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Yosemite advice please.
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tobyhaughey


Sep 15, 2003, 1:30 PM
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Yosemite advice please.
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Hi all,

I am trying to organise an expedition to Yosemite next summer for a group of climbers from Southampton University, England. The climbers involved will not have had any big wall climbing experience though they will have done lots of multi-pitch climbing and will be familiar with basic big wall techniques. I am really looking for some advice as to what routes might be attainable for a group of about six motivated big wall novices. Also are there any good locations nearby that would offer themselves as suitable training grounds. We plan to be there for about three weeks which should enable us to carry out some build-up training as well as a few good routes. What month would people suggest I plan the exped for? Is it too hot/busy at certain periods?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, apologies if this post is in the wrong forum but this is my first visit to this site and i'm a bit of a spanner when it comes to computers.

Cheers,

Toby Haughey.


radistrad


Sep 16, 2003, 1:58 AM
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Toby, Check out http://www.supertopo.com.

First walls in the Valley are usually on Washingtons Column or on Leaning Tower. The Nose may be doable for you.

Free climbing is great in the Valley. If you can climb in the 5.10 range on cracks you will really rock. Be sure to check out Serenity Crack and Sons of Yesterday.

The Supertopo website covers far more than I can.
-Rob


epic_ed


Sep 16, 2003, 2:50 AM
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epic_ed


Sep 16, 2003, 3:02 AM
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The moderate free climbing in Yosemite is stellar and will keep you busy in the 5.7 - 5.10 range for the three weeks you are there. Unless something dramatically changes with your aid climbing ability and experience between now and then, I wouldn't even consider coming to the Valley to jump on a wall.

Secondly, I'd recommend you break up into smaller groups as you plan your climbs. You will find that teams of 2 or 3 will have a lot more fun and have many more options than all six of you deciding to tackle the same route the same day. I'd be pissed if I was behind you and you were all trying to climb the same route. That said, be prepared for large crowds on some of the moderate routes even during the week. If you climb 5.10+ you'll find the crowds and waiting lines smaller.

As for highlights, you might want to take a look at Royal Arches (15 pitches, 5.7), and Snake Dike (8 pitches, 5.7R) as a couple of "must dos."

The Supertopos "Yosemite Valley Free Climbs" book is mandatory reading. Not only a great bunch of topos, but a good over all orientation to the Valley and what types of weather to expect at different times of the year. The following link is to a sample of the book and includes the Snake Dike topo:

http://www.supertopo.com/topo_download.html

If you insist on making the trip your first foray into the realm of big wall climbing, I'd recommend focusing on one or two of the trade routes and start training and focusing on them immediately.

The S. Face of Washington Column is a do-able first wall, as is the W. Face of Leaning Tower. Same suggestion applies about breaking up in smaller groups. Do a search for info on those routes and you'll get an abundance of beta. There are also some excellent "practice" climbs in the Valley. I'll see if I can compile a list from previous threads and I'll post it here.

Ed


epic_ed


Sep 16, 2003, 3:13 AM
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apollodorus


Sep 16, 2003, 5:43 AM
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September and October are the best months to be in Yosemite Valley. The winter storms don't usually show up until November. In the spring, you have to worry about snow storms until the end of May. From then until the end of August, the Valley can be very hot. And crowded. And full of tourists.


bellatoris


Sep 16, 2003, 6:06 AM
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Hit it up in late Sep/Oct, and bring lots of quality beer for the rest of C4 (good English tradition). Then depending on how hard you all climb hit more remote crags that have several climbs on them. Weekends and the classics are almost always busy during the on season so skip them or get there very early.esp. if in 3 teams! Most of the walls face south so later is better. As are most of the classic long routes except the EBs of HC and MC and a few others. But incredible cragging abounds everywhere, and once you arrive at the Promised Land everything will make sense.
Have a great trip!


drunkenmonkey


Sep 16, 2003, 12:34 PM
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Toby

first thing is to read Chris Mc's Big Wall Supertopo from cover to cover, that will give you an insight into when and how and what to expect as well as what not to do after that you will be in a better position to ask more exacting questions.

take it easy

P :wink:


mrhardgrit


Sep 16, 2003, 3:34 PM
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Hi,

I was at Sheffield Uni and went with a bunch of mates to Yosemite who had never climbed there last year. Send me an email/PM if you want any further info.

Tom


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