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sync
Sep 11, 2003, 3:11 AM
Post #1 of 3
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Registered: Aug 22, 2003
Posts: 125
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In less than two weeks I'll be heading off to Boulder, CO for a long weekend to visit a good friend. He's promised to take me climbing and will probably at least hit something in the Flatirons, and possibly elsewhere in the area.
I've only really climbed at Devil's Lake and have been able to climb mostly 5.4-5.5, though I've taken a few stabs at 5.7-5.8 (made it once, but only after an enormous effort). I've heard that the Quartzite here is especially slippery and as a result the ratings are sandbagged here at the Lake.
What kind of rock should I expect to encounter in the Boulder area and will I find that I can climb harder grades out there?
I'm definitely excited about getting out there though, so I know I'll have a great time regardless. :D
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herm
Sep 11, 2003, 3:14 AM
Post #2 of 3
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Registered: Aug 26, 2003
Posts: 498
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I've heard too that Devil's lake has sandbagg ratings, but climbing on unfamiliar rock, you will be lucky if you find that you can do better.
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reno
Sep 11, 2003, 3:40 AM
Post #3 of 3
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Registered: Oct 30, 2001
Posts: 18283
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It kinda depends on what, exactly, you will be climbing.
I did the Direct East Face of the First Flatiron about three weeks after I moved to Colorado. It was a great route, but a few things to consider:
1. The hike in is somewhat long, and if you are not acclimated or in really good shape, it will take a fair effort.
2. I spent the past 6 years in Atlanta, GA, and was comfortable leading trad routes up to 5.9 or so. The Direct East Face is a 10 pitch (usually) 5.6s route. I found it to be a challenge, but certainly within my limits.
3. Do not be afraid to run it out a ways on the Flatirons. DEF has two large eyebolts on the first pitch, with a place for a .75 cam. That's it for the whole pitch... all 60 meters of it. Second pitch wasn't much better for gear... a #9 stopper, a .5 cam, and a 1.5 cam. Three pieces of gear in a full rope length pitch will un-nerve a lot of people.
4. The run-out is what made the climb so edgy for me... The climbing itself is a lot of low angle friction/slab climbing. Not hard, and I know people that have done it in tennis shoes, but it certainly made me nervous.
5. The view and exposure on the ridge at the top is worth it. Just freaking awesome.
Never been to Devil's Lake... sorry.
Enjoy the climbing...
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