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ninjachamp
Jul 12, 2003, 9:59 PM
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Registered: Jun 6, 2003
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so far, i've just gone with another guy and used his rope, but he's busy now and then, and I want to climb more often.
I have a harness, atc, biner, shoes...that's it.
I think I know the length I would need, but am unsure as to the other gear. I mean, I'm thinking
rope
quickdraws
biners
webbing
nuts.
are nuts most commenly used, or...
is it cheaper/better to buy online? if it is, is it better to by directly from the maker (black diamond, petzl) or from a third source?
anyway, I've been to 2 sites on the internet:
http://www.gearx.com/
http://www.northernmountain.com/
should I go more expensive, or will the cheaper items be adequate?
in other words, what do I need!?!?
thanks
ninjachamp
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ninjachamp
Jul 12, 2003, 10:08 PM
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does this sound like a good deal..
http://www.northernmountain.com/pgi-Product%20Spec?29117
i would add a rope and some more Qd's.
What really is the difference between a locking biner and a bent one, and so on?
thanks much
ninjachamp
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renobdarb
Jul 12, 2003, 10:32 PM
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it depends on what type of climbing you plan to do... if it's mostly sport climbing (clipping pre-placed bolts for protection rather than placing your own gear along the way), skip the nuts all together and go heavy on the quickdraws... also, get a couple locking biners and some webbing for setting up anchors and topropes...
if you're planning on trad climbing, get the nuts and hexes (and learn how to place them properly before you buy cams)... you'll still need all those quickdraws and probably some extra biners to organize all that gear... also get some longer runners...
to start out, sport climbing is definately cheaper to get into... try www.acmeclimbing.com and/or www.gearexpress.com ... both have good deals on quality gear... as far as brand names or going for expensive vs. inexpensive, in my opinion it doesn't matter as long as the gear passes the UIAA tests... yes, some brands are a little better than others, but what it really comes down to is personal preference...
for info on different types of biners go to this link and click on "Expert Advice"
good luck,
-brad
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imaclima
Jul 12, 2003, 10:39 PM
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Registered: Jul 4, 2003
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It would depend on the type of leading you wanted to do. By the sounds of things (you said nuts) you mean trad climbing, which is more expensive and involves more gear. your probably going to want more protection than just a set of nuts, maybe some hexes, tri-cams, and cams to go with them. Sewn runners (12" 24" and 48") are a necessity, if you are climbing multi-pitch webolettes are nice for setting belays. Lots of 'biners (locking and non). In other words, alot of money. Talk to your partner about his rack.
As far as brands go, I think of it this way-Is my life worth the few bucks I save by buying genaric?
If there is a local gear shop near where you live i would reccomend going there, if not-
Check out these sites:
http://www.gearexpress.com
http://www.shorelinemtn.com
http://www.mgear.com
They have some good deals on beginner's racks
My best advice though would be making sure you know what you are doing
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trad_mike
Jul 12, 2003, 11:17 PM
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Registered: Jun 25, 2003
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Lots of instruction. If you don't know what you need, you certainly don't know how to use it safely.
If you want to get into trad, hook up with an experienced leader and follow. Placing gear is both an art and a science that can only be learned by evaluating and making hundreds of placements. You also need to understand the forces involved, when to equalize pieces, when to extend a piece, when to add a directional piece to keep another piece from moving out with rope drag, ect.
Sport climbing eliminates the need for making gear placements. You still have to know how to clip so the rope doesn't open the biner during a fall. In other words don't backclip or place the spine of the biner away from the direction that you may fall. You also have to understand how to bail off and how to get down from the anchors on the top.
You can't learn how to lead from books or the internet.
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sharpie
Jul 13, 2003, 12:40 AM
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Registered: Nov 8, 2002
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In reply to: Lots of instruction. If you don't know what you need, you certainly don't know how to use it safely.
ninjachamp- Listen to Trad Mike, if you don't know the difference between a locking biner and a bent gate biner, no offense, but what you need to do is find a more experienced partner to climb with more frequently. If the guy you're climbing with now can't go all the time start going with other people when he's not available, this will also broaden your experience because every climber has a different style, and you be learning from a few different people. Go to you local gear store, you should be able to learn about events, clinics, day trips etc. in your area.
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ninjachamp
Jul 13, 2003, 1:20 AM
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Registered: Jun 6, 2003
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thanks sharpie, I hadn't thought about local clinics and such
where in CO are you?
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sharpie
Jul 13, 2003, 5:11 PM
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I live in Castle Rock, work in Littleton...
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ptone
Jul 13, 2003, 5:29 PM
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Registered: Mar 5, 2003
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Trad mike and sharpie said it well.
Look to your local gym also, usually they'll have a short course on sport lead, and offer longer ones for trad too.
I got into sport first, past shoes and a harness I got locking biners, some longer slings and a couple pieces of long (25' or so) webbing for anchors. That is enough for tr. Add a bunch of quick draws (depends on your area, but 10 is usually enough to start) and a rope. You have to climb with someone anyways, and I usually found I'd split equipment with whoever I went with (one brought a rope, the other draws, like that...)
Trad is a more complicated beast, but the equipment you buy for sport will all still be good. Definitely better to work with someone experienced as you learn, and they will let you know what you'll need. I started passive only, with hexes and nuts. Rather than getting a whack of new draws, I got some longer slings (30cm and 60cm) and replaced the dogbones on my draws so I'd have a bit more play at the pro.
Climb with people, as many as you can. See what they have, even brand-wise, and how they do things. IMO that's the best way to figure out what you'll need.
Peace,
-p
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