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soccer_fan
Sep 20, 2003, 11:59 PM
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I'm looking to add some smaller cams to my rack sometime this fall, and from what I've read on here so far is that Aliens are the best small cams around, with WC Zero's and Metolius TCU's being close seconds. I haven't heard much about DMM 3CU's - how do they stack up? Especially considering that they're a good deal cheaper than Zero's or Aliens.
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blindslap
Sep 21, 2003, 1:15 AM
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the DMM 3cu's are great in the larger sizes. I have the full set and love every one except the smallest (purple) i'll probably get metolius this winter
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soccer_fan
Sep 21, 2003, 2:43 AM
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What don't you like about the purple one?
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soccer_fan
Sep 21, 2003, 4:20 AM
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How much better are Aliens compared to DMM 3CU's?
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desertclimber
Sep 21, 2003, 4:20 AM
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Being the desert crack addict that I am *grin*, I have lots of smaller gear. But, speaking of just the Aliens, Metolius TCU's and WC Zero's... They all have their place at times, but I like to mix them up. The Zero's have a little less strength, but almost make thin cracks casual!!! They have a groovy guide for the trigger and still remain very flexible. I grew up climbing with the Metolius TCU's, and I have a fondness for them- but they don't fit into as many places. Flexibility and four cams makes the Aliens super sexy. If the trigger sheath ever freys and lets loose on an Alien, pray you have two cleaning tools to get it out, since it controls ALL the cams together. The WC Zeros have a way narrow profile- the best of all three, and they have four cams, too! If you want your set to flow into the larger sizes, Metolius does that well, and the full set of Aliens sizes up to a couple inches. The WC Zeros stop at the #6, and that's not even a .5 Camalot size! If you need to save money, buy the DMM's or the like. When each of them is in YOUR hand at the climbing shop, which FEELS best to you? Just remember you will be the one placing them! The physics that keep your arse off the deck when you fall remains the same for each.
Go climbing with a couple people who own the different types, and you may have a better idea of what you might want to purchase.
$$ Cha-ching!
*grin*
Ian.
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one900johnnyk
Sep 21, 2003, 1:40 PM
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aliens are better but i climb on dmm 3cu's and like them a lot. they are very solid and make me feel safer than any other cam on my rack, but id on't have any aliens on my rack... if you're worried about price and want a cam with three lobes in that size range, get the dmm's....
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highlander
Sep 21, 2003, 4:14 PM
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I would not buy DMM cams unless you don't plan on using them much. They are not very durable from what I have seen. If I have a partner that has DMM cams, I tell them to leave them at home because I won't use them. Aliens, Metolius TCU's and Zeros are great. I love my aliens.
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pico23
Sep 22, 2003, 6:10 AM
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In reply to: How much better are Aliens compared to DMM 3CU's?
Different cracks different uses. but if I only had one set of small cams I'd have to go with aliens. I prefer the flexible stem which really cuts down on cam movement after placement. I also like the softer alloy used in the lobes. It doesn't last as long but it should hold better.
The TCUs have cam stops and place better on some types of cracks.
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soccer_fan
Sep 22, 2003, 8:03 PM
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How do the TCU's (3CU's) and Aliens stack up against say the 00 to 1.25 sized WC Tech Friends? Most of the placements where I climb aren't narrow pockets, and the difference in the width of the cams are only in the range of .1 to .15 inches (2mm to 4mm) - how much of a difference does that make??
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danl
Sep 22, 2003, 8:35 PM
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I own all three DMM Metolius and Aliens.
Aliens rule as an all around set. with Metolius as a close second. DMM 3cus are OK but you get a much better product with the other two especially in the smaller sizes.
I haven't handled the WC's but I would assume its a quality product. The feature set seems really nice.
If i were to get only one set from what i have seen it would be the Aliens SL
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highlander
Sep 22, 2003, 8:55 PM
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Registered: Mar 12, 2003
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I don't care for the WC tech friends in the small sizes. THey are two wide, and more difficult to place. If you going to buy WC get the Zeros in the small sizes.
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kirkbrode
Sep 24, 2003, 5:32 AM
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Registered: Jan 22, 2003
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their both good (but you should buy the Metolius TCUs)
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cgranite
Sep 24, 2003, 5:57 AM
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Registered: Aug 5, 2003
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I want to know which everyone prefers, between Aliens and metolius TCU's,...what works best. Money is no object. primarily for Yosemite granite.
Which one would you comfortably taking a run-out fall on.
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