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jobial
Jun 3, 2003, 6:41 PM
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Registered: Jun 3, 2003
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Heading out to the Tetons for the second week in June for a few days of trad climbing. Never been. Will have my truck. Any advice? I heard the climber's ranch is the place to be. Only $8 a night! Personally, I'd like to camp...but $8 for a roof over your head and good company. Well, it sounds good.
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pt
Jun 5, 2003, 2:30 AM
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Registered: May 29, 2003
Posts: 400
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Stay at the climbers ranch for at least part of your stay. Cool place to be with other people who are like minded. Good library to hang out in if the weather is bad, nice covered cooking area, and nice views of the mountains. Good climbing to be had as well. If you don't try the Grand the crowds shouldn't be too bad in the other areas of the park, although you still may have to wait in line on the classic routes. I recommend Guides wall, Baxters' pinnacle, The Snaz, Caveat Emptor, Irenes....
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extrememountaineer
Jun 5, 2003, 4:17 AM
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Registered: Apr 28, 2003
Posts: 377
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In reply to: Heading out to the Tetons for the second week in June for a few days of trad climbing. Never been. Will have my truck. Any advice? I heard the climber's ranch is the place to be. Only $8 a night! Personally, I'd like to camp...but $8 for a roof over your head and good company. Well, it sounds good.
Thank the AAC for the ranch. Never stayed although I am a member, supposed to be decent digs.
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mountaindoc
Jun 5, 2003, 11:20 PM
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Registered: Jan 17, 2003
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Yo- We are headed up there the 3rd week of June. I just spoke with the Jenny Lake Rangers yesterday. There is still LOTS of snow. You may want to stick to the lower routes like the Snaz, Caveat Emptor, Guides Wall, Baxter's Pinnacle, Irene's Arete, Open Book, etc. And if you want to camp you can camp across the highway at Shadow mountain for free. National forest campground. Great views of the Tetons.
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tradmanclimbs
Jun 5, 2003, 11:30 PM
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Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599
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Shadow mtn is way cool. hot sptings just south of there to get clean in. I can't rember the name? Jenny lake will still be colder than a pissed off girlfriend in early june :twisted: It can still be pretty burly up there in early june.
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brianinslc
Jun 5, 2003, 11:48 PM
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Registered: Sep 13, 2002
Posts: 1500
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Climbing ranch can't be beat.
Early season trad, besides some of the routes mentioned...
Symmetry Spire has a couple of nice routes that are fun in early season, especially as the descent is snow, and can be quick and easy (also firm and scary, so an ice axe might be prudent). SW Ridge and Durrance (bit longer route) are fun.
No Perches Necessary is fun and nice for a short day. Easier than it looks.
East Ridge of Disappointment Peak can be a nice climb early season (glissade down the spoon coulier can be a hoot, but, is kinda steep...so...caution is prudent). Ditto the East Ridge of Cloudveil Peak. Corkscrew and the Red Sentinel too, but, an axe might be useful for the descent as well.
Buck's East Ridge (hey, there's a theme here!) is fun too, and with snow, the descent down the east face can be nice boot scootin' (again, knowledge of self arrest a big plus). Also a good time of year for some of the snow routes like the Skillet on Moran, East Face of Teewinot, Middle Teton Glacier, Stettner to Ford Coulior on the Grand (if it hasn't melted out in the middle yet), etc etc.
Fun stuff...
Brian in SLC
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alpinerockfiend
Jun 6, 2003, 8:30 PM
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Registered: Feb 3, 2003
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I'd like to second all the routes everyone recommended. I would say that you could crash at my pad, but my whole family lives there! Although I think they are leaving for a while on the second weekend of June. Just want to say all of the south-facing stuff in Death is in excellent shape. Same with Cascade Canyon's south facers. Possibly Garnet's as well, but I haven't been up there yet this year. Have fun, send me a PM if you'd be interested, I can give you some more info on when my house is available.
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