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adding some tricams to my rack
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animal


Jun 2, 2003, 12:20 AM
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adding some tricams to my rack
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well its finally happened....a pay check thats clear to me YAY!!

so of course i'm taking some of it and getting some more equipment...

i'm looking at getting about 6 tri camps and just curious if these are the more popular sizes and if the amount i'll be getting is a little low or high...
i don't mind buying 3 or 4 of a size if i know its widely used...
so heres the list

Camp tricams

#0.5 x2
#1.0 x2
#1.5 x2

i will also be getting another hand full of biners so if its sugested i get these and triple up on what ever size that can be done...

thanks for the input


greenpartyclimber


Jun 2, 2003, 1:22 AM
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Re: adding some tricams to my rack [In reply to]
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the pink and red tri cams are the only one's I use frequently


iceclimber


Jun 2, 2003, 1:25 AM
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I doubled up on the .5 (pink) while remaining singles of the 1 and 2, haven't really had any need to double up on other sizes.


krillen


Jun 2, 2003, 2:27 AM
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Try one of the first three, then if you like 'em double up on them, then see how often you could use the others before you buy them.


pico23


Jun 2, 2003, 5:41 AM
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if you like tricams you will use them. If not on the climb then at the belay.

That said. I like doubles of the Red and Brown (1.0 and 1.5) although I don't always carry two browns. I have doubles of the pink as well but I don't tend to use it as much (and I climb in the Gunks where the pink is supposedly a necessary piece). I'd say at most get doubles of 1.0, 1.5 and 2.0 (and maybe .5) bigger than that you start to lose any benefit of doubleing up unless something is different where you climb. The big ones 2.0-4 are good at belays and can often be used to save a mid sized cam for the next pitch.

I'm gonna jump ahead here before the tricam haters get to this thread. you will get some people that say tricams are antiquated and the diehards that love em. I still feel I can only protect a horizontal pocket or horizontal flaring crack with a tricam. I don't have hybrids so I can't comment on there benefit but I don't see how they'd protect most of the horizontal flares I am talking about. I've set belays on crowded ledges (where the best anchor options were taken) with only tricams in outward horizontal flares. SLCD's just didn't seem stable/safe in those cracks.

Also, learn to place them passive behind contrictions the way you'd place a nut. With a good tug no amount of rope drag will unset them (and it will take your second some time as well) and that is the only piece that I feel is totally bomber almost every time. If you aren't sure what I mean about passive behind a constriction look in JL's climbing anchors and often you will find even better placements then the one in the book. They also work great passively in vertical irregular/hourglass cracks where cams tend to walk in our out of the constriction. IMO people under utilize the tricam in passive mode and don't get the full benefit of it's utility.


danielb


Jun 2, 2003, 8:35 AM
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Re: adding some tricams to my rack [In reply to]
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I personally have and always carry:

2 x 0.5
1 x 1.0

Don't know about the other sizes or their usefullness but I always end up using at least 1 pink tricam on each route I do. They are very useful I guess which tricams will be most usefull for you depends on the area you are climbing in....


tradmanclimbs


Jun 2, 2003, 1:37 PM
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SAVE your money and buy cams!!!!!!!! the pink and red tricams are good but anything bigger and aliens will work better. faster and less hassel =less pump= less falls.


dirtineye


Jun 2, 2003, 1:49 PM
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In the south double pink, double red, single brown is a standard notion.

Tricam do things that cams can't do. THey fit in strange places where nothign else will. Often a Tricam will work where a cam will not.

Picoe23 did a good job explaining the greatness of tricams.

Personally I have a full set and I use em all the time, both passively as nuts and in the camming mode.


animal


Jun 2, 2003, 10:59 PM
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thanks guys i think i know which direction i should go...i think i'm going to get the .5, 1, and 2 ...just singles and use them a couple of weekends and decide from there....as for the guy that says save money buy cams...i already have a full set of camalots but like the others mentioned cams arn't always the best answer...i'd trust a bomber nut or hex over a cam anyday...i just feel safer on passive then active expecially on anchors...

thanks again for the advice...it helped a lot


alikb


Jun 2, 2003, 11:16 PM
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I agree 100% on everything pico23 mentioned. I find Tricams to be far more secure than any cam because tricams "lock in" and never walk as cams often do, and yet, when well placed they are very easy to remove. As was mentioned before tricams also work very well in flares and pin scares. It is true that they require a bit more tinkering to place than a cam does but a tricam placement is far more likely to hold a fall than a hastily placed cam.

As for how many to carry I wouldn't double up on anything bigger than a red or maybe brown. As well IMO the bigger tricams (#3 or so and up) are a bit too heavy to be worth carrying.

alik


dirtineye


Jun 3, 2003, 11:43 PM
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In reply to:
As well IMO the bigger tricams (#3 or so and up) are a bit too heavy to be worth carrying.

alik

Die heretic! :P


kevlar


Jun 7, 2003, 2:56 PM
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pico23.....has it all figured out....enjoy an be safe

cheers :D


reno


Jun 7, 2003, 3:56 PM
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I've got doubles of the first six sizes (0.5 thru 3.0) and singles of 3.5 and 4.0.

I'm no expert on climbing, but in my opinion, they are some of the best gear when you look at versatility vs. cost. I can get six TriCams for the cost of two SLCDs.

They've held well for me when I lived in Georgia and was climbing southern sandstone. I've not tested them in hard granite yet.

They do take some time to learn to place quickly and one-handed, though. That may be a concern to address.


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