|
iangraham
May 8, 2003, 7:27 AM
Post #1 of 4
(1554 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 13, 2003
Posts: 14
|
We are setting up an indoor top roped climbing route where I am at.
One guy has suggested that we use a hauling pulley instead two carabiners in the anchor.
Is this an 'approved' use of pulleys? Are pulleys desinged to be used as critical links in anchors that humans will be hanging off of?
Ian
|
|
|
|
|
apollodorus
May 8, 2003, 7:54 AM
Post #2 of 4
(1554 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157
|
Anytime you have one piece (other than the rope), you have the potential for bad Ju-Ju. Most climbing pulleys are quite strong, though. The other bad point is they usually only accept one carabiner. For a gym, with TR loads, a good pulley with a good locker is probably, allegedly, mostly fine.
If you want to be overly safe, get a rescue pulley rated to 5k+ kN, and a steel locker (about 35 kN).
|
|
|
|
|
climbingcowboy
May 8, 2003, 8:12 AM
Post #3 of 4
(1554 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2002
Posts: 1201
|
Strenght wise listen to Tom
As far as practcaitly, I was climbing with a group of people I met at the rocks one day they had a TR setup that way, but because there is no friction I got pulled up into the air belaying someone half my size that I never would have tied off on even if they were leading. Trust me it sucked, it was even hard to keep them going slow lowering down with an atc. Its really not worth it.
|
|
|
|
|
punk
May 8, 2003, 11:47 AM
Post #4 of 4
(1554 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 1442
|
We had a debate on this issue 6 months ago…do a search…the general consensus was that it is not a great idea since it will reduce the system integrity to absorb the impact of a fall and transfer the load more directly to the anchor and belayer including introducing one more link to go wrong in the system :wink:
|
|
|
|
|
|
