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enitine
Jul 11, 2003, 5:38 PM
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Now I dont like injuries, correction, I dont think ANYBODY likes climbing injuries.. :? My main concern with this thread is with our finger tendons. What are some good ways to prevent this 6 mo+ injury from hauting the everyday climber? What are some good stretches? Are there certain ways to learn how to pull correctly? This is a serious thread, I was out for 8 mo's with 2 ankle injuries, I would like some educated input on how to prevent this from ever occuring.
Thanks, and Climb On!!..... 8) 8)
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enitine
Jul 11, 2003, 6:20 PM
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:cry: :cry: :cry: Someone has to have some sort of input on this topic...... :roll:
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sspssp
Jul 11, 2003, 6:23 PM
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Warm up on easy routes.
Learn to use an "open" grip instead of a "crimp" grip.
Realize that muscles get stronger faster than the connecting tendons in the fingers.
Don't climb more than 3 or 4 times a week.
Listen to your body. If it starts getting sore, back off.
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spiderwomann
Jul 11, 2003, 6:46 PM
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i'm sorry i can't really give you any good info, but i'm very interested too because i have tendonitis in my ankle that was suppossed to last for a week or two and has already dragged on for more than a month and a half, and it was from an easy indoor climbing session. I'm so frustrated because it starts to hurt even just after working all day!!!!
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paganmonkeyboy
Jul 11, 2003, 6:54 PM
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In reply to: i'm sorry i can't really give you any good info, but i'm very interested too because i have tendonitis in my ankle that was suppossed to last for a week or two and has already dragged on for more than a month and a half, and it was from an easy indoor climbing session. I'm so frustrated because it starts to hurt even just after working all day!!!!
maybe try to reduce the ankle pain with anti-inflamatories and ice 20 min on 20 min off if its inflammed. also a homeopathic cream with arnica might help. I have been using one called 'the rub' from NatraBio, available at wild oats. it has arnica, belledona, callendula, st john's wort...all sorts of good stuff for the injury and it seems to really help the pain and stiffness after i climb or when it is sore. Things like tiger balm are just topical and wont get too deep into the tissue - I have heard there is a good one called iceyfreeze or something like that from GNC but have never used it.
i had a foot injury for a year - it took acupuncture to finally clear it up. might also be worth looking in to.
-t
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grandwall
Jul 11, 2003, 6:58 PM
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i take a week off every 4-5 weeks. i think it helps.
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bandycoot
Jul 11, 2003, 7:57 PM
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I haven't gotten to that section yet, but I'm sure that the book "training for climbing" has a section on that. What I've learned from experience:
It's genetic. My tendons blow. It sucks, so I have to watch what I climb and what I hold and how.
Warming up is probably the most important factor in preventing this injury.
If you feel pain in your fingers, it is the connective tissue not muscles (they are in the forearm) This means you need to stop until the pain goes away or it will only get worse. It is not always tendonitis either, it can be a tear that is progressively getting worse that will eventually blow.
Josh
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curt
Jul 11, 2003, 8:03 PM
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Also, prophylactic taping of the fingers can help reduce stress on the finger tendons and on the pulleys through which they pass. The tape effectively supports a portion of the force on these areas.
Curt
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rockzen
Jul 20, 2003, 4:05 AM
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In reply to: Also, prophylactic taping of the fingers can help reduce stress on the finger tendons and on the pulleys through which they pass. The tape effectively supports a portion of the force on these areas. Curt
Tape is better used for either rehabilitating injuries or protecting against abraision of or sharp rocks. If used all the time, it is like a crutch, and tendons may actually weaken. Consider walking around on crutches for a couple weeks and see how fast your leg strength deteriorates. Same idea with taping your fingers. If fingers start getting soar, it is a sign that maybe they need to be rested.
Just my 2 cents...
RockZen
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enitine
Jul 20, 2003, 5:30 AM
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I don't tape my hands to prevent finger injuries. I got 3 flappers the other day from a 1 handed dyno, and have rested my fingers well. Thanks for all the replys, I am starting to rest more so I dont have to be out for 6 mo's or more with such a horrible injury. Is resting and taping the only ways to prevent this tho, what about using ice, I've heard that alot. Thanks guys.... 8)
Climb On!!!...... :D
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apollodorus
Jul 20, 2003, 5:40 AM
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Tendons don't develop and become stronger as fast as muscles. So, going on a training bender can easily injure them. Similarly, muscles can adapt to and overcome sudden overstressing better than tendons, so overdoing it on a climb can also injure them.
Another thing to watch out for are the sheaths that the tendons slide inside of, so they don't bow-string from joint to joint. These can become irritated, inflamed, more swollen, etc. I've never had this happen to my hands, but my Achilles tendon got this from riding a bike. The tendon would squeak when I flexed my foot up and down. I took it easy, and it healed itself. Ibuprofen, as an anti-inflammitory drug, can reduce the irritation when things get swollen and start rubbing against each other.
Tendons are slow to heal if you strain them, so don't push your luck.
Learn to walk before you run, so to speak, and you'll minimize the chance of injury.
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boulderqt
Feb 27, 2004, 3:18 PM
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streching well and warming up on easy routes before you do hard ones helps to prevent getting a injury.
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mandrake
Feb 27, 2004, 4:34 PM
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A lot of good advice here. Strategies that work for me:
1) Mild finger and hand stretches for a few minutes before climbing. Grab your fingers and pull them backwards until you get a good stretch, push them forward also.
2) When rehabbing (after a layoff), I buddy tape the finger to an adjoining finger if the finger pain is still kind of bad, just crosshatch tape the knuckle if it's milder. Agree with the above: don't do this if you're healthy. Also, ice for 15 minutes right after climbing and use ibuprophen twice a day for a couple weeks.
3) If in the gym I do like 6 or 8 easier climbs, up and downclimbing some of them, until I feel warm before getting on anything harder (I do this all the time).
4) If a bit injured and climbing outside, only second (don't lead) and come off quickly if something doesn't feel right.
5) Go crack climbing! I find that crack climbing uses the fingers in a completely different way and is good "active rest" for finger tendons.
Agree with the above about tendons being slow to strengthen: when I was going through a leap forward in climbing ability a couple years ago I had a lot of finger tendon problems. Now that I'm consolidating the gains, I haven't had much trouble in the fingers (knock wood). Good luck.
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hosh
Feb 27, 2004, 5:13 PM
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I use one of those little ball-looking things by Metolius. It actually works pretty well. But then again, I've always got some funk going on with my tendons. I try to stick to cracks outside when my tendons are jacked up, puts less stress on the fingers and more on the hands. Works for me, but I don't get out that much right now, it's freezing. I'm going today though, it's sunny in alaska!!! (rare) :D :D :D
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drrock
Feb 27, 2004, 5:39 PM
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I posted this elsewhere in another thread http://rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=52430 recently:
"In a relatively famous medical study, they took a bunch of cadaver fingers, and taped them to see if it prevented pulley injuries, the most common finger injury. There was no difference in the failure rate of the taped pulleys with weighting compared to the non-taped pulley failure rate. So they showed on dead people that preventative taping did not work. But some people still do it, and no evidence exists whether it works in live people or not."
It contradicts some of the other advice given above though, given to you by very experienced climbers. The bottom line is WARM UP, and don't climb what you are not good enough to climb. I injured myself, costing 3 months and $600 (co-pay) by being cocky and getting on a climb that I had no business on. Be careful. Peace.
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enitine
Feb 27, 2004, 5:50 PM
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Thanks for all the info...much appreciated.... :D
Ya I thinking taping of the fingers only serves as a mental aid for the person. They think that since they tape their fingers...they are injury free.... :shock:
Where do you buy one of those ball things by Metolius btw?
Anyone have a url? I'll just check their website...if I don't have luck....you'll hear from me again... 8)
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drrock
Feb 27, 2004, 5:59 PM
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I use one of these but probably more useful to strengthen forearms than tendons. Strengthen tendons on a hangboard or climbing...
http://www.mgear.com/pages/product/product.asp/level1_id/0/level2_id/0/level3_id/0/item/620006/level2_title/
I am also interested to see what Metolius thing people are talking about...
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fredrogers
Feb 27, 2004, 7:11 PM
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This is mostly a repeat of others' advice:
Seems like a lot of tendonitis is caused by people climbing too much (overuse) or climbing too little and trying something way too hard off the couch. Try going 3-4 days/week with rest days in between.
Warm up and climb open handed. I learned that about 9 years ago from some article about a French climber and I took it to heart. I open hand almost everything to the point that my closed crimp is fairly weak. But that doesn't seem to hinder my climbing and I seem to have a lot less finger injuries relative to my friends.
Don't bother taping. I haven't used tape for anything other than flappers for 10 years.
Listen to your body and learn when to slow down or even stop when things feel "creaky".
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hosh
Feb 28, 2004, 6:58 AM
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I got mine at REI. I think they still carry them...
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overlord
Feb 28, 2004, 7:40 AM
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1. WARM up. i mean really warm up. apart from preventing injuries, youll be stronger.
2. progress slowly. dont try to push your limits too much.
3. cool down. when finished with seriou climbing, climb a really easy route ant then slowly and gently stretch and slowly cool down.
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piedradura
Feb 28, 2004, 7:39 PM
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In reply to: i'm sorry i can't really give you any good info, but i'm very interested too because i have tendonitis in my ankle that was suppossed to last for a week or two and has already dragged on for more than a month and a half, and it was from an easy indoor climbing session. I'm so frustrated because it starts to hurt even just after working all day!!!!
the same is hapening to me with tendonitis around the elbow joint. It was suppossed to get better but it's been 2 months and nothing and srping is around the corner oh well. :cry: 8)
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overlord
Mar 3, 2004, 3:41 PM
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forgot one.
drink a lot. it seems to help with tendons and youre better anyway if youre not dehydrated.
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