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wandering_dusk
Sep 17, 2003, 7:45 PM
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I am aware that some of my problem is probably lack of technique, however I am currently wearing a pair of Boreal Lasers, and I find that when I am smearing real smooth rock they tend to slip off... Anyone else experience this or do you think it is primarily my technique?
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climber49er
Sep 17, 2003, 8:06 PM
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I've heard that Boreal rubber is not too good, however I have not used it myself.
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melekzek
Sep 17, 2003, 8:18 PM
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Before everybody starts yelling "boreal rubber sux" I should point out that lasers "were" something like miuras 10 years ago. Check any poster from early 90s, the hardcore climbers were using lasers (wg on action direct comes to my mind).
I am hobbit feeted so for me the wide fit of boreals rulez. My second climbing shoes were lasers, and I used them for a long time resoling many times. I cannot remember any "special" slipping behavior unique to lasers. Try cleaning your soles, i would suggest spit-and-rub against-each-other technique before some slippery climb.
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freudian
Sep 17, 2003, 8:37 PM
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I've owned two pairs of Laser's and i've never slipped with them. I have slipped on all my FiveTEN shoes.
Food for thought.
If you are having trouble sticking with your shoes, think about your technique.
Andrew
In reply to: I am aware that some of my problem is probably lack of technique, however I am currently wearing a pair of Boreal Lasers, and I find that when I am smearing real smooth rock they tend to slip off... Anyone else experience this or do you think it is primarily my technique? |
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fredbob
Sep 17, 2003, 10:32 PM
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In reply to: Before everybody starts yelling "boreal rubber sux" I should point out that lasers "were" something like miuras 10 years ago. Check any poster from early 90s, the hardcore climbers were using lasers
Boreal has changed its rubber composition several times over the years, the most recent change being the "Fusion 3" rubber. Fusion 3 is harder and not as sticky as earlier Boreal rubber. I have worn lasers and other Boreal shoes since they first came out (since original Fire's). Fusion 3 simply sucks, OK? In the last few years, I was forced to take new shoes and have a C4 half-resole done. Recently, I switched shoes entirely (Evolve; the Rage is the best slipper I have ever used).
I would suggest that technique could be a factor, but would advise you to get a half resole. Boreal shoes fit me well and I liked them a lot, but the rubber made me switch. The Laser is a great shoe, the rubber IS the problem.
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pato
Sep 17, 2003, 10:55 PM
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it depends on the boreal rubber.
so...........the last boreal rubber is called fusion 3, it is a rubber made 3 years ago, but, during that 2 or 3 years, they changed a lot of times the mix (like 4 times) so not to create fusion 4, fusion 5, fuision 6, and fusion 7, they decided to leave it as fusion 3, but the latest boreal shoes will always have fusion 3, even though it's not the same fusion 3 of some months ago!!!
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bvb
Sep 18, 2003, 8:10 PM
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in thirty years of climbing, fusion 3 is simply the worst rubber i've ever encountered, and that includes eb's, several different brands of tennis shoes, and some beater sandals i bought in baja that used old, cut-up truck tires for soles.
it's beyond me why boreal continues to use fusion rubber. they used to produce what whas the gold standard for sticky rubber.
there must be something to the story that we are not hearing...
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freudian
Sep 18, 2003, 8:55 PM
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Maybe Fusion3 isn't as sticky as Stealth C4, however, there is a one huge problem with Stealth C4. The rubber wears out MUCH quicker than Fusion3.
Two of my main climbing parnters bought FiveTEN Mocasym shoes at the same time as me and their shoes wore through teh toe and underneath the toe to the leather in less than 3 months of climbing maybe 3 times a week. That's dispicable. My MOcasyms are acutally pretty much brand new still, but I didn't climb in them nearly as much as they did. My Laser2's Fusion3 rubber is still fine and they lasted 2 years before I wore through the toes, but still lots of sole left.
Andrew
In reply to: in thirty years of climbing, fusion 3 is simply the worst rubber i've ever encountered, and that includes eb's, several different brands of tennis shoes, and some beater sandals i bought in baja that used old, cut-up truck tires for soles. it's beyond me why boreal continues to use fusion rubber. they used to produce what whas the gold standard for sticky rubber. there must be something to the story that we are not hearing... |
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photon
Sep 18, 2003, 9:51 PM
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i've seen boreal lasers climb a lot of hard stuff from steep to slab
blaming gear for failure is not a good practice to get into
if the shoe fits wear it.
I do like the C4 rubber better but before I got the resole I didn't notice too much difference from the fusion to C4.
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curt
Sep 18, 2003, 9:53 PM
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In reply to: Maybe Fusion3 isn't as sticky as Stealth C4, however, there is a one huge problem with Stealth C4. The rubber wears out MUCH quicker than Fusion3. Two of my main climbing parnters bought FiveTEN Mocasym shoes at the same time as me and their shoes wore through teh toe and underneath the toe to the leather in less than 3 months of climbing maybe 3 times a week. That's dispicable. My MOcasyms are acutally pretty much brand new still, but I didn't climb in them nearly as much as they did. My Laser2's Fusion3 rubber is still fine and they lasted 2 years before I wore through the toes, but still lots of sole left. Andrew In reply to: in thirty years of climbing, fusion 3 is simply the worst rubber i've ever encountered, and that includes eb's, several different brands of tennis shoes, and some beater sandals i bought in baja that used old, cut-up truck tires for soles. it's beyond me why boreal continues to use fusion rubber. they used to produce what whas the gold standard for sticky rubber. there must be something to the story that we are not hearing...
High performance tires for your car wear out much faster too--but they perform much better, in terms of traction. So, there is some trade off. however, my C4 soled shoes seem to last quite a while. I would say that I get about 1 year of regular weekend use from a pair.
Curt
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beyond_gravity
Sep 19, 2003, 12:50 AM
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anyone who tells you Fusion 3 sticks just as good as any other rubber is smoking the wrong bush.
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hillbilly
Mar 7, 2006, 2:41 PM
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Howdy, Joshua Tree deja vu. the nick name confusion rubber for boreal should say it all.
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danieladaniela
Mar 23, 2006, 10:12 AM
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Boreal Laser! I still love those! They were awesome in 95 or 96 or so when they first appeared, and I'm sure the rubber improved along the years. Before I go to look for them and kiss them once again (yes I still have them) let me add that perhaps it's not only technique, sometimes a good shoe is just shaped differently from your foot. Only partial and limited solution that I know of is, try a lot of shoes in a lot of shops.
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jimdavis
Mar 23, 2006, 11:56 AM
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boreal rubber sucks ass, on top of that they screwed over all their retailers in North America about 2 years ago...which is why you don't see them in as many US shops anymore.
screw boreal, they have nothing to offer.
Jim
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tonloc
Mar 26, 2006, 8:12 AM
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me think boreal rubber bad...not stick to anything...me break boreal...
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overlord
Mar 27, 2006, 12:53 PM
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boreal rubber sucks. thats sad because they have some really good desigins.
and a friend of mine that had lasers threw them away. he hated them.
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