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Yosemite SuperTopos
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timpanogos


May 3, 2003, 7:31 PM
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Yosemite SuperTopos
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Ok, I’m getting very exicited – 2 weeks in the Valley – leaving next Friday after work – One partnered climb on the Prow planned – but kicking around the idea of another solo attempt while there.

I have the book – Yosemite Big Walls – Supertopos by Chris McNamara. He has rated routes by over all difficulty as follows (starting with Grade V – ending on what I assume would be high end for me):

V 5.8 C1 Washington Column, South Face
V 5.7 C2F Leaning Tower, West Face
V5.8 C2 Skull Queen
V 5.6 C2F The Prow
V 5.6 C3F Wet Denim Daydream
V 5.8 A3 Ten Days After
VI 5.9 C1 Half Dome, Regular NW Face
VI 5.7 C2F Lurking Fear
VI 5.7 C3F Zodiac
VI 5.8 C2 Triple Direct
CI 5.8 C2 The Nose

My current method of looking for potentials within my range has been – ok – will I be able solo lead the mandatory free sections – 5.8 partnered lead – I’d go for – solo lead – 5.7’s would likely be a plenty scary enough for me here. I’ve been playing with some C2 level stuff – so have put the limit here.

My first attempt bail was based on lack of time, no portaledge, winter, too damn slow – so I assume that given ledge, food, water, time, strength, desire, wherewithal etc. are the elements that will aid with success for my next try.

Based on this, I assume something like Lurking Fear would be at the limit of my range.
a. Most people do in 3 days – I could take up to 7 days to finish it.
b. I have a hammer and some heads – not afraid to try them if I had to on C2F pitches.
c. It’s an El Cap-er

McNamara’s difficulty rating seems to throw some kinks in my method of finding potential solo success on a big wall.

Grade to Difficulty seems to outweigh A/C ratings to some point (A3, C3, C2F’s on V’s less difficult than Lurking fear for example).

Please give advice/experience – for example, why would McNamara rate Ten Days After easier than Lurking Fear?, which might be a better choice for me, as it states it’s a less traveled route (people below me might not be so frustrated )

Thanks

Chad


Partner tim


May 3, 2003, 7:51 PM
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Re: Yosemite SuperTopos [In reply to]
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you may want to corroborate your sources... eg. visit www.fishproducts.com for some alternate beta...

Real A3 is a crapload tougher than some of the "C2" routes listed. Could take a lot longer than it should, esp. on something like TDA. Everyone I know that's done W. Face of the Leaning Tower has said that 1) it's casual and 2) it was outrageous, but it might not be much fun to solo due to steepness. You could be waiting for quite a while to get on Zodiac or the Nose :-) do take that into account!

edit: ah yes, here is the topo I thought you would enjoy: West Face of the Leaning Tower on Russ' site.


brutusofwyde


May 3, 2003, 7:59 PM
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In reply to:
Ok, I’m getting very exicited – 2 weeks in the Valley – leaving next Friday after work –

V 5.8 C1 Washington Column, South Face
V 5.7 C2F Leaning Tower, West Face
V5.8 C2 Skull Queen
V 5.6 C2F The Prow
V 5.6 C3F Wet Denim Daydream
V 5.8 A3 Ten Days After

Hardly any free on Leaning Tower. Good solo aid choice.
The others (Wash Column) are good choices as well, but more exposed to storms. Then again, at least you wouldn't have to hump all your supplies up 2 approaches.

In reply to:
VI 5.9 C1 Half Dome, Regular NW Face

Lots of snow at the base right now, and we've been having cold storms roll through. I'd say not a good choice.

In reply to:
VI 5.7 C2F Lurking Fear

Quite exposed to weather on the upper pitches.

In reply to:
VI 5.7 C3F Zodiac

Another possible.

In reply to:
VI 5.8 C2 Triple Direct
CI 5.8 C2 The Nose

Long.

In reply to:
My first attempt bail was based on lack of time, no portaledge, winter, too damn slow – so I assume that given ledge, food, water, time, strength, desire, wherewithal etc. are the elements that will aid with success for my next try.

Based on this, I assume something like Lurking Fear would be at the limit of my range.

Probably, if you just have 2 weeks. With the weather we've been seeing, I would try something shorter than LF. Feels like winter here.

Brutus


iamthewallress


May 3, 2003, 8:09 PM
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Chad,

The hauling on many of the pitches of LF was really a two person job, even going relatively lightly (planning for 2 nights for 2 people, no portaledge). It's slabby and there are a lot of roofs and stuff to catch the bag on. You'd have to plan on rapping down to free the bag many times when hauling certain pitches. It is also very traversing in a couple of places. I think it's an awesome route, but you'll probably like it better if you are with a partner and moveing fast enough to go w/o a portaledge and keep hauling reasonable.

For mellow free, snag-free hauling, no need for a porta-ledge, and a descent that will be negotiable solo with all of your goodies, I'd check out the WFLT first. It's absolutely spectacular. When you see El Cap on top, I guaruntee you will still be quite moved to either go climb it before your vacation is over or plan another one real soon.

The hauling up to Dinner ledge can be a two person job too...lots of stuff to snag on, but at least if you are only hauling to the ledge, it's just 3 pitches. The 5.8 free is pretty mellow and a lot of it is french-freeable.

I bailed from the 6th pitch of the Prow in the rain. Supposedly the hauling is worse up top, but it's good up till that point. The only free to that point is a short stretch that is barely 5th class.


timpanogos


May 3, 2003, 8:18 PM
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yea, we get your weather about 2 days later - been wet and cold for two weeks now. I'm taking that for a good omen - storm baby storm - 3 weeks straight - got to have a break!

National Weather service shows that it's gonna too!

NATIONAL WEATHER SERVICE SAN JOAQUIN VALLEY - HANFORD CA
1130 AM PDT SAT MAY 3 2003
http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/...recast+WR+CA+096+043

But notice Friday!

...PARTLY CLOUDY NEAR YOSEMITE...OTHERWISE MOSTLY SUNNY... HIGHS AT 5000 FEET 61 TO 67...AT 8000 FEET 44 TO 54.

Maybe it will start turning around? Any long term forcasts out there?

Chad


lambone


May 3, 2003, 10:22 PM
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Chad,

I would highly suggest that you do NOT plan to spend 7 days on Lurking Fear! Only be cause you will be miserable with the hauling. Chris says most people do it in 3, because MOST people do, he is speaking of the average wall climber. If you don't think you could pull it off with three full days, plus a day of fixing, then I'd get some more practice on grade IV's and V's first. Not trying to discourage you...just being realistic. For soloing the Cap, pic something on the East side. better sheltered, and easier haulin. It may be have some harder sections, but it will be more fun overall. The Zodiac sunds like your best choice. Most of the C3 is fixed, and the free climbing isn't too hard. Just practice in the talus with heads before you start.

Ten Day's after is listed easier than most El Cap routes because it is shorter. The List of routes in the back ordered by difficulty takes several factors into account, rating, number of pitches, etc. I don't know how he averages all that together, my guess is he just uses his judgement based on his experience.

But, if you look closely, Ten Days After has 5 C3 pitches on it, some relying on fixed gear some not. So consider that in your selection.

Good luck! Have fun!


wonderbread


May 4, 2003, 1:19 AM
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Here are is the list that I would use if I were you. In order, and the Prow is not going the list because it sounds like you are doing it with a partner.

1. WFLT (short, easy hauling, very sheltered from the elements, really cool route)
2. WDD (much like above, just a step up in difficulty, probably about the same difficulty as Zodiac, just not quite as long or sustained)
3. Zodiac (really awesome route, steep, easy hauling, almost entirely aid, and it's EL CAP)
4. Skull Queen (short, not too difficult, pain hauling the first few pitches, unfun descent)


And those are the four I would consider.
This is why I wouldn't do the others-
SFWC- way easy, way crowded, nothing that memorable, especially after just doing the prow
TDA-it looks pretty hard, shorter than Zodiac, but I would guess a fair bit more technical
HD-It's an awesome free climb, it would not be fun at all to have to aid everything over 5.7. Long approach/descent, bad hauling.
LF-bad hauling up high, crowded, would be nice to free climb harder than 5.7, 7 days would be a long time on this one.
Nose-you really do want to free climb at the 10 level on this one, aiding everything would suck, be very slow and very long. Save it for when you have a partner.
TD-practically the Nose, and same reasons as above.

Just my 2cents, Have Fun!


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