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troutboy
Jun 10, 2003, 7:08 PM
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Pinnacles National Monument California (what crappy rock !) New Jack City, California (no offense Aaron :) )Questionable rock, lots of glass, gunshots, ATVs. TS
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mtnjohn
Jun 10, 2003, 7:30 PM
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I agree 1000% that New Jack sucks! The Pinnacles, however, are grteat If you're climbing rotten rock then you're way off route
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troutboy
Jun 10, 2003, 7:43 PM
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In reply to: I agree 1000% that New Jack sucks! The Pinnacles, however, are grteat If you're climbing rotten rock then you're way off route Actually I think after 25 years I can follow a dihedral, a line of bolts, and chalk :D In retrospect, it was...interesting and the setting was nice. One man's choss pile is another man's Valhalla.... TS
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mtnjohn
Jun 10, 2003, 8:02 PM
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That wasn't a personal attack I've popped a few hols at the Pinns but most of it has been solid I've been climbing there over 10 years and I've found that the majority of the routes are solid.
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markc
Jun 10, 2003, 8:14 PM
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In reply to: I'm sure this will be unpopular, but the only place I will never go again that I've been to in the last 5 years is New River Gorge WV. Everyone's entitled to their opinions, but would you care to elaborate? Like someone else said, I can't imagine spending too much time in Bubba City. We went there in search of easy trad opportunities, but the lines we had in mind were unaesthetic and dirty. But you'd avoid the whole gorge for good? There may be other places I'd rather be, but there's some good climbing (among other things) at the New. mark
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maculated
Jun 10, 2003, 8:22 PM
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Pinnacles climbing doesn't suck, it just sucks your confidence. Gotta climb there a lot to appreciate it, i think.
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tripperjm
Jun 10, 2003, 9:07 PM
Post #32 of 85
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In reply to: I agree 1000% that New Jack sucks! I can't belive somebody blighted that foul stone with so many bolts! What a sh-t hole! HAHAHA!!!1
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reno
Jun 10, 2003, 9:46 PM
Post #33 of 85
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Registered: Oct 30, 2001
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Sandrock, Alabama... Graffitti spray painted on the rocks (I *REALLY* do not care that "Joe" and "Susan" will be "Together 4-Ever")... Trash everywhere.... Laying a bouldering pad on top of broken bottles and crumpled cigarette packs is not my idea of getting close to the natural world. People playing their "boomboxes" loudly... Loud exhausts on jacked-up 4X4 trucks... Tobacco juice spit everywhere... Retro-bolted trad lines... No, thanks.
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kman
Jun 10, 2003, 9:53 PM
Post #34 of 85
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Registered: Oct 16, 2001
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Babbington Bluffs on Vancouver Island.
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jcinco
Jun 10, 2003, 10:10 PM
Post #35 of 85
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Rodeo Wall just south of Jackson, WY. Its dubbed as a fun change from dealing with the Tetons on a daily basis. Don't listen... the place is shiite.
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ropeburn
Jun 10, 2003, 10:14 PM
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In reply to: Boucher rocks in Va. Its only about 5 minutes downstream from Great falls. The guide books claim the trail to it is maintained by PATC, well I hope I never hike on another trail of theirs because it hadnt been cleaned in about 20 years. I now have poison ivy all over my legs and so does the girlfriend. To top it off the 4 climbs that are in this small area had lichen all over them. I have to second jerrygarcia on this one. But he forgot to mention the foot of mud that constitutes the trail bed. But was right on with poison ivy framing every trail and climb. yuck. :evil:
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moabbeth
Jun 10, 2003, 11:15 PM
Post #37 of 85
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 1786
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Margaritaville outside Victorville, CA. Worst rock I've climbed in Socal. Which is odd cause up the road is Cemetery which was actually halfway decent. Margaritaville...chossy rock, the bolt placements seem to have been put up by a blind monkey and the routes aren't very interesting.
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bandycoot
Jun 11, 2003, 12:38 AM
Post #38 of 85
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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 2028
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One of the climbing magazines included a guide for new bouldering areas in Culp Valley near San Diego. We went out there to try some of the problems. They SUCKED! No real quality routes, and the rock was CHOSS. We must have been some of the few that tried going out there because 20' up a BAD landing highball I blew a hold off. Luckily I didn't fall since the route wasn't horribly hard (V1) but scared the crap out of me. Other holds blew off that day as well, and there weren't many problems out there to do anyways. We eventually tried some problems not in the guide and left after getting one of them. It was pretty cool. Seemed like the only good problem out there wasn't even in the guide! Never going back to that crap again. Say at the main bouldering area out there!
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bighigaz
Jun 11, 2003, 1:15 AM
Post #39 of 85
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Registered: Sep 30, 2002
Posts: 696
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Minihaha.
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pbjosh
Jun 11, 2003, 1:20 AM
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Registered: Mar 22, 2002
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bandycoot - There's plenty of worthwhile stuff @ Culp Valley but it's all over the place, not well documented, and hasn't seen enough ascents to clean up very well yet. It's an adventuruous place, in other words, but there is plenty of fun to be had there if you take the right attitude. Even mo' betta is to go there with someone who knows the place better, which is what I try to do. josh
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climber1
Jun 11, 2003, 2:11 AM
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Posts: 484
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well even though it's where I learned to top rope and boulder, I would say that Stoney Pt in socal is a place I probably won't frequent anymore. too much trash, graffiti, gang bangers, homeless people, and tourons. add to that Rubidoux in Riverside.
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mreardon
Jun 11, 2003, 5:19 PM
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Years ago I vowed to never go back to Stoney Point because of the garbage, grafittii, chipping, blah blah blah. Now I'm back every couple days working new problems. Never say never. Who knows, I may even make it back to Mt. Potosi someday (ugh!)....
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bolder
Jun 11, 2003, 5:43 PM
Post #43 of 85
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Registered: Jun 28, 2002
Posts: 203
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Lake Dierkes - Idaho Lighthouse - Boulder Canyon Smith Rock - I know I will catch crap for this one, but I didn't like climbing there. Pete's wicked crap cave - Clear Creek Owen's River Gorge - Bishop North Table Pile - Golden, CO
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enigma
Jun 11, 2003, 6:33 PM
Post #44 of 85
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Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 2279
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In reply to: Years ago I vowed to never go back to Stoney Point because of the garbage, grafittii, chipping, blah blah blah. Now I'm back every couple days working new problems. Never say never. Who knows, I may even make it back to Mt. Potosi someday (ugh!).... I know what you mean about Stoney, its a mess,but once your there there's a certain positive energy around. 8)
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collegekid
Jun 11, 2003, 6:47 PM
Post #45 of 85
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Registered: Jul 7, 2002
Posts: 1852
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stoney is classic, i will be there the next chance i get. However, i wasn't too pleased when me and my friend had to dispose of (hopefully) dogsh!t that was conveniently placed right under one of the cruxy moves on Hot Tuna.
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winkwinklambonini
Jun 12, 2003, 1:35 AM
Post #46 of 85
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Registered: Sep 17, 2002
Posts: 1579
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the gunks on a weekend
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coclimber26
Jun 14, 2003, 2:45 AM
Post #47 of 85
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Registered: Sep 8, 2002
Posts: 928
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Most of the routes in Cheyenne Canyon, Co are choss. There are a handfull of good routes but there's nothing like grabbing a handful of gravel where your hold used to be.
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bouldertoad
Jun 14, 2003, 5:03 AM
Post #48 of 85
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Registered: May 26, 2002
Posts: 352
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I would have to agreewith Katydid on Franklin not being the most diverse climbing but to say it has a horrible approach is not the most accurate. Anyways the place I would never go back to is Ralph Stover State Park in PA. The rock is dirty and the routes are not that fun. I climbed there twice jsut to make sure the first tiem was as bad as I thought. Another place that comes in a close second is great falls......to many people and not enough good climbs...
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climbsomething
Jun 14, 2003, 5:23 AM
Post #49 of 85
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Registered: May 30, 2002
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In reply to: In reply to: I agree 1000% that New Jack sucks! I can't belive somebody blighted that foul stone with so many bolts! What a sh-t hole! HAHAHA!!!1 It's chipped and drilled to perfection. Thassrite, baby. Perfection is all I hear. :twisted:
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wildtrail
Jun 14, 2003, 11:47 AM
Post #50 of 85
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Registered: Jul 6, 2002
Posts: 11063
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Glacier Point Apron, Yosemite. Why? Because I was on it in 2001. Previously, there had been a huge rock fall that took out part of Camp Curry in 98 and 99. We did two little routes over there and as we were descending off of the last one, we heard another rockfall. As we walked back to the car, we could see where it came from, the scarring, and the new debris on the ground. We didn't stick around to investigate. It wasn't a high or large release, but it would easily have killed two climbers. As forewarned ( :roll: ), Glacier Point Apron is a bad, bad place.
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