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timstich
Sep 8, 2003, 2:44 PM
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Now that would be bomber. A variety of scissors jack style pieces with a ratcheting action to keep it from loosening and the ability to tighten when pulled on. Not good for expando flakes, of course. Place, yank, twist, clip. So who's going to design them then?
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traddad
Sep 8, 2003, 3:29 PM
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I think there's something like this out there, only w/o the ratchet. A sort of hinged piece where the pull of the runner causes it to open wider. Would rather have a big bro.
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passthepitonspete
Sep 8, 2003, 4:06 PM
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I sure could have used something like that on Excalibur. There was this very unusual geometry whereby two points of rock came together to form a "crack". It was unprotectable and I had to free climb it with no pro.
We were thinking about a two-cam friend with indents in the lobes.
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timstich
Sep 8, 2003, 4:14 PM
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In reply to: I think there's something like this out there, only w/o the ratchet. A sort of hinged piece where the pull of the runner causes it to open wider. Would rather have a big bro.
Not talking about wide pro specifically - all ranges, from 1'2 inch on up. But the larger sizes would be too heavy I think. Big bro type pro be good.
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traddad
Sep 8, 2003, 5:00 PM
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At one time I was contemplating the design of a piece of pro that would use the concept of a bicycle wheel quick release to expand metal wedges into a crack. The expansion range could be adjusted using a nut just like the tightness of a quick release skewer can be adjusted. Range of expansion would be maybe only 1 cm, but it would be light and simple.
Copyright 2003 :lol:
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quickclips
Sep 8, 2003, 5:34 PM
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I'm actually in the process of designing something like that for my senior design. I'm planning on making some prototypes soon and test them. I'll post something when I do.
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crackaddict
Sep 8, 2003, 6:04 PM
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In reply to: I'm actually in the process of designing something like that for my senior design. I'm planning on making some prototypes soon and test them. I'll post something when I do.
Hmmm!!!
Sounds like you gave this guy a good idea for his senior design traddad.
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quickclips
Sep 9, 2003, 5:15 PM
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Actually I've been working on it for a while now (a year), I'm just saving it for my senior design class. Mine isn't ratcheting though, its still spring loaded, and multi directional. Right now I just need to save up some money and have a prototype made.
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kyhangdog
Sep 9, 2003, 6:11 PM
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Reminds me of the old Perrin Wedge.
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