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bigmatt
Jun 11, 2003, 6:06 AM
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Registered: Jul 29, 2002
Posts: 22
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I've been climbing for about a year now, and have been wearing the same pair of 5.10 Spires the entire time. I'm in the market for a new pair of shoes, but am still having a hard time figuring out what to buy. First, I'm having a problem with fit. Do I want to squeeze my foot into the smallest shoe possible, and if not, how scrunched up should my toes be? As for shoe type, I am doing mostly sport/face climbing at around 10a/b right now - any recommendations, and do I need multiple pairs? I know it's a lot of questions, but I appreciate any advice. Thanks.
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yotrepo
Jun 11, 2003, 7:59 AM
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Registered: Mar 7, 2003
Posts: 49
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If your doing sport climbs, mostly face climbing, I would get a nice sensitive shoe, these would complement the relatively stiff spires you have.... Then you'll have a trad/crack/long route climbing shoe and a sportier pair 8) . Consider a pair of mocs, especially if you boulder or go to the gym. I love my La Sportiva Cobras, as do about 99% of the climbers at my gym. They are super easy to get on and off, and you'll be able to put your feet on the smallest nubbins. But go with what fits the best.
Other moccasin choices:
Scarpa Minima (I think this has been replaced with a different name, though), 5.10 Moccasym, Boreal Ninja (a lot of people don't like these b/c the rubber sucks and the last isn't as aggressive as the other ones, but many climbing feats have been done in them. ex. Hans Florine speed-climbed -sped-climbed?!?- the Nose with Ninjas)
Most moccasins are unlined, which means you need to downsize. I am a U.S. size 10 and sized my old Scarpa Minimas at 8.5. It took A LOT of time, but they stretched perfectly. Then I lost them. Doh! :evil:
Hope that helps,
--Peter
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overlord
Jun 11, 2003, 8:16 AM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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go for ansazi laceup or ansazi mesa. the mesas are a great at edging because theyre really stiff, but not so good at smearing. the laceup is a great all-arounder. also consider buying anasazi velcros. whatever fits best.
all these shoes are line so they wont stretch much and youll be able to size them correctly because they wont be total torture when bought and too stretched to climb with a month later.
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kam_ill_eon
Jun 11, 2003, 2:31 PM
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Registered: Nov 14, 2001
Posts: 168
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I love my La Sportiva Katanas!! They haven't failed me yet. It sounds like we climb about the same type of rock and I haven't ever been disappointed by these shoes yet. I think they are made for a narrow arch so if you have skinny feet this is the way to go. Of course as with all shoes, try them on first before buying.
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mtbclimber
Jun 24, 2003, 5:07 AM
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Registered: Jun 7, 2003
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I just bought a pair of the five-ten T-rocks and love them. I had to size a full size up so they fit just right. The uppers are synthetic so they won't stretch much more. I have the ansazi velcro and they hurt like hell. They are great at smearing and edging but the pain is not worth it. I had them sized up by half a size and they never broke in. Give the T- rocks a try, I think they are the best all around shoe going. 6 mil of stealth rubber and they still smear great, can't beat it.
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