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imaclima
Jul 21, 2003, 3:30 PM
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Registered: Jul 4, 2003
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My partner and I are heading to the New tuesday the 22 through thursday the 24, but the weather looks a little crappy. Any locals or frequent visitors to the area that could give beta on where its dry to climb in the rain or what dries quickly after rain (around 5.9 and 5.10) would be a great help.
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davidcollins
Jul 21, 2003, 3:46 PM
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Registered: Aug 20, 2002
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In reply to: My partner and I are heading to the New tuesday the 22 through thursday the 24, but the weather looks a little crappy. Any locals or frequent visitors to the area that could give beta on where its dry to climb in the rain or what dries quickly after rain (around 5.9 and 5.10) would be a great help.
Are you looking for sport or trad? There are not many sport routes at the New in the 5.10a or under range to begin with. However, Rico Suave (5.10a) at Kaymoor usually stays dry during rain. Luckily the rock at the New dries pretty fast. I've climbed at the Kaymoor slabs at Endless Wall (a few bolted 9s and 10s) just a few hours after a rain shower and it was fine. The Bridge Buttress would also be a good choice but there no bolted leads in your range although it is easy to set up topropes. the situation at Junkyard is similar although it dries a bit more slowly than the Bridge area. Lastly there are hard sport routes (12 and up) at the Hole at Kaymoor and elsewhere that are preclipped beyond the first couple of bolts. People occasionally just lead those as far as they can go and then lower.
David
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jman
Jul 21, 2003, 4:48 PM
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Registered: May 28, 2002
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The folks at the old Blue Ridge Outfitters (can't remember the new name of the place) have a list of places that stay dry. Can't remember all the spots listed but Rico Sauve Buttress at the Kaymore area was definitely on the list.
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bumblie
Jul 21, 2003, 5:21 PM
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Waterstone is the new name. Also ask Roger.
The Rico area has a number of climbs that stay dry. Four 5.10 sport routes, a 5.7 trad and a 5.10 trad. around the corner is nice 5.9 crack. It's a bit committing and the 2nd has to lower off a single shunt. Scary :(
High times at the Bridge area stays dry - 10.c crack. Eats up gear. Only 40'.
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markc
Jul 21, 2003, 7:12 PM
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Registered: Jan 21, 2003
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There have been some good suggestions. I know I spent a good bit of a wet week at Rico Suave and neighboring climbs. When the sun finally came out, several climbs at Junkyard were dry by mid-morning. If you have a copy of the Thompson guide (or if you have access to a copy), look for routes with umbrellas. Sadly, a lot of the routes that stay dry are the overhung climbs out of my range!
mark
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uncle_big_green
Jul 21, 2003, 7:39 PM
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Registered: May 15, 2002
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The following climbs "should" stay dry in the rain. I remember when all of my friends went home one year 'cause they didn't believe me when I told them there were dry climbs. All friends except the one who climbed about 8 routes with me that day, that is.
I'm sure I'm forgetting some, but here ya go.
Bridge Buttress:
Handsome and Well Hung (11- trad, shut anchors)
High Times (10 trad)
Some 12 or 12- sport climb immediately to the right of HT sharing the same anchors.
The dihedral to the left of High Times that goes at 9 to the slings.
Whatever Wall has Exoduster (Endless?)
Exoduster (10- sport)
The 5.9 Dihedral to the rt. of Exoduster (trad and you can use Exo's anchors if the top is wet)
There is a short trad 10 around the corner to the left of these (not Autumn Fire)
The fatter guidebook has an umbrella symbol for climbs that generally stay dry in the rain. Sorry for not giving more info, but I'm at work and don't have my guides and I'm getting senile.
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