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dilligaf
Aug 12, 2003, 3:44 PM
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My climbing partner gets really sketched out with the runouts on some of the routes out there and I think if I get him some protection (cams) I think he would be more comfortable with climbing. Anybody now a good set of cams to take out there?
Thanks in advance for any input.
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alpnclmbr1
Aug 12, 2003, 4:24 PM
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I have a hard time thinking that could actually be helpfull. There are not many places for gear as I recall. In addition, on the lower angle easier routes it could actually be dangerous as far as rockfall due to the poor quality rock.
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dilligaf
Aug 12, 2003, 4:33 PM
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I think the same way but the climbs we will be getting on are not near the level that we would be pushing out limits but he has a mental crux thing going when he gets real run out, and just him knowing that he has a cam or 2 on him will help him climb without the extra fear.
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climbersam
Aug 12, 2003, 4:42 PM
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Check out the Black Diamond Fifi Hook i think it is... You can hook it on thin ledges for a rest. May help your mental game.
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dilligaf
Aug 12, 2003, 4:49 PM
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I really think that will help him, thanks for the info, any other ideas are certainly welcome as well.
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bsperes
Aug 12, 2003, 4:53 PM
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rock and ice did a potero topo within that last couple years. it listed specific cams and maybe specific nut for certain routes. check it out.
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apolobamba
Aug 12, 2003, 4:59 PM
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using fifi hook to rest in the middle of a run out?
This sounds like a bad idea to me.
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nobody
Aug 12, 2003, 5:48 PM
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In reply to: Check out the Black Diamond Fifi Hook i think it is... You can hook it on thin ledges for a rest.
Fifi?
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jt512
Aug 12, 2003, 6:09 PM
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In reply to: I think the same way but the climbs we will be getting on are not near the level that we would be pushing out limits but he has a mental crux thing going when he gets real run out, and just him knowing that he has a cam or 2 on him will help him climb without the extra fear.
Sounds like he needs to find another sport.
-Jay
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leaverbiner
Aug 12, 2003, 6:36 PM
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Runout at Potrero? You say you aren't pushing your limits either . . . then I highly doubt you will be encountering any runout at Potrero . . . the lowest graded thing that approched runout at Potrero was an 11 (Gringo Disco) . . . and this is from a person used to the New River Gorge's "well" bolted routes. . . . nearly everything I got on was "well" bolted . . . there were a few 12's that I thought could have used a bolt here or there, but not usually anywhere near the crux of the climb.
It sounds to me like your buddy needs to get over the fear . . . if you keep babying him on these sport routes it will be a problem for all his climbing to come . . . learn to trust you gear and your belayer . . . soon he will realize that when he's climbing sport routes, he is as safe as he will get while climbing.
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alpnclmbr1
Aug 12, 2003, 6:53 PM
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Potrero is not runout. Resting on a fifi hook if it is runout would be bad. In general I wouldn't want to fall on the lower angle routes at potrero, to much cactus and loose rock. If he really has to carry some cams as a security blanket, then I would say to use aliens. But I wouldn't advise actually hanging on them.
Potrero is a lot of fun, particularly on the 11- and up routes.
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dilligaf
Aug 12, 2003, 8:33 PM
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I agree, with most of what your saying, he used to be very scared of heights. From what I remember The Chico spire has a good 30ft. runout on it, its not hard climbing by any means, I've down it plenty of times, but it is about 30ft. between bolts unless someone has put in another bolt since last november. I think compared to the routes we climb here, this route is very exposed, thats what is getting to him. I think if he knows he has a cam or something on his harness he will not be as reluctant to lead the route.
Thanks for the input.
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rockvoyager
Aug 12, 2003, 9:12 PM
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In reply to: I agree, with most of what your saying, he used to be very scared of heights. From what I remember The Chico spire has a good 30ft. runout on it, its not hard climbing by any means, I've down it plenty of times, but it is about 30ft. between bolts unless someone has put in another bolt since last november. I think compared to the routes we climb here, this route is very exposed, thats what is getting to him. I think if he knows he has a cam or something on his harness he will not be as reluctant to lead the route. Thanks for the input.
Yes, the spire is runout but most of the climbs aren't. In fact, I think it is just about as tightly bolted as Owens River Gorge. Pretty hard to get hurt unless you do something really dumb. One thing that helps me is to jump on the sharp end and take a few lead falls when my head is hijacking my body.
I spent a couple of weeks there last winter. Great place but be aware of falling rock.
Brad
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