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neeterock
Jul 16, 2003, 12:19 PM
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So I've been climbing for about 10 months. Now I know this is going to sound really dumb but I was wondering what would be the best training to put oneself through in order not to kill oneself during this type of climb.
I was going to ask this in the "beginner section" but I figured since I knew that my topic wasn't basic rock....."what does belay mean?" type of thing I figured it would be better in here.
I've ALWAYS dreamed of doing Alpine and I want to actually try to attempt that dream.
Shub's
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pehperboy
Jul 16, 2003, 2:16 PM
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At some point you will need to find some genuine alpine terrain - don't think there's much in Quebec. You want something at about 3,000 feet at minimum. You can get in good full day training hikes on 6,000 and 7,000 foot peaks. Get into the mountains every chance you get - weekends, holidays, call in sick, skip classes - whatever.
One way to approach it is find the steepest and longest trail you can find and start running it. Here in B.C. the Grouse Grind is a classic and very popular for this type of training. Run the trail as far as you can, and then walk. Repeat as necessary over time until you can run the whole thing - then start trying to improve you're time running it. You may want to weight up a pack at some point as well.
I also just do a lot of good old fashioned running (when not injured), six and 10 K or longer. Also, consider strength training (unless you are sport climbing regularly and think that's enough).
Check out for more training info.
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rockprodigy
Jul 16, 2003, 2:21 PM
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Running is good because it is quick...you can get a good workout in a short period of time, but in terms of alpine climbing, I think it really only trains your lungs. Your legs don't get the type of traingin they need. The way to train your legs is to hike steep terrain with a heavy pack. Use water for dead weight so that you can dump it at the top and not destroy your knees on the way down.
If you don't have access to mountains for training, plenty of VERY motivated people have trained on the stairmaster...if I had to do that, I think I'd quit alpine climbing!
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neeterock
Jul 16, 2003, 2:46 PM
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pehperboy: You made me laugh man!! Yes i'm all for "Get into the mountains every chance you get - weekends, holidays, call in sick, skip classes - whatever." The only prob. I don't know of any great peaks around here. But I was planning to go up to BC soon...I'll be checking out that possibility. Thanks
rockprodigy: I was afraid that running would be the answer...I'm already doing quite a bit of that..but the water is a good idea, and I'm a sport climber..about 3 times a week. Right now it's two hours each day...all the time I can spare at the gym, gonna try to break in more, one day doing bouldering (prac. footwork etc...) next stamina, and the last just trying to up level. But ya, I don't know about the stairmaster....you seem to know what your talking about ergo you've been doing this for awhile....I doubt I could cut it on a stairmaster right now. Thanks for the info!!!!
Shub's
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fear
Jul 16, 2003, 3:26 PM
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Running sucks. It's only a matter of time until your knees/ankles/hips(pick a joint) are sore and hammered. Stick with biking for cardio and endurance. Use a mountain bike since it's more versitile. Long Long Long road rides up really steep things is best. You can get to the point of being able to do 10 hour rides without destroying any key joints..... Try that with running for 10 years and see what kind of knees you'll have left.
-Fear
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scottcody
Jul 16, 2003, 3:36 PM
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I hear that sleeping with a bag over your head accurately recreates the feeling of sleeping at altitude.
Anyone want to confirm that?
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neeterock
Jul 16, 2003, 3:43 PM
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Running that bad eh'? Well well....I guess biking might be better then. I know a lot of climbers who bike a lot...prob why. Thanks man...I'll be trying that out. Cardio is what I've been trying to up...endurance and shit. My friend(climbing goddess) is training with me, so this will be good. She always want to bike.
Shub's
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elvislegs
Jul 16, 2003, 3:46 PM
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Backpack: Check
Several Phonebooks: Check
Steep Hill: Check
That ususally covers it for me.
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neeterock
Jul 16, 2003, 3:48 PM
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The basics I see....... :D
Shub's
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firn
Jul 16, 2003, 3:51 PM
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Well... I guess it depends on what kind of alpine climbing you will be doing.
If it involves glacier travel: crevasse recuse is probably a good thing to know.
If you are doing a snow and/or ice face: you might want to learn some avalanche skills. Also consider waking up early.
For alpine rock climbing, knowing how to short rope / simul climb will help. It also helps when you are used to climbing in your boots.
Unfortunately, the best way to train for alpine is alpine...
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dingus
Jul 16, 2003, 3:52 PM
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Some kind of running, biking, aerobics for the lungs.
Some kind of stairmaster for the legs. You can build leg endurance quite rapidly on these devices.
You can't really train for altitude in and of itself.
I have found that I can accomodate alpine climbing across a wide spectrum of personal fitness. You don't need to be a super human to tread on higher peaks. You need specific knowledge of how your body reacts to altitude and you get that by doing. Learning to pace yourself to your current physical state is really the most important thing to get under your belt. I don't hike less when I'm fat... I just hike slower.
Hiking trails. My last visit to Montreal I had to fly out Sunday and so had a Saturday to kill. Drove up to Mont Tremblant and hiked the trail up the back side as fast as I could go (it was in late Sept... and it was glorious! What a beautiful country and province!). That's when I began to preceive all the cool rock in the St. Laurents... really had no idea. Those are some OLD mountains! ANYWAY!
Do all the steep hiking you can find and work yourself when hiking them. You may find you like doing that in and of itself.... I did!
Cheers,
DMT
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neeterock
Jul 16, 2003, 4:03 PM
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"Unfortunately, the best way to train for alpine is alpine..." That's what I heard...sadly I know no one that does Alpine....sucks!!! But ya, I figured so much.
I was going to be going up to the Laurents the other weekend but work kept me from it, really pissed about it. But ya planning some good climb adventures soon....I'm heard about Tremblant had the Ice courses....want to try it...I think I need more training though. I don't really know what I want to do (glacier travel or ice/snow face)...I want to do it all. I'm still excited about it!!
Shub's
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mother_sheep
Jul 16, 2003, 4:03 PM
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Educate yourself in self rescue before you go out. There are a lot of unforseen things that can happen in an alpine environment. Not saying that something will go wrong. Just be prepared.
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neeterock
Jul 16, 2003, 5:17 PM
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Always...thanks.
Shubs'
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climbjs
Jul 16, 2003, 5:23 PM
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You may laugh, but cardiovascularly, I train on a stair-master or versa climber. They both mimic the aerobic workout you'll be getting. Add a pack for some additional weight.
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micronut
Jul 16, 2003, 5:34 PM
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learn to climb fast and efficiently. Learn to avoid setting up complicated, gear intensive anchors. Always be thinking speed. And drink tons of water on the approach.
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alpnclmbr1
Jul 16, 2003, 6:10 PM
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Get good at moving fast, so you don’t get killed by lightning.
Get good at route finding, so you don’t get killed by lightning.
Get use to hiking in the dark, so you don’t get killed by lightning.
In the mountains speed is safety, particularly if you have to deal with afternoon thunderstorms.
Get good at not causing rock fall, so you don’t kill your partner.
The less junk you carry the faster you will tend to move. Dump the packs, bring the rain gear. I like a camelback, drink a lot, regularly.
For some reason, I never found that being fit on a mountain bike translated into being fit for hiking.
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crag
Jul 16, 2003, 7:29 PM
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Ingenuity when you lack the proper surroundings to train for an alpine climb can get you by. It served me well for my recent Cascade trip.
Yeah I did a lot of running and biking also played tennis and did work with free weights but it was the cutting of my lawn 2 times a week with a 60lb pack while wearing my plastics that I think got me ready the most. A cheap push mower is all that I own and usually take about 90 mins - 2hrs. to do the job. Neighbors did look at me funny though. Also ran steps at the local high school stadium wearing a light pack.
Of course I did this while being ravenously hungry dehydrated, sleep deprived, cold and wet.
Cheers,
Crag
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elvislegs
Jul 16, 2003, 7:38 PM
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You might also pick up Twights book, Extreme Alpinism. he has lots of training ideas.
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euroford
Jul 16, 2003, 7:51 PM
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my favorite training regime:
pack full of "stuff" (phone books, aid rack, whatever)
mountain boots
the stairway at lakepoint tower - chicago. 69 floors, two steps at a time.
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alpiner
Jul 16, 2003, 7:54 PM
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Twight's is good but a better book for training is "Climbing: Training for Peak Performance."
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alpinerockfiend
Jul 16, 2003, 8:45 PM
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The way I read your question, it sounds like you are asking how to train technically more than physically. If so, the only way to do it is by spending time in the mountains.
Spend time on scramble routes to build your routefinding and fitness skills. Time spent out will also help you learn to read alpine weather.
Move on to easy, non-committal rock routes that have available bail options if you need to use them.
It's not really my place to outline paths, but I will say that starting on easier routes, learning the mountain fundamentals (even if you are a 5.xx climber already), is usually a much better way to go than just throwing yourself on something because it is within your technical rock climbing ability. Having a solid base will help you when you need to make non rock-related decisions in the mountains.
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czarcastic
Jul 16, 2003, 8:56 PM
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neeterock
Depending on where you live in Quebec, you might consider some trips down to the Adirondacks in New York state. There are plenty of peaks there that can get you into shape, and lots of rock climbing as well. It takes less than 3 hours to get there from Ottawa, so you can easily go there for even a day trip if you live in southern Quebec, montreal area.
Cheers!
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pirate
Jul 16, 2003, 9:54 PM
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Hi Shubs.
Okay I think some of these ideas are pretty good like Crag and some others.
Physical training will only get you so far, yes it is necessary however conditioning along with mental training is paramount.
If you really want to do alpine then consider the following suggestions (please note this is by no means exhaustive)
Get into physical shape.
Condition yourself. By this I mean take cold showers wear little outerwear when climbing (so you can get used to climbing cold)
He11 let your body heat up too by wearing too much gear.
Load yourself up with heavy gear when your doing things.
climb with freezing fingers etc etc.
Climb in your pack while it is loaded.
Run things out.
climb with lots of exposure
Climb in the dark.
Climb in the rain.
Climb in the snow.
Climb everything in your boots (the ones you would use on your trip)
Climb while starving.
Climb while sleep deprived.
Climb while dehydrated.
Look what Im getting at is get used to the type of conditions and circumstances youll need to perform in. Make it uncomfortable for yourself.
like wrap yourself in a tarp and sleep in the rain wearing only your fleeces. (you'll have to continually move around so the bloody ground doesn't suck all your heat out) You have to learn how to survive in the most awefull conditions.
Get used to suffering
Then of course dont even think about setting out on an adventure until you can back it up with the technical skills required
So get out there and practice and reap the rewards of suffering on a big mountain someday.
Again this is just my opinion.......in my experience always expect something to go wrong on your trip and always be prepared to go through an epic on every trip. ( an alpine trip without an epic is more the exception then the norm)
Now when your ready to hit the mountains pick something well within your ability and take it slow so you can live a long life of alpine.
cheers
Shawn :wink:
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Jul 16, 2003, 10:58 PM
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To simulate an alpine climb, you should try drinking a bottle of wine, then going for a run to the crags and soloing 5.4. I'm not even kidding.
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