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sid_rock
Jul 21, 2003, 3:19 AM
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To the bikers among us:
I have gotten seriously into biking the past year. I started off with the SPIN class in the gym and then graduated to biking in the paved trails around town in my old mountain bike. However, this bike is beginning to hold me back. I see other bikers in road bikes blowing past me, and I now want to even the playing field. Also, I plan on doing triathlons in the near future and I need a bike more suited for its 40 km biking component.
So, I am seriously contemplating blowing the rest of my savings on a road/triathlon bike. I prefer keeping the cost under US$750 (approx. CAD 1000).
Any recommendations?
PS: For those of you who will argue this has nothing to do with rock-climbing, I say... I want to bike so that I can lose weight, which, of course, will help my climbing :P
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tim
Jul 21, 2003, 3:34 AM
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Get a Surly Crosscheck. You'll never regret it and the price is right.
http://www.surlybikes.com/bikes/bikes.htm
I commute 30 miles to work (each way) on mine. Haven't lost as much weight as I thought I would, but my endurance is unreal... anyways, I've never met anyone who regretted picking one up. My friend Doug went to work in New Zealand for 6 months and his Cross Check was the only large object he took with him from San Francisco. Rode it all over the South Island for a week. I've seen countless couriers in DC with Surlys; they're cheap, sturdy, and basically foolproof. I highly recommend them.
I know this sounds like zealotry, but if you're asking what kind of a road bike to get, you probably don't want a purebred race machine. So get a pair of kevlar-belted almost-slicks (Ritchey Speedmax tires are what I like to ride on -- work well off road but without any noticeable rolling resistance on asphalt) and a CrossCheck, and you will not be held back by your bike anymore. You probably should think about getting a pair of good-fitting bike shoes and clipless pedals, too. I ride my Surly on singletrack every so often, and I have a mountain bike which I occasionally race, so I chose to equip them both with Time pedals (the cheap but mud-shedding ATAC kind). Any old SPD-style pedals will do, of course, and the increase in efficiency is phenomenal. I like ATB shoes better cause I can walk around in them at work (I don't have to worry about wearing a suit, you see :-)).
Be sure and get whatever frame you buy big enough so you don't have to hunch. Some roadies are real masochists, but it doesn't help; a good description of how a bike really ought to fit is Grant Petersen's:
http://www.rivendellbicycles.com/html/rr_comfposition.html
I've found that doing as Grant suggests makes you faster and less likely to fatigue, as well as more comfortable. I am comfortable, but I also tend to drop everyone I meet when I'm riding to and from work, so it's not like I'm giving up a lot by relaxing my stance. Anyways, get a good frame and size it like Grant suggests. I think you'll be happy with a CrossCheck and it's about $700 (or at least, mine was). There are others like it -- cyclocross bikes are nice because of their relaxed geometry coupled with racing guts.
nb. You can always stick aero bars on it later. I was thinking about turning mine into a fixie (I almost never stop pedaling anyhow, just force of habit I guess) and putting a bullhorn bar on mine, in fact. I do suggest putting a 4-bolt stem on it if you do that. You'll torque the bar around too easily otherwise (I can make wreckage out of most road bikes I've seen).
In reply to: To the bikers among us: I have gotten seriously into biking the past year. I started off with the SPIN class in the gym and then graduated to biking in the paved trails around town in my old mountain bike. However, this bike is beginning to hold me back. I see other bikers in road bikes blowing past me, and I now want to even the playing field. Also, I plan on doing triathlons in the near future and I need a bike more suited for its 40 km biking component. So, I am seriously contemplating blowing the rest of my savings on a road/triathlon bike. I prefer keeping the cost under US$750 (approx. CAD 1000). Any recommendations? PS: For those of you who will argue this has nothing to do with rock-climbing, I say... I want to bike so that I can lose weight, which, of course, will help my climbing :P |
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tarzan420
Jul 21, 2003, 3:43 AM
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My road bike is an older cannondale touring bike that I picked up at a garage sale. While it's not a light, high-tech racing bike by any means, it sure beats the heck out of my mountain bike for road riding. I have used it for two triathalons, and have now added aero bars (but not until i stopped doing tris :roll: ) I don't really know about specific road bike manufacturers, cannondale and trek are the only two that really come to mind.
My advice - start cheap - look in garage sales, even on ebay. Once you have a basic bike you can upgrade components as you like, or confirm that it's something you want to invest your savings in. www.performancebike.com used to have a decent deal on a full road bike, but now it's pretty pricey. Also, for triathalons, A lot of folks use 650 wheels instead of 700. (numbers have to do with wheel circumference I think).
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sid_rock
Jul 21, 2003, 4:03 AM
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Tim,
Thanks for the advice. I found a couple of Surly dealers close-by and I plan on checking them out.
Sid
PS: I've been using the clipless for a while now, and the increase in efficiency is phenominal. However, it can be a bitch doing steep hills on while clipped in...
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roughster
Jul 21, 2003, 4:33 AM
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I would also suggest checking out Specialized and/or Felts. Both have lower end models in your price range and will offer you a true road bike that is current in design and technology. I bought the Specialized Allez Elite (got it for $999) and I have already done a century on it, as well as used if for the bike leg in a 1/2 Ironman. I will be riding it next year when I do my 1st Full Ironman as well. The plus side of going with one of the ones listed above, it is a fairly easy adaptation to put it into a usuable Tri-Bike.
Laugh now, but if you really get into cycling, all roads leads to triathlons :)
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skiorclimb
Jul 21, 2003, 4:50 AM
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I ride a cannondale R1000. I love it. It was a little out of the price range you listed but well worth the extra cash. Alot of people who seriously compete get new bikes every season. If you're not in a rush you may want to look for a used bike, or a leftover.
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nobody
Jul 21, 2003, 6:29 AM
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NOOooo! Don't buy a cheap bike planning to upgrade it! Once you're ready to upgrade, sell the cheap bike and buy a good one. Cheap bikes are cheap to the core and are rarely worth upgrading.
Yes, Specialized and Felt are good - I'd give the advantage to Felt on the lower-end models. Also look into Tomasso, Iron Horse and Mongoose. Those three are often available for big discounts.
However, I'd have to say that the best deal for a new bike is, hands down, Leaderbikeusa.com. I just went through this whole bike shopping thing and was astounded at the deal I got from them. I don't know how they are doing it... there is nothing cheap hiding out in the parts selection, and a full bike -- with a full carbon fork (yes, carbon steerer) with crankarms, stem, h-bars all custom sized, and they might even throw in the seat of your choice for you -- is significantly less than the parts alone cost from anyone else (before the frame and fork).
But, for $750, I'd recommend buying used, or just putting slicks on your mtb. :lol:
edit: Buy a Surly and you're paying for the name, not the bike. Compare parts specs, and you'll see that this is true, not an argument.
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roughster
Jul 21, 2003, 6:59 AM
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Nobody: relax, I am not telling him to go cheap and upgrade it, I am saying that since he is doing tris, he might as well get a road bike that has some semblance of a tri-bike. With a Specializes Allez (I think sport is the next step below Elite) or the Felt 650 (? can't remember exact model ##) all he would have to do is by a pair of short aerobars and it is a feasible tribike with the versatility and slightly extra comfort of a road bike for a reasonable price.
If hes looking to spend ~$700 now, I don't think he'll be looking to spend the $2000-$3000+ for a swag full time Tri-Bike any time soon.
All I can say is that I was almost in the identical situation (doing tris on my mtn bike and getting pissed watching guys blow by me like nothing due to the equipment). I have not had one once of buyers regret with my Specialized and the blowing by has stopped cold :) I can average 20+ mph for over 50 miles on most courses (even hilly ones), which generally gives me pretty good bike splits. He won't be hurting himself at all with a Specialized.
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dalai
Jul 21, 2003, 7:28 AM
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Good work on the Tri's roughster. Since my elbows went in 98, I have also been doing Ironman triathlons, the Australian Ironman in 2000, New Zealand in March 2003 (missed out on qualifying for Hawaii by 3 minutes and 15 seconds!) and short course tri's in between.
As for bikes sid_rock, shopping around second hand would probably be your best bet. In regards to sizing, go into a good store first to fit you to the correct sized frame which is critical.
For models - Giant bikes are usually really good value for money. I am not too sure otherwise what prices for bikes are in the States.
Components, try not to go below Shimano 105, ultegra is you can afford it.
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roughster
Jul 21, 2003, 8:12 AM
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dalai:
Aye, tris are where its it at :) I have spent more time training for tris this last year than I have for climbing, and that says something!
Just as addicting as climbing, maybe even moreso, as you can always mix up the training between the swim/bike/run for days your motivation is lagging.
But the good thing is tris get you in shape for climbing too so its all good! I am really looking forward to my 1st full IM. I almost signed up for Vineman, but not quite sure my knees are ready for it. Doc says I need to get some orthodics for my legs as my left is1/4" longer than my right and he thinks that is agrevating my knees. Worse yet, I also under-pronate (outside foot wear pattern), so he wants to hook me up like Forrest Gump ;) Ok maybe not that bad, but my feet will be robo-feet by the time he is doen with me ;)
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dalai
Jul 21, 2003, 8:25 AM
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Once you get your feet and knees sorted, definitely do an Ironman. It would have to rate as one of the most amazing days of my life!!
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fruityarse
Jul 21, 2003, 9:27 AM
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Make sure you sort out what you want your bike for - road riding, commuting, racing or tris.
That way you can perhaps get a hybrid (great for commuting, comfy) or a full on lean and mean road bike to mash the gears away....
8)
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granite_grrl
Jul 21, 2003, 12:36 PM
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Go to the bike store, find some bikes in your price range, and then ride them. Then ride some more, then talk with the salesman some more and have him tell you about the bikes (or do that before riding, doesn't matter). If it's your first road bike you have to know what you like to ride before you buy. You don't want to buy something off the internet and then you sit there wishing that you had a bigger frame, shorter stem, different saddle, upgraded to the other componant set, etc. If you go to a good bike store these guys are not not out to scam you, they will give you as much info as they can. If they can't it's not a store that's worth dealing with.
That being said there's a few things that I thought about when getting my first road bike a couple months ago. Price vs. componants: I ride in hilly areas, I wanted a 9-speed rear cassett, that ment minimum Tiagra, I got a full Tiagra setup on my bike. Clipless pedals: highly recomemded, but even entry level bikes should come with these. Weight: I ride XC mountain bikes usually, my mtb is fairly light, I was not going to get a road bike heavier than my mtb bike.
So I finally got a DeVinci Apex for $1100 cdn. I was also looking at the Giant OCR 2, which was a good price.
Another note: I have a mtn bike, a road bike and a commuting bike. I won't take the mtn bike to work beacause of theft, and it's hard to carry a lot on your back with a road bike. The commuting bike I don't care what happens to it. I have ridden the road bike to work when the commuter has had flats, if I rode it on a regular basis I think I would get paniers for it.
PS- The road bike feels super fast, it's great to have it on those days I can't hit the trails.
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furryfrisbee
Jul 21, 2003, 12:47 PM
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Sid_rock, you need to ask them at the bike shop that you will be using. If you're going to race, you will have a bike shop you use often. Everyone on here may mean well, but how many know how serious you are about the racing? About your size (height and weight), age, current fitness level. Two years ago I was racing on the road and the track. I currently own six bikes, each for a specific purpose. I have a Gary Fisher Paragon I converted into a commuter bike (road gears and bar, and a BOB trailer), a GT Zaskar MTB, a GT track bike, a GT Edge w/Dura Ace for racing, a GT Edge w/Ultegra setup for time trials (would be great for tris), and a KHS Flite 800 for long rides (853 steel, because I'm 42 and those aluminium bikes beat you up on long rides). Good luck with it!
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sid_rock
Jul 21, 2003, 1:37 PM
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Holy Crap!!! Who know so many rock climbers were hard-core bicyclists also?
So much good advice... I confused... :D
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nobody
Jul 21, 2003, 3:18 PM
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Roughster, I was actually referring to Tarzan's advice to buy cheap, then upgrade parts.
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montgomerywick
Jul 21, 2003, 3:30 PM
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CERVELO...one of best tri-bikes out there and canadian as well...team CSC rides them now...
you cannot buy spit for $750...but you could get cervelo's Soloist for about $1000...
I have the p2k=great bike; have buds that ride the p3...
/shameless plug
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sid_rock
Jul 21, 2003, 3:41 PM
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In reply to: CERVELO...one of best tri-bikes out there and canadian as well...team CSC rides them now... you cannot buy spit for $750...but you could get cervelo's Soloist for about $1000... I have the p2k=great bike; have buds that ride the p3... /shameless plug
The Soloist is listed at CAD$2600 on cervelo.com, I definitely cannot afford that :-( Actually, all the bikes listed here are outside my range (which has now been bumped up to CAD$1250).
http://www.cervelo.com/text-prices-can.html
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gretchino
Jul 21, 2003, 3:49 PM
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I'm by no means a cyclist but my boyfriend is. He's getting more and more into Tri's, but will always be a roadie at heart. He and all of his cycling buddies ride Litespeeds. I dnn't know the prices off the top of my head, but you may be able to buy a used one...From what I've heard, they are amazing bikes. Good luck!
http://www.litespeed.com
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alwaysforward
Jul 21, 2003, 3:51 PM
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Take a look at Giant. Because they actually make their own frames, along with many other companies, they can beat out companies like Specialized etc. based on value. The TCR series have several models in your pricerange with solid components.
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apolobamba
Jul 21, 2003, 4:19 PM
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For the money you are talking about, you buy a used bike. Get sized at a bike store and begin looking on the web. Be careful of bikes that have been put through the mill but there are a lot of good bikes out there. I remember seeing alot good deals in tri-clubs and bicycling groups.
http://www.velocebicycles.com/pages/usedbikes.htm
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therelic
Jul 21, 2003, 5:15 PM
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Sid,
Lots of interesting and worthwhile opinions given here on what you need for a bike. If you are really serious about riding competitively and want to do well I'll give you about one-half cents worth of my 2 cent opinion. First I raced for 15 years and when I was in top shape I trained 500+ miles/week. Mostly I would ride and still ride the longest, steepest mountain roads I can find. These days I just ride for fun rather than mashing my body into oblivion like I used to.
If I was still racing and going to make anything more than a subtle change in my bike or position I would get advice from a qualified trainer such as Chris Carmichael. I am not going to try to tell you what you need for a bike because you need a bike for time-trialing and I want one for climbing. What I can tell you is the bicycles frame is the starting point as you can always upgrade/change the components. As far as what frame you need I recommend talking to a qualified trainer/coach who has proven results. When you start training expect your position to change becoming more efficient and aerodynamic over time as your body gets used to the riding. If you really want to go fast you should again have that qualified trainer for making these adjustments. Another reason to do a session with the qualified trainer is to not start out with improper technique. Bad form can cause injury or will at least slow you down and, ingrained bad form is difficult to change.
Oh, one last thing. Yes, riding will help your climbing. Just be sure to keep working on the upper body.
Bill
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sid_rock
Jul 21, 2003, 5:42 PM
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Impulse Buy Alert
So I went to the local bike store (Cyclepath) during lunch to size road bikes and test ride them. I rode the 2003 Specialized Allez Sport, loved it, and landed up buying it. Cost me CAD$1250 (including a nice set of clipless pedals).
A bit implusive I suppose, given that I was meaning to test ride a whole other bunch of bikes (Felt, Trek, Cannondale, Surly), but oh well it's done now... :-)
I'm biking to the beach this weekend, baby!
http://www.specialized.com/...es/allez_sport_d.jpg
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