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calpolyclimber
Jul 14, 2003, 5:01 AM
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Can someone recomend a good High Sierra climb that is somewhat comparable to Fishhook Arete in challenge and fun? I had such a great time on that one I'm itching for another. I have Moyner's book, but I'm just looking for any personal experiences. Doesn't really have to be a fourteener, but I definitely want to have climbed all of California's fourteeners in the not so distant future, so I may as well get a jump on it. Thanks.
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micronut
Jul 14, 2003, 5:09 AM
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If you're climbing fairly quickly, try one of the aretes on Split Mtn. If you're climbing a bit slower or whatever, Bear Creek Spire, N. Arete can be done easily car to car in a day, although it's not a "14er", which is proabally a good thing.
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calpolyclimber
Jul 14, 2003, 5:25 AM
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Thanks for the suggestions. Just curious, why do you say that it is probably a good thing?
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micronut
Jul 14, 2003, 3:22 PM
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it's a good thing because it doesen't get swarmed by the hordes looking to "bag 14ers". Get over the numbers and get on the goods.
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calpolyclimber
Jul 15, 2003, 6:59 AM
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I see. Good thinking. Its not so much a numbers thing, its more a goal that I set for myself. Good point though.
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sprtclimber
Aug 1, 2003, 8:57 PM
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What are some of the more beginner alpine climbs in the high sierra, like 5.7 and below? Because I'm new to placing gear but I like mountaineering the sierra.
And by beginner I mainly mean safer as in clean rock, good beta, and not EXTREME Lethal exposer.
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calpolyclimber
Aug 1, 2003, 9:40 PM
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These climbs are full day events. They are generally more than 5 pitches, and even the lower graded ones are QUITE a commitment. I don't mean to discourage you too much, but you are going to need a little more experience than being "new to placing gear". Keep at it.
Mount Whitney has two climbs in the 5.6 -5.7 area, but do not underestimate them...
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alpnclmbr1
Aug 1, 2003, 10:41 PM
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For a good long day(car to car) I would recommend the west ridge of mt. conness.
I wasn't so happy with bear creek spire, it does have a nice camping spot though.
Another must do is the Third pillar of Dana.
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thrasher
Aug 2, 2003, 5:17 AM
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In reply to: Sorry, I lived in CA for 23 years and recently discovered CO. No comparison.
The Sierra Nevada beats the snot out of the Rockies in just about every category. You're right, there is NO comparison. The weather is better in CA. But that is fine if you like CO better, I wish MORE Cali's would move to CO. :D
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antimatter
Aug 2, 2003, 5:53 AM
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In reply to: I wasn't so happy with bear creek spire, it does have a nice camping spot though.
That one requires an early start and much simuling for the last half. Tie in short, say 100', for the last 5? pitches which are mostly 5.easy anyway. This way, you don't waste time building 5 extra belays or fighting 200' of rope drag.
Of course, we did it the wrong way and had the fun adventure of a nighttime descent. That aside, the climb & views are excellent. No crowds either.
Two other long Sierra climbs I really enjoyed were Venutian Blind 5.8 and Moon Goddess Arete 5.7 on Temple Crag 12,999'. Simuling is the key to finishing those in a reasonable amount of time.
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sprtclimber
Aug 2, 2003, 6:30 AM
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Thrasher has an excellent point. People need to get the hell out if they don't like it.
I respect your preference of mountains, but mine is to the Great Sierra which is much more mysterious than any other range.
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thegreytradster
Aug 4, 2003, 4:42 PM
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Check out the new edition of Porcella and Burns, Climbing California's 14ers. There's lots of stuff on the west side of the Palisades, (nice area, no crowds!), East face of Tyndall, (Access is limited), and I've heard of some new routes on Langley, (relatively easy approach).
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