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fiend
Jun 25, 2001, 4:06 AM
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Trevor started this in the sport forum so I thought I'd throw it around the others. Who, in your opinion, are the greates trad climbers, both past and present?
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kagunkie
Jun 25, 2001, 4:46 AM
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The best Trad climbers hmmm thats an interesting question.Maby we could take a look at Climbing In North America to find a few candidates or no maby we could look in Czechoslovacia or Germany or Italy. Its a matter of opinion. I know one thing the greatest climbers iv ever met usually had the smallest egos.
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nctxcllimer
Jun 29, 2001, 5:25 AM
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In my small opinion, I like to stay with the Americans. My number 1 would be Lynn Hill with her unrepeated one day free assent of the worlds most famous rock climb, THE NOSE. I also have a lot of respect for Tommy Caldwell for his trad acheivements.
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wandt
Jul 10, 2001, 10:09 AM
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I think for the top trad climbers we have to look across the pond to Great Britain. With their bolting ethics (or more prevalent anti-bolting ethics) their trad game is the best there is. Leo Houlding has put up the world's technically hardest trad routes- some protected with skyhooks rather than cams or nuts!! The others' names slip my mind at the moment.
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ramylson
Jul 12, 2001, 5:23 AM
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Lynn Hill definitely take my vote for best trad climber in the States.. but, I have the biggest respect for all the grit stone climbers over in England. Talk about mental edge. I believe it was the last issue of Climbing that covered a bit of the grit ethics.. Otherwise, definitely get your hands on the flick, Hard Grit. I'm just in awe, no matter how many times I watch it. "ramylson"
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fiend
Jul 12, 2001, 5:35 AM
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Those grit guys are pretty hardcore but Tommy's got some achievements going for him to. I also agree that Lynn Hill is up there. Nose all free in a day, anyone remember that one? Ron Kauk is high in my books Magic Line, 5.14 Trad, and not grit free solo to piece 5 feet from top trad either. Peter Croft? Known fro soloing sure but he's a tradman at heart. What about the old schoolers? Harding and Bridwell, and Robbins.
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wandt
Jul 12, 2001, 8:29 AM
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Peter Croft is a local boy! From Whistler I believe. His stuff is all over the place here, including a 5.13+ trad line in Murrin!
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wandt
Jul 12, 2001, 8:36 AM
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And guys... the Nose has bolts. it's not pure trad. It involves a lot of trad, but there are still a lot of bolts. Is this still a trad route? Or is it a "bastard" route? Hey! Maybe someone from this site can be the first to free climb the nose all trad!
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woza
Jul 13, 2001, 8:56 AM
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I AM
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kolby
Jul 17, 2001, 7:59 AM
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Ray Jardine, the inventor of Friends climbing protection, the 5.13, and hangdogging. He is an outdoor visionary who has gone on to completly revolutionize long distance backpacking and paddeling. Quite possilby the greatest outdoorsman of all time. -Kolby Jardine
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compclimber
Jul 18, 2001, 3:52 PM
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I'm surprised no one mentioned Hidetaka Suzuki the guy did 13c trad in like 85 or 86
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learnintoclimb
Jul 23, 2001, 8:12 PM
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My list is pretty much the same as Fiends earlier post Lynn Hill, Tommy Caldwell, And Ron Kauk and you can't forget those guys back in the olden days [ This Message was edited by: learnintoclimb on 2001-07-23 13:14 ]
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climber1
Jul 25, 2001, 5:31 AM
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I would say Peter Croft. There are many others to choose from
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jds100
Aug 23, 2001, 3:11 AM
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I'd go with the Hubers, from what I've read about the trad routes they've put up: LONG multi-pitch, 13+; and many more than one such route! Hard Grit is the scariest climbing video I've seen, but when you add in the continuous and sustained nature of the Huber climbs..... By the way, what about Bernd Arnold in the former East Germany?
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benjo
Oct 12, 2001, 9:37 PM
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There are routes with bolts that are trad routes. The nose is a trad route. What about runout friction climbs that the only gear there is are bolts. Those are trad routes too. Just because there are bolts doesn't always mean that it's a sport climb. The difference has to do with commitment more than anything else. At least in my opinion.
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clipngo
Nov 16, 2001, 2:17 AM
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I agree with benjo. Just because there are some bolts, doesn't mean that it is not a trad route. There are some trad route that could not be climbed without bolts, especially when you get into the multipitch side of the house. Some guide books will go as go as far as not calling it a sport route if there is as little as one piece of gear needed for the climb.
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rrrADAM
Nov 17, 2001, 2:42 AM
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Lynn Hill this era, and Royal Robbins for the Old Schoolers.
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wallhammer
Nov 17, 2001, 3:48 AM
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ditto fiends list with bridwell at top as he is still climbing and setting very hard routes.
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crackwhore
Nov 19, 2001, 8:00 AM
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Beau Geste ? Moonlight Buttress? Trench Warfare? all groundbreaking routes ahead of thier time. no fanfare,no spray- just core. who am i? maybe not the greatest but...
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crackwhore
Nov 20, 2001, 11:42 PM
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you win an all expense paid trip to- THE HALL OF MIRRORS
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froggy
Nov 21, 2001, 12:31 AM
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Lynn Hill Rules! and she is a girl too!!! YEAH!!!!!!! Sorry boys, I think it is sooooo bad ass that a girl has the record for such an incredible achievement! She ROCKS!
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kadoj26
Nov 21, 2001, 3:11 AM
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Best Trad Climbers I think have to be Hidetaka Suzuki and Bob Scarpelli (Laramie Local).
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crackwhore
Nov 21, 2001, 3:12 AM
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Lynn Hill... ahhh yes peristroika in a long historic day... levitation 29... coatumundi whiteout... a brilliant and shining star.
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rocmonkey
Nov 23, 2001, 9:53 AM
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No one can deny that the two best trad climbers in the world (while they were still climbing) were: 1. Dan Osmond 2. Bart Simpson Not necessarily in that order... Dan tragically died doing what he did best - Ignoring Respect Bart was grounded by Homer for - chucking cherry bombs into the toilet breathe stone R C
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mnutz
Nov 24, 2001, 4:38 AM
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Any Dean Potter fans out there? Man, that guy is awesome!
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