, and there is limited rock on this planet. Don't go drill happy, save some for your friends and kids and for future generations...
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boltdude
Apr 21, 2003, 6:59 PM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2002
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Just noticed that Fixe USA is selling their bomber stainless hangers straight off their website for $1.90. http://secure.serverlab.net/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=K00100&Product_Code=38&Category_Code=Bolt_Hangers
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