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calpolyclimber
Jul 2, 2003, 2:17 AM
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I'm doing Fishhook Arete this weekend, and was just wondering if anyone has any info they think I should have. Things like where and when to sleep would be great. Thanks.
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alpnclmbr1
Jul 2, 2003, 2:31 AM
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Have you been to the base of Whitney before?
How are you at acclimatization.
If your real fit you can do it car to car in a day.
Most people sleep at the trailhead, and then at Iceberg lake.(some break it up even more)
Get Crofts guide.
It is a fun route for sure.
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calpolyclimber
Jul 2, 2003, 2:49 AM
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I have hiked Whitney. So I am very familiar with aclimatization. We plan to do it like this:
Day one, arive at Whitney Portal late, camp.
Day Two, hike to base of climb with camping, cooking and climbing gear. Camp.
Day 3, climb and decend back to our base camp at the base of the climb. Camp.
Day 4, hike back down and drive home.
Does this seem like a resonable approach? We are a party of 3 for this climb, so we want to devote a whole day to the climbing itself.
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calpolyclimber
Jul 2, 2003, 2:53 AM
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Yeah, the only book we have so far is California's Fourteeners. I've also been looking at the topo on Supertopo. From what I have read on this site, we should be good with lots of nuts, some hexes, and a dumbed down set of cams (smaller than #2 BD) does this sound about right?
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alpnclmbr1
Jul 2, 2003, 2:55 AM
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sounds good,
are you familiar with the climbers trail?
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calpolyclimber
Jul 2, 2003, 3:19 AM
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I'm not sure, I may be familiar with it, but not by that name. Can you fill me in?
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lix
Jul 2, 2003, 3:35 AM
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I don't remember much of the trail so can't help you there, but it's generally straightforward except for some scrambly crap low down and finding where the trails leave the other side of the lakes you pass.
I do remember that the Fishhook is an extremely aesthetic line with beautiful rock and full on south exposure and great belay ledges - on the upper four pitches of the route. The lower four pitches (the "hook" if you will) were still good, but cold when I was there (early Oct.) and it was a little weird figuring out where you breakoff the ridge into the gully and where you regain the ridge/arete (between the arete and the main south wall of Russell). I think we got off the arete a little late and got back on to early which resulted in some harder than 5.8 climbing and some funky downclimbing on the arete to gain the notch below the fifth pitch. I think the best bet is to aim for the slabby stuff in the gully early on and then aim for the notch below the fifth pitch. Still, you'll have to make this call when you get there, but you'll figure it out.
Also, if you're pressed for time, you should be able to climb the route and then descend all the way back to Portal the same day if you get an early enough start. The approach to Russell from Iceberg Lake is loose but obvious and should take about and hour and few.
Enjoy!
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calpolyclimber
Jul 2, 2003, 3:41 AM
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Thanks for the information, both of you. That answers all the questions I've got, but if anyone has any answers to questions I should have asked, let me know. Thanks again.
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alpnclmbr1
Jul 2, 2003, 3:50 AM
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both of my guidebooks are in mammoth right now, so this is from memory.
as far as cutting of the arete, I seem to recall the old guides saying you should and some of the new ones saying you shouldn't, we did something in between. the hard part was to the left of the arete for sure.
as far as the climbers shortcut.(I will add to it as I can)
Take the climbers trail from the upper parking lot. Past a large boulder. After a while you will hit the hikers trail, go right(downhill) to the stream and make a left, follow the trail that parallels stream and crosses a few times. After a while it becomes a jungle trail, a short while later the trail is a stream against the right side of the canyon and a rock wall, cut up and right onto the rocky cliffside till you get to a named ledge system. if it get really nasty you went to far. (remember this section for the way out, it is easy to miss in both directions)
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calpolyclimber
Jul 2, 2003, 4:15 PM
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I have heard that there are some amazing golden trout to be caught in the lakes up by Whitney and Russell (most notably upper and lower Boy Scout lake). Do you know anything about this? Like what's the best means of catching them (Fly? Spinner? Bait?) Thanks for any help.
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cloudbreak
Jul 2, 2003, 4:26 PM
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1/4 oz, gold Panther Martin's. I have a lot of fav flies and spinners, but this would be my absolute favorite.
*****Don't forget to go barbless......or if caught, you'll be fined.
Have a blast! Write a trip report when you back!!
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drkayak
Jul 2, 2003, 5:00 PM
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In reply to: sounds good, are you familiar with the climbers trail?
I was just up there last weekend on an attempt of Keller Needle. The "climbers trail" cuts off the Whitney trail at the first major stream crossing. It follows the right side of the North Fk. of Lone Pine Cr. The trail has gotten better over the years and is pretty easy to follow. Camp at Iceburg lake. Don't stop short to camp. Get and early start the next day for the approach to Russell.
Snow is pretty much gone.
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calpolyclimber
Jul 2, 2003, 9:16 PM
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Cloudbreak, is it all catch and release up there? Last time I was there I noticed some people at Lone Pine lake were keeping a few REALLY NICE looking golden's. Thanks.
Also, I have already mashed the barbs on everything I use to catch trout. I just hate it when you hook a little 6 inch fish and the barbs make a mess of things...
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calpolyclimber
Jul 3, 2003, 12:55 AM
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One more question: What is the deal with permits in this area? I remember it was a hassle to get a permit to hike Whitney, is it the same deal for Russell? It seems like a slightly less popular destination, so its hard to say... How did you who have climbed it go about this?
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calpolyclimber
Jul 3, 2003, 2:18 AM
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Can anyone help me out here? I figure I'll just go into the station in Lone Pine, but does anyone know any way to get ahold of permits over the phone?
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apolobamba
Jul 3, 2003, 2:35 AM
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YOu will probably need to get a permit from the ranger station as a walk-in as most of the Quota has probaly been filled. You can check http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/inyo/wild/wildpermits.html for the rules and for the availability http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/inyo/recreation/wild/wildpermits/othertrails.html
call 760.873.2400
Good Luck
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alpnclmbr1
Jul 3, 2003, 4:04 AM
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Contact the Mt. Whitney Ranger District, PO Box 8, Lone Pine, CA 93545, 760-876-6200, for additional information about this trailhead.
It's been a while, when I did the thing car to car via the climbers trail you didn't need a permit. Not sure anymore. Odds are your going to have to get the permit in person and hope they are not full.
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