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Aid practice at E-Rock, Tx.
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timstich


Jul 16, 2003, 2:00 PM
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Aid practice at E-Rock, Tx.
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Morning Big Walruses,

Realized the other day that, much like the wierd girl who can't find the right Goth guy to date, there was another climber I knew who wanted to do some aid practice in my town. I used to climb with him all of the time, he leading trad and me toproping the routes. We got together at a local sport crag once to go over using the Frog system and he jugged a fixed line I rigged a few times and so did I. Being satisfied with the relative efficiency of my jugging setup, I called it good.

This Saturday we plan to drive out to E-Rock early and do a variety of things. We plan to aid some hard crack systems that are not popular so we can actually do some aid climbing. The rest of the time we plan to set up a 250 ft. static line from a high anchor point on the backside of the Main Dome and do some bag hauling, rope jugging with a load, and various other things that strike our fancy. We plan to brave hot sun, drink lots of fluids with electrolytes, and in general just deal with the heat as if we could not retreat. That's my plan, actually. Of course we'll negociate the details.

Most of the aiding I have done in the past was pure bolt ladder aiding. A few short weekends ago I did my first gear aid climbs. I did two leads that encorporated both free and aid. I led a 5.10 crack system called Eat and Bush Crack. I love Eat, and feel like I could pink it any day. But the reason I chose it was that it is not simply one crack. I got a chance to try a traverse a few feet to the right, which was surprisingly tricky. Bush Crack is straight as a rail, so that one was less futzy. Did both leads with the two aider technique. This weekend will switch to four aiders. I didn't like the BD aiders, since each step is staggered. I think I would enjoy the steps being in a straight line stacked one on top of the other.

Anyway, that's what we are up to. Not really sure I want/need to do any big walls this decade, but I would like to get some of the skills. Plus, my friend really wants to do this stuff, so I'm happy to belay him and tell him what little I know. Will not speculate on what I don't and certainly won't make sh*t up like my last partner did. Glad you walruses are here to gab with. I think I'll purchase an aid video as well. Seems like a good investment.

Stich


scottcody


Jul 16, 2003, 3:22 PM
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Re: Aid practice at E-Rock, Tx. [In reply to]
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Tim,
Not sure of the point of your post, but I'm glad to see that people are learn to aid. I think it is a good skill to have.

If you are interested in Big walling, I would recommend the John Long, John Midendorff (Spelling??) book "Big Walls", as well as The freedom of the hills book. Both are a good place to START. And will give you a good idea of what to expect. Some good internet resources include PTPP's stuff (personal opinions aside, he does have some good beta) where is a good link to that:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/....php?t=23226&start=3
The fish web site has good beta, Russ is almost funnier to read than PTPP:
http://www.fishproducts.com/howto/howto.html
And SuperTopo seems to the be all end all for route topo's, but he doesn't have any for Zion... yet??? Anyone know if Mr. Mac. has something in the works? Here the earl for that:
http://www.supertopo.com/

And finally,
I am looking to go to Zion this coming spring and get on Spaceshot and/or Moonlight, let me know if you think you might be interested.


timstich


Jul 16, 2003, 4:05 PM
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Re: Aid practice at E-Rock, Tx. [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Tim,
Not sure of the point of your post, but I'm glad to see that people are learn to aid. I think it is a good skill to have.

The point was just to spew and say hello. Spewing is different than spraying, incidentally. It's like vomitting.


In reply to:
If you are interested in Big walling, I would recommend the John Long, John Midendorff (Spelling??) book "Big Walls", as well as The freedom of the hills book...

Hmm. Let's go down the list. Made no less than five attempts to buy Middendorf's book. Held in hand probably three times. Actually intended to purchase during the times of lack of availability. Sense a pattern there.

Have well read copy of Freedom of the Hills. Reread aiding section before last outing. Will reread again before Saturday for grins.

Visited Russ Walling's site frequently, read beta, looked at gear, sent actually $$ to encourage Russ to finish out Russian Aider design and put into production, etc. Love going there. "Born Under a Bad Sign" TR with Walt Shipley a classic tale. "Uh-oh...eye popped out." Still cracks me up.

Visited SuperTopo a few times. Yeah, would definitely purchase topos if intended to do routes. Nice.

Read lots of PTPP's stuff. Enjoy

In reply to:
And finally,
I am looking to go to Zion this coming spring and get on Spaceshot and/or Moonlight, let me know if you think you might be interested.

Thanks for the invite, but won't be able to go. PM me and I'll give you the names of four other guys I climb with, like a lot, and would trust. These are guys I could spend multiple days hanging it out with and not want to kill or kill myself. They have years of multipitch experience and are all progressing into aid. Some have planned trips already and not gone. Not sure each guy's personal story, but can find out.

I always knew this was similar to dating. Heh heh.

-Stich


epic_ed


Jul 16, 2003, 4:46 PM
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Re: Aid practice at E-Rock, Tx. [In reply to]
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Judging from your profile pic, and based on your previous caving experience (all cavers are a little nuts), I'd say you have just the right kind of mental instability to enjoy and excel at aid climbing. Welcome to the club. The real question, now, is -- how much do you like to suffer?

Have fun this weekend and don't get too baked (from a temperature perspective; not necessairly from an inebriation standpoint. get as baked as necessary in that regard).

Ed


timstich


Jul 16, 2003, 6:26 PM
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Re: Aid practice at E-Rock, Tx. [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Judging from your profile pic, and based on your previous caving experience (all cavers are a little nuts), I'd say you have just the right kind of mental instability to enjoy and excel at aid climbing. Welcome to the club. The real question, now, is -- how much do you like to suffer?

Have fun this weekend and don't get too baked (from a temperature perspective; not necessairly from an inebriation standpoint. get as baked as necessary in that regard).

Ed

Good advice there, Ed. I plan on bringing Gatorade, salt tablets, Cytomax, whatever I can get plus tons of water. Gotta have some weight to test hauls and make the hike in as miserable as possible. Will bitch humorously or not at all. Silent, dignified suffering is for twits.


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