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aikimac
May 20, 2003, 8:55 PM
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Registered: May 20, 2003
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I'm trying to plan a trip to Seneca rocks, I'll be taking my two sons 12 & 14 they are comfortable on topropes up to 5.7 but probably aren't up to the exposure on the multipitch routes. I've done trad leads up to 5.7 also. Can anyone recommend routes that I could lead in order to setup topropes for them?
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roninthorne
May 20, 2003, 9:21 PM
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Registered: Nov 27, 2002
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Get the Barnes guide, which was written by a former Seneca guide, and check out North Peak, East Face around Pooh's Corner and Streptococcus; or the South Peak, West Face, around Humphrey's Head and Cockscomb. Both have some good easy to moderate climbs, single pitch, very tope-rope-able.
(And before anyone even starts on why the EH-FP guide is so much better... sorry, but no matter how much more detailed that version is, why pay Falcon Press and Mr. Horst to plagerize other people's work? Especially when their beta is so inaccurate....)
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pico23
May 22, 2003, 5:24 AM
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I've got some TR's I did written in my guide. I'll PM or post a follow up with them. Stretococus sounds like it might be one. Most were in the 5.7-9 range. And on North Peak near the Summit
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davidcollins
May 22, 2003, 4:04 PM
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In reply to: I'm trying to plan a trip to Seneca rocks, I'll be taking my two sons 12 & 14 they are comfortable on topropes up to 5.7 but probably aren't up to the exposure on the multipitch routes. I've done trad leads up to 5.7 also. Can anyone recommend routes that I could lead in order to setup topropes for them?
Like others have said, the best area for TRs is the east face of the north peak. Many of the easier routes there tend to be a bit messy, particularly on lead. The contrived routes on the Streptococcus face are worth doing. You may be interested in leading Heffalump Trap (5.3). It's a bit better than most of the others at it's grade in that area and, since it angles up, is longer and gives an inkling of the exposure for which Seneca is famous.
The first pitch of Totem at the South End is only 5.4, has bolt anchors and can be toproped if someone first leads it. It's about 75 or 80 ft and, in my opinion, more enjoyable than routes of a similar grade at the east face of the north peak. Your sons willl get some exposure in a safe setting, if you can keep them from straying into the "drop zone" beneath Skyline Traverse.
There's also Nelson Rocks if you exhaust your options at Seneca. There are several bolted routes with convenient anchors in the 5.7 or 5.8 range. Make sure you wear a helmet.
David Collins
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ezjay40
May 22, 2003, 4:38 PM
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Registered: Nov 18, 2002
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Try the lower slaps, Nice area...go up the trail to the lookout deck , then make a right on a switchback with a big boulder on it ...small trail
Have Fun
When my kids turned 100lbs, thats when I let them belay me ...
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1269topper
May 22, 2003, 6:01 PM
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Registered: Mar 6, 2003
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There are two killer spots for you to set up top ropes on if there is no one on there unfortunatly they get crowed but if you get there early or weekday its bomber. They are also the short hike into these spots.
The first which I also most highly recommend is were ecstasy jounior is located around the corner of the south end of seneca. You can lead Ecstasy jounior which is a 5.4 to the tree which is approxametly 90' up and top rope the burn a 5.7 (killer route ) and I believe its sunshine 5.10a also you still have ecstasy jounior to top rope on too. If you are not comforatbale leading and having you sons belay you you can easly rap down on to set up a anchor. If you have and questions PM me.
The second is candy corner to anchors and set up over ye gods little fishs 5.8 and there is a 5.11 three that you can TR.
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