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"new" climbing in Vermont?
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xanx


Sep 11, 2003, 6:21 PM
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"new" climbing in Vermont?  (North_America: United_States: North_Carolina: Central: Moores_Wall: The_North_End)
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over the summer i went on a lot of college trips up in New England and on the way to Middlebury i saw this apparently beautiful cliff. I haven't been able to find any references to it anywhere, so i was just wondering if it has been climbed or if anyone wants to check it out...

anyway it is located on Route 7 just south of the town of Brandon - it is right behind Otter Valley High School. It looks like a black and white striped cliff, but i'm not sure. It appeared to be about maybe a quarter mile away from the road? but clearly visible from Route 7 in either direction.

i'm just curious about this, i wonder if it is any good?


tradmanclimbs


Sep 11, 2003, 8:33 PM
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Re: "new" climbing in Vermont? [In reply to]
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I have looked at that cliff a 100 times at least on my way to the daks etc. and thought that it was probobly limestone? but it looks chossy as hell. That can often be decieving and it certainly warrents a closer look. I haven't figured out were to park without being in someones front yard?


redpiton


Sep 11, 2003, 8:44 PM
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Re: "new" climbing in Vermont? [In reply to]
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I have seen this cliff many times behind the school, but I have a feeling that it is not climbable. It is a limestone conglomerate I think, either that or a stained schist. It seems to be pretty overgrown as well. If you hear anything let me know.


tradmanclimbs


Sep 11, 2003, 9:16 PM
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Re: "new" climbing in Vermont? [In reply to]
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Anything is climeable but weather or not it is any fun or worth the effort is the real question?


sustainedclimber


Sep 19, 2003, 12:43 AM
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Re: "new" climbing in Vermont? [In reply to]
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I go to Middlebury College, and I too have driven by the cliff you guys are talking about many times. I've always wanted to check it out...but alas, I've never gotten any nearer to the rock, than the road. I think it's time to explore!


adamwvt


Sep 20, 2003, 4:09 AM
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Re: "new" climbing in Vermont? [In reply to]
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Bone Mountain?


cfnubbler


Nov 3, 2003, 5:58 PM
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Re: "new" climbing in Vermont? [In reply to]
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What about Bone Mountain? There is lots of good climbing there, if that's what you're asking about.

Smuggs also has a wealth of rock routes, many put up in recent years. These are real 1-4 pitch routes, not pebble wrestling by the road.

Many are not for the faint of heart, and many are excellent. Smuggs has been described as the "bastard child of Rumney and Cannon" because the rock is schist, but it definitely ain't sport climbing...

A selected list of outstanding Smuggs rock routes:

Ganesh- III, 5.11+, 4 pitches
True North- II, 5.11, 4 pitches
Jimmy Hat, 5.11a, 1 pitch
The Deep End III, 5.10++, 4 pitches
Fraggle Rock, 5.9+, 2 pitches
Better Living Through Chemistry, 5.9, 3 pitches
The Bean Stalker, 5.8, 2 pitches
Big Daddy Arete, 5.8+, 2 pitches

and much more....If you go bring a full rack, a helmet and a sense of adventure. These are alpinesque routes. Most will find the grades very solid in the old school east coast sense.

Have fun...

Nubbler


clmbng_addict


Nov 3, 2003, 6:28 PM
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Re: "new" climbing in Vermont? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
It is a limestone conglomerate I think, either that or a stained schist.

I could be wrong, but i believe most rock in vermont is greenschist.

I've never seen the place you're talking about, but i seem to remember someone from vermont once telling me there was climbing near Brandon. It's possible that i'm not remembering that correctly though. Or maybe Brandon was his cousin or something, i don't know.


ambler


Nov 3, 2003, 6:35 PM
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Re: "new" climbing in Vermont? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
A selected list of outstanding Smuggs rock routes:
Ganesh- III, 5.11+, 4 pitches
True North- II, 5.11, 4 pitches
Jimmy Hat, 5.11a, 1 pitch
The Deep End III, 5.10++, 4 pitches
Fraggle Rock, 5.9+, 2 pitches
Better Living Through Chemistry, 5.9, 3 pitches
The Bean Stalker, 5.8, 2 pitches
Big Daddy Arete, 5.8+, 2 pitches
I've seen descriptions of Ganesh and True North. Where might one find info about the other climbs listed?


adamwvt


Dec 23, 2003, 12:14 AM
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Re: "new" climbing in Vermont? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
What about Bone Mountain? There is lots of good climbing there, if that's what you're asking about.
I look at it all the time, and I haven't figured out how to get up there yet. The ice in the middle looks fat, like everything else now, there must be a bunch of fun lines up there. :P


adamwvt


May 2, 2004, 11:53 AM
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Re: "new" climbing in Vermont? [In reply to]
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I found Bone Mountain, its awesome. Ask me how.


ewilcox27


May 2, 2004, 2:22 PM
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Re: "new" climbing in Vermont? [In reply to]
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Hey
I go to Otter Valley Union High School, but all those cliffs out back are not climbable (shale?)......but if you wanted to check them out park in the school lot, or out in back of the school and there are running trails all in the woods out behind there that would at least get you close to the cliffs.
hope this helps
Emma


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