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matt18carnal
Apr 22, 2003, 3:20 AM
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So there I was wondering how many days a week every one climbs?
I would like to be leading 5.10 sport by the end of the summer along with 5.9 trad. I'm curious to hear from the experiance here at RC.com on what types of training I should do to reach these goals?
Climbon
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jono
Apr 22, 2003, 3:35 AM
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i try to climb once a week, but that turns into once every two weeks with school and all. for as long as ive been climbing (since 95)i guess i suck. i started climbing outdoors on my own and taught myself everything (not recomended) i borrowed gear from friends and learned knots in boy scouts. i only got to climb once a month or so this way. so until i got money for gear a few years ago this is how it went for me. i TR 5.10c or so, sport around 5.8-9. never tried trad because i cant teach myself that :( my advice is to get with someone who can teach you everything, including techinique, and the time you already are putting into it is good. i too would like to sport 5.10 this summer :o
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coldclimb
Apr 22, 2003, 3:36 AM
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You can do a search and find lots of topics on this. I don't climb nearly as much as I'd like to. Once a week, usually. Sometimes less, rarely more. I onsight 5.10. The best training is to climb a lot. You can add workouts for specific muscles to your climbing too, but the most important thing to do is climb.
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savedbymynuts
Apr 22, 2003, 4:10 AM
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I try to climb at lease 2 times a week. Most of the time I climb once indoors, it’s easy and convenient, and once on reel rock. During summer time I climb more since the reel rock isn’t covered with snow. I make weekends out of it. I leave on Fridays, camp and climb for two days.
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redpiton
Apr 22, 2003, 4:53 AM
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I climb 3 or 4 times a week, and the weekends are certain. I also work in a climbing gym, so I cheat 8)
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beercanclimber
Apr 22, 2003, 5:28 AM
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i was climbing 3 or 4 days a week when my elbows started to hurt then i strained a tendon in my finger badly. it's been a month now with no climbing...
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kansasclimber
Apr 22, 2003, 2:30 PM
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You gotta climb hard. You gotta go big or so home. You need to dig deep. And when you dont think you can go anymore. You gotta go harder than ever before. You have to climb as much as possible. You have to be either at work, school, or climbing. To achieve those goals you must CLIMBON!
SEE YA AT THE CLUB!!
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buckyllama
Apr 22, 2003, 2:32 PM
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what do you lead now? We can't answer the question of how to reach your destination if we don't know where your starting point is.
And for that matter what do you mean by leading 5.10sport 5.9 trad? Do you mean you want to lead a single climb at each grade by the end of summer, or that you want to be solid at that grade. (be warned: to be solid at climbs graded 5.9, you'd better be able to pull the occasional 5.11 move. Particurlarly at some of the more traditional areas on the east coast)
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ricardol
Apr 22, 2003, 2:57 PM
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your goals sound very much like my goals ..
my goals for this season is to lead 5.9 trad. ...
specifically i want to swing leads on Middle Cathedral - East buttress -- so that means that i have to be comfortable at 5.9 -- (with those many pitches - you've gotta have speed to get off the cliff while light still shines) ..
So it might help you to define what 5.9 you want to be at .. since there are lots of variations between diferent 5.9 routes .. it will help you focus during this season.
Here is what i'm doing to get there.. --
1) stay in shape during the week, (2x to the climbing gym during the weekdays)
2) get outdoors on lead as often as possible, (i'm averaging at least 2 trips to lead outdoors a month) ..
3) lead both, below your limit, and at your limit after warming up.. -- pick routes with good pro to lead at your limit.
lead routes at the same area of your target route -- since most areas differ in their rating scale -- (ie. a 5.8 at pinnacles is wildly different than a 5.8 in the valley).
.. leading at your trad limit is mostly a head game .. -- my trad limit currently is 5.8 .. while indoors i can lead 5.10b -- sometimes 5.10c ... for me the hardest thing about leading at my trad limit is concentratiing on the moves that need to be done when i am above my gear .. -- there are magical moments when the only thing on my mind is the rock and the move -- i still surprise myself when i feel my body doing some technichal moves to gain the next stance, and then realize i was well above my last piece of pro.. (of course my head is chanting "Just keep on goin .. keep on going ..the whole time!)
.. up to now i had been sewing up leads, to get comfortable -- since my goal is also speed, i'm forcing myself to lead higher between pieces ..
.. hope this helps ..
this last weekend i finally had a breakthrough -- i was at red rocks, warmed up on friday on cat in the hat -- then on sunday tackled Chrimson Chrysalis (5.8+ , 9 pitches) ... only managed to get to the top of pitch 6 .. but what an experience!! .. i led all 6 pitches .. the exposure was wild and the route is stellar!
but probably the most important thing is to not think about your goal too much -- i'm having a ball leading 5.6 to 5.8 .. and if i dont make 5.9 this season, so be it.
-- ricardo
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matt18carnal
Apr 22, 2003, 3:37 PM
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buckyllama-
I can lead 5.9 sport pretty good so I'm pretty confident there is a possiblity I can be leading 5.10s by the end of the summer. Trad on the other hand, I have just started leading trad so that is where my focus is going to have to be! I want to be solid!!! So the answer to your question is to be a solid 5.10 sport leader and a solid 5.9 trad leader.
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petsfed
Apr 22, 2003, 4:01 PM
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Lead 5.7 trad, sport mid 10's (I don't sport climb much so its kind of fuzzy) and climb at least once a week on granite, 3 days a week in the gym.
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overlord
Apr 22, 2003, 4:28 PM
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i try to climb or at least train 4 tdays a week.
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ktwo
Apr 22, 2003, 5:37 PM
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Climb... hard... alot. Thats all there is to it. Get out and climb as much as you can without hurting yourself, usually 3-5 days a week, steadily increasing as you get stronger.
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vram1974
Apr 22, 2003, 5:48 PM
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In reply to: Climb... hard... alot. Thats all there is to it. Get out and climb as much as you can without hurting yourself, usually 3-5 days a week, steadily increasing as you get stronger.
3-5 days a week? Someone is begging for injury... 3 days a week max with lots of stretching before and after... Unless you are talking about outside mostly. Crack climbing won't strain your tendons like face climbing indoors will.
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ronamick
Jul 5, 2003, 8:39 PM
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Registered: Nov 28, 2002
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Just climb, climb, climb.
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